JB Weld in High Temps. What's your opinions?

Howdy

What's everyone's opinion on JB Weld? I need to seal a leaky section of flex pipe where it connects to the regular pipe on my exhaust. I seen that the puddy is not good for high temps. But what about the other "mix" types?? I've heard of people fixing leaky radiators with it so I'm assuming it should work if I can get the pipes clean enough. Has anyone else had any success with it in high temp applications??


Figured I'd ask. I was curious

Thanks
Tyler

the do make actual exhaust pipe epoxy

permetex makes it, there are also a bunch of others, i dont remeber the name of it, but the last one i used came in a container that looked like a shoe polish tin

swing by NAPA and see what they have

mikes47jeep said:

the do make actual exhaust pipe epoxy

permetex makes it, there are also a bunch of others, i dont remeber the name of it, but the last one i used came in a container that looked like a shoe polish tin

swing by NAPA and see what they have

Click to expand...

Thank you! Didn't know that existed.

I love the stuff, I have used it on most anything. You can drill it, hang heavy stuff on it if you sink a hook in it, and takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Kinda like Jenny.

Why not spend your money on the correct replacement part?

Gluing a flexible(and prone to vibration) part is not gonna work.

In my experience, it will just get brittle, crack, and fall off the part. I vote replace.

DON'T use JB Weld.

Use DEVCON instead.

I've seen the stuff used to repair cracked cylinder heads on a steam winch aboard a merchant vessel.

It truly does what they claim its supposed to do.

Think of epoxies as setting up to form a plastic or polymer substance. High heat is the enemy of plastics. As mentiooned, there are actual exhaust pipe repair compounds on the market, like at NAPA, etc. I have used it with mixed results. It works best where you can get it right into the joint, not smeared over the end of the pipe joint after assembly. As mentioned, it sets up very hard so vibration can crack it loose. It is the harder way, but if you have too much difference in diameter between the flex and the pipe you are trying to connect it over, your best option is to weld a short piece of pipe that fits the flex on the end of the pipe you need to join it to.
Regards Marti

just do the repair once - RIGHT - with new steel parts.....instead of doing it twice

As stated already, fix it properly with replacement pats. But regarding JB Weld, in a hot but non-flex location, it it awesome. I used it on a truck engine's cracked head 16 years ago. Still holding.

Jb weld and most epoxies will not take direct heat . Some can handle 500 degrees.

For applications where you would normally use JBWeld, I have found Marine Tex to be far superior.

I agree, though, that using it any epoxy for the type of repair described is a field expedient at best. If youneed to go this route to temporarily improve the situation, you will get better results if you get all of the rust and grease off so that it is applied to shiny (roughed up) metal.

There are also various wraps that you can apply in conjunction with the epoxy to extend the service life of the expedient repair.

JB is an impressive product , although i tend to view it as a temporay fix , it has stood up in the line of fire , we once used JB weld in a superheated steam coupler on a corrugating machine-we had nothing to lose as the parts were two weeks away in japan-much to everyones amazement [incliuding mine , whose idea it was] the joint held for 8 days.

it,s main use in my world was to put in new port floors in aircooled motorcycle race engines

Ya, well I had gone the JB weld route just to pass it in inspection, it actually held for a few good trips. Bit it did crack and crumble out of where it was. Once I fix the brakes I'm just taking it to a exhaust place to get some work done anyways. For $5 it worked for what I needed it for lol