6.2L detroit in a 715/725?

DON'T FOR GET SPICER that he will also need to have a second wire coming off the pink wire to go to the cold start thermal switch on the passenger side rear then running up to the I.P. for the cold start advance switch. Once the engine is warmed up the switch will open and the the cold start advance will turn its self off. It works like an electric choke.

Other then that a couple wire to the start, amd a ground and thats it, very simple. wiring.

And this is why i love this site. U guys are awesome! U deserve and recieve respect from me.
I want as few things to go wrong as i can have. Mech clutch is my preferrance too

bcowanwheels said:

6.2's are junk. Dont waste your time with that engine. They crack in the main bearing web alot !!!!!

Click to expand...

They crack the main bearing web or the crank if people don't pay attention and keep running bad harmonic balancers. Take a look at your engine every couple weeks and you will be fine.

Think PMCS!

Sam,
I am in the middle of the 6.2 swap right now. I have everything in place in the truck: 6.2, sm465/np205 combo. Nothing I have done is original, but learned from the guys who have already done the swap on the zone (m715zone.com). I have been documenting the slow progress here: Finally got her on the road! - M715 Zone . I have a limited truck budget, so everything has been done with minimal expense, but no short cuts.
Currently, I have pulled the oil pans on two 6.2's and had the cracked mains. Fortunately, my buddy who I bought the engine from has a pretty good supply of running trucks. So I am bound to get a keeper (hopefully tomorrow).

I will be running a hydro clutch with a manual bellhousing, and just make the BH side bracket. I am more than happy to share parts used and measurements, if needed, just reply on the zone thread, since I am over there almost every day.

Is it possible and/or feasible to keep the divorced t-case?

YES, YES, YES. Do keep that and swap in an NP205. If you're not going to get retarded with the truck with massive tires, axles, and big HP, either the Chevy or Dodge 205 will work as the Chevy has course spline outputs. The International and Dodge 205's have stronger fine spline outputs. Those three have the 'drop' on the correct side for the front axle. It is also possible to keep the NP200's factory E-brake with the right rear drive flange. You'll need to machine a lip into the output housing as the bearing design changed between the 200's and 205's. Do that and you can bolt that 200 rear straight on the 205.

Also the easiest way to mount the 205 is get the passenger side NP205 mount and overlap and weld that to the factory 200 mount. Then, for the driver's side, easiest way is to make a mount that bolts on to the PTO port (if you're not planning on using it).

The thought has crossed my mind to use extra rockwell axles and run 395/85r20 for commonality purposes only. But this poses a complete different set of restrictions and headaches and likely wont be a serious contender

This is what your truck could look like with 395 XML's, spring over front, 2" tapered block and shackle reversal rear...and lots and lots of clearancing.

DAMMITTTTTTT!!! I want the ability to handle that type of terrain but not planning to use it like that on anywhere near a steady basis

Tom, where's Velvet?

Hey Kenny, Velvet has a home in Virginia now. An M715 guy got her from me right before I got the Mog. The big axles and tires and my log dragging workout's I was afraid were going to hurt the frame so went in for a replacement with a stronger chassis. The four ton Mog chassis is doing the trick nicely. Every now and then I miss seeing Velvet at the farm, but she went to a good home and timing on the sale was perfect.

If my plan works out, I'll be selling my crane truck in maybe one to three months. It will definitely be strange at the farm without seeing that truck there.

Crane truck? Pics man pics!

I want one of those.

Geez me too! Been eye ballin a 543 that needs alot of work but thatd be perfect!

Another option is to use a 6.x motor, combined with a GMC/Chevy C40-C70 bellhousing/adaptor plate and bolt up a Spicer 3053A 5-speed transmission... use 6.x flywheel (not dual mass unit) and have clutch disc made with 10-spline center. This will allow you to keep divorced transfer case. Less expansive than NV4500, it's known weaknesses and expensive gear lube.

Later 6.5 blocks are stronger - but 6.x motors in running condition are $300-$500 complete. Stanadyne pumps are marginal, but what else is new? Yes; 6.x blocks will crack mains - eventually - and cranks may break, eventually... I've discussed this before.

Haters will hate on the 6.x motor, and wax poetic about the Cummins,etc., motors. But as much as they typically post negatively on the 6.x, I often discover that they don't own a vehicle with a Cummins powerplant in it, due to the price.

'Tanner'

Very well said. Im new to motors that dont run unleaded. So i want simple, easy to maintain, and powerfull enough to cruise, haul, pull, or crawl. Its not planned to abuse it often but if i need to, i need it to be there for me. We've all gotten into "oh sh*t" situations. Some rigs make it, others dont. Brake upgrades are mandatory. Gotta be safe. Winch is optional. Power and highway speeds are also mandatory. I dont like showroom trucks so yeah, i will spend more to build one thatll be what i want than i should for a late 60's model. For me, all the prime info is in the details. Retail locations would also be nice. Itll all make sense once i get where i can put my eyes and hands on the rig.


I truly appreciate u fellows and ur help. Haters... well... just keep hating

Or gust us a sm465 2wd tranny which did come bolted up behind a 6.2. I have 5 of them.

Tanner, what flywheel would you use with the big 3053A swap? I'm VERY well versed in the Chevy to 3053A/3052 tranny swap and have written many posts and references to them. I don't know for sure if the big stock 13" clutch size flywheel will interchange on the 6.x engines. If yes, great and done deal. If not, you may have to dig a little. I know the early gas Reo trucks had 12" clutches which would be more prone to fit a civvy flywheel. Something to watch on the 3053 swaps is that they do NOT have a rear transmission mount so you need to figure out how to fab one using the existing bolts for covers/bearing caps, etc there. The big bells also have large heavy mounting pads cast into them that WILL be in the way of a forward facing PTO drive so you will have to cut a chunk of that large pad off. Also those big bell housings can be in a single bolt pattern or dual pattern. Anyone going the 3053 route MUST have the dual pattern in the bell. One pattern is tapped, the other is straight thru-holes.

Indy, keep your eyes open in a few months and it may be in the classifieds.

Welder Sam, It's been a great tool to have around as the hobby and parts get heavier.