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Thread: 5 ton fuel tank selector valve cleaning/rebuild

  1. #11
    4 Star General /Moderator doghead's Avatar
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    The O-rings can be replaced without removing the lines from the valve.

    The primer line can leak too.
    Last edited by Warthog; 03-11-2014 at 18:17.
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    On the M818, you can loosen the brass head on the selector valve after the handle is removed and then unscrew it the rest of the way after you drop it down. Not sure if the M931 valve is identical or not. I took the valve all the way out because my hoses were all in bad shape and I wanted to ensure that there was no debris in the valve.

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    Thanks guys, my project for tomorrow before another foot of snow hits on Wednesday. I have read in a couple of threads that some folks remove the fuel filter top wing nut pet cock and replaced it with a plug???
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    The petcock is there so you can open the lower petcock after the top one is opened so you can drain water/crud from the filter.
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    On one of the trucks I have now, it has a Schrader valve on top of the fuel filter instead of a petcock valve. It works well to bleed the air out when you pressure the fuel tank with about 5# of air pressure after a filter change out. You can also pressure up the fuel tank to find suspect air leaks in the fuel hoses, be sure to not overpressure your tank.

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    4 Star General Floridianson's Avatar
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    On the 809 it's is so much easer if you remove the foot step too. Five min. four bolts and you will thank me.
    Last edited by Floridianson; 02-03-2014 at 21:27.
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    4 Star General AMGeneral's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 73m819 View Post
    Just a side note, the 39 series has a DIFFERENT change over valve, it is a single fueling port with two tank lines instead a double port, four tank lines.
    Single supply and 2 from the tank with no returns?

    Must be for a gasser,all multis with dual tanks had a transfer pump and the Macks had the same as the 800 series.

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    General joesco's Avatar
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    Hummm, I like the idea of a Schrader valve, it may be a bit more "air" leak - proof!
    Southern NH
    My former stable
    1953 M37 (Barn Fresh CT. Truck)
    1963 M37 (Tx Fire Dept Truck)
    1987 M998 Humvee (TN Truck)
    1969 Unimog 421 (Unkown)
    1967 Unimog 404 (French Fire Truck)
    1968 M715 (Diesel Repower)
    1970 M35A2 aka Brutus
    1986 M1008
    1992 Libby MEP-002A GenSet
    1985 M931 - Bobbed - ZEUS (Fort Devens Truck)

  14. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by joesco View Post
    Hummm, I like the idea of a Schrader valve, it may be a bit more "air" leak - proof!
    Wouldn't think that'd be wise. That pump is all the way up at the engine and having to suck through a real long straw already. Adding a schrader valve would impede flow drastically.
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    General joesco's Avatar
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    Thanks, tomorrow I will just replace the petcock. So far, the only weak link that I have found in my M931 is fuel delivery, specifically the petcocks, selector valve and the canister fuel filter housing. I am beginning to wonder if the truck maybe sucking air through the canister bolt. I am almost tempted to convert to a spin-on setup fuel filter. It was the best mod that I did on my deuce!!
    Southern NH
    My former stable
    1953 M37 (Barn Fresh CT. Truck)
    1963 M37 (Tx Fire Dept Truck)
    1987 M998 Humvee (TN Truck)
    1969 Unimog 421 (Unkown)
    1967 Unimog 404 (French Fire Truck)
    1968 M715 (Diesel Repower)
    1970 M35A2 aka Brutus
    1986 M1008
    1992 Libby MEP-002A GenSet
    1985 M931 - Bobbed - ZEUS (Fort Devens Truck)

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