CUCV Rocker panel no welding install

I bought a M1009 with out seeing it first and upon inspection found that both rocker panels were completly rotted through. On the drivers side somebody used a licence plate and duck tape with bondo over it as a repair!!

That's why (especially CUCV's) need to be previewed.

The FIX....

So i took this as a chance to do something I have wanted to try out for sometime. That is to use panel bonding rather than have them welded on.

All new cars use this technology and the epoxy is stronger than a weld PLUS it's water tight.

Also, since the trucks have a full frame the rockers are not load bearing and would support this type of repair.

Also, I am NOT a professional just a backyard body/paint guy.

First I cut out all the old rusted metal and bondo...

Thanks!

hndrsonj said:

That's why (especially CUCV's) need to be previewed.

Click to expand...

Uh yeah!

Most of the time I do but we all have that one time....

Related story. Back in the 80's I worked for a nationwide muffler firm. One day we had a guy come in with a stunning looking 340 Duster. He had just put this car together, stating he had to do quite a bit of floorboard work. It became fairly obvious when we got it on the rack, looked like the guy ripped of a sign shop for supplies. Several street signs were visible as was a good portion of a stop sign. Whats the term.....adaptive reuse

The FIX...

I bought a couple of the replacment rockers from a supplier, they almost all come from Taiwan and cost about $20.00. But they are not too bad. Only a few company's make them all the rest just re-name them and sell as their own.

Anyway, bottom is un-cut rocker and the top is after I trimed to fit onto my truck.

The Fix...

After some time of thinking and fitting I found that I would need to fit 3 sections together, the outside rocker and a back panel, then a section of the floor that butts against the backside of the rocker under the floor.

***You need this piece to angel down to the rocker so your door weather stripping has a channel to go in under the door sill plate.


So I cut 3 pieces and test fit them all with self tapping screws. These will also be used to hold the rockers and panels in place while the panel bond epoxy cures.

The FIX

This is the gun and panel bond epoxy I got from a body shop supply online. The gun was about $50.00 and the epoxy was about $20.00 a tube.

You will use MORE than you think!!

Use a breather and gloves this stuff really has some fumes!!

The Fix...

Then the fun begins, just apply the epoxy to the panel and the section it’s to be bonded with. I did it in 3 parts the outside rocker, then the backing panel, then the piece under the floor. I used the “medium” cure time epoxy. They make a fast and slow as well.

Wait a minute, how do you do the car tag/duct tape repair again?

Seriously, I'm very interested in seeing how this works. My driver's side rocker panel is mostly bondo right now and I'm not a welder.

The FIX....

The last thing I did was to use seam sealer around all the edges and under the truck as well.


The last picture is of the passenger side that I touched up with some filler and sanded then primed.

David

I've always questioned the process of epoxying panels in place. My common sense tells me it would work good as you can treat the inside of the area or repair and it will stay coated. Welding would flake it off. Everyone I've always spoke to said the only "right" way is to weld in new metal. I have some repairs to do on my burb and I'm liking this idea.

Looks good enough for me! Great pics and explaination. Thanks

I have been considering using the same materials to do a similar repair on my 2000 Silverado.

I have found that they make "slip on" panels, that are actually sized to go right on top of the old panel, and be glued on.

If I am not mistaking this epoxy was designed for the early covettes to adhere quickly on the assembly line.

I worked with this same product yrs ago on fiber glass hoods/fenders to adhere them together - it holds with the grip of god and the material around it will break before this stuff even thinks of shattering. It is a fast bond and indeed wear a respirator near the product.

If the lips of the metal pieces have a good clean surface and roughed up there is no reason this product will not work and work properly for the bond. It is sandable and paintable as well once you have primered it.

I would have no holdbacks to use it on what you are doing. If I recall the primer used for PVC piping before cementing them is an excellent primer/surface cleaner (the purple stuff).

Cool
I'm just glad to hear we can still get replacement rocker panels for pretty cheap!

Bonding vs Welding

Thanks for the comments.

First came welding and that's the traditional way to join metal to metal. However, just like many other things in the manufacturing process over time way have been developed that surpass the “old” ways. Welding is good for heavy metal, but for bodywork it takes some skill to weld thin metal. I am no welder but have been around the restoration business for 30 years and now most of the “collision” shops use this stuff everyday. No heat to worry about and ANYONE can do it for around $100.00. I can tell you that the bonded rockers are VERY secure and solid!! I like the results and will now use this system from here on out.

David

Great Idea, I will be doing the same thing.

DH, where did you find the slip on panels?

Rocker

Kipman, you can fine the rockers juat about anywhere and they are almost all the same.

LMC: LMC Truck Parts - Page 31

Goodmark: 1986 Chevrolet Truck C/K Blazer Parts. Goodmark C/K Blazer Parts


The ones I used were not the slip on style, I used the one like LMC has above but they do make the slip on type...Goodmark sells them.

I cut out the old rocker and them bonded the new rocker in it's place. I think it makes for a more factory type repair.

David