Extra fuel tank install

I'm in the process of adding another 50 gal fuel tank on the drivers side of my A2. The tank came from an A1 but it fit in like a glove after we took out the spare tire and stuck it elsewhere. Getting ready to hook it inline but I'm still racking my head on just how I want it hooked up. Also getting ready to add another fuel gauge in for that tank as well. Any ideas on an ethical fuel hook up or crossover. And where can I get power for the new gauge when installed. Any insight would be great.

Rather than lots of plumbing with a selector valve, why not just pump one tank into the other?

if i remember right the power comes from the sending unit and you just have to ground the gauge. you can tap power without cutting the harness with one of these 3 wire spider harnesses at Saturn Surplus of you can find a place to add it in the sustem. if you keep an eye out on the Ebay you may find one of these gauge clusters to mount under the dash. then you can either put the new fuel gauge there of move another gauge there and keep your fuel gauges together. the reason it says air i think is because the air gauges does not need a ground it just uses pressure.

Do it the way Gimp has indicated, much easier and the fuel gauge will still work. Gravity will keep both tanks at the same level.....until you let Gimp drive it. Then one side will be full and the other empty

Thanks I'll give that a shot. And also thanks on the wiring harness idea. I'll check it out.

gimpyrobb said:

Rather than lots of plumbing with a selector valve, why not just pump one tank into the other?

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I think doing that is a great idea.
That way you do not have to deal with the return lines.

I did the exact same thing. Put in an aux fuel tank and fed the main tank. Here's my write up if you're interested:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/55385-project-off-grid-m109a3-w-w-log-17.html

FIRST-- use the same gage for BOTH tanks, just use a gage selector flip switch like the m52s, 51s, 62s, 543s

SECOND--- use a transfer pump (same pump as the 109 box heater ) from the second tank to the draw dank, like the m51a2s, m52a2s, m543a2s, if up dated m62a2s , again a on/off flip switch and a indicator light on the dash (uses a GREEN lens)

check out the 5t tm9-2320-211-10 for the dash layout

The above is a lot eaiser to do, WILL be the CORRECT install for a A2, no need for extra gages, a lot cheaper, will LOOK right

dittle said:

Do it the way Gimp has indicated, much easier and the fuel gauge will still work. Gravity will keep both tanks at the same level.....until you let Gimp drive it. Then one side will be full and the other empty

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NO FEAR! I put check valves in my system so each tank would retain its fuel.

The only reason I would want a complete seperate tank is one for WMO and one for diesel.
Cold weather, start and stop on diesel.

The write up was helpful and the gauge idea as well. thanks all of you. It's making the part of the job much easier.

Why not just get a fuel selector valve and gage selector switch from an M818 tractor?

Why not just run a siphon line or even a common "low line" between the tanks and use one pump, one accurate fuel level sender, and forget about it? The tanks will equalize with simple, sweet, reliable, and FREE gravity.

If you really want to push the fuel around, you could even use a little air pressure. Emphasis on "little".. meaning low pressure.

similar to the way the Old Harley tank works . 2 tanks with a ballance hose between them. Fluid seeks its own level so it keeps both tanks at the same level all the time . Has worked great for about 70+ years for them !!!

The problem with a equalizing line on a deuce, is the tank/tanks bottom is low, on road just like OTR trucks there is no problem, OFFROAD is a whole nother thing, being the line would be low hanging, a VERY good chance of being RIPPED OFF, these truck are made for MAX ground clearence for off road use

Ok, he may want/need maximum clearance... so route it up and make it a siphon line. It will work the same. At the very bottom of the tank it may lose prime.

So, put a valve on the liquid line, and an air valve into the secondary tank set for low pressure. open valve and push air into the otherwise sealed secondary tank... open the primary fill cap. When you hear bubbles shut the valve and kill the air.

The fuel flow valve or check valve would be required anyway to prevent backflow when the truck wasn't level.

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat without more wires, pumps and gauges.

Just a though to remember fluid seeks it's own level , could overflow without check valves. With me the more simple the better less chance of fuel change over valves valves going AWOL and having to make road repairs .

In my own bob thread I talk about having a 5 gallon fuel tank for diesel and the factory deuce tank for WMO. I will be running a 3-way valve to a single external pump. Only 1 fuel gauge for the factory tank. I will post pictures when I'm done!

Good luck!

Heath_h49008 said:

Ok, he may want/need maximum clearance... so route it up and make it a siphon line. It will work the same. At the very bottom of the tank it may lose prime.

So, put a valve on the liquid line, and an air valve into the secondary tank set for low pressure. open valve and push air into the otherwise sealed secondary tank... open the primary fill cap. When you hear bubbles shut the valve and kill the air.

The fuel flow valve or check valve would be required anyway to prevent backflow when the truck wasn't level.

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat without more wires, pumps and gauges.

Click to expand...

The above idea is WAY MORE complicated then the OM 5t set up, because with the 5t setup you can do everything needed to transfer fuel as you MOTIVATE down the road and ONLY requires a switch or two, wire, about 8' of hose and a pump, NO worry about BLOWING UP a tank, no valves, no air lines, no worry about keeping a sealed tank (sealing to draw then unsealing to fill, then sealing to draw, then unsealing to fill, ect, ect,), no air lines run, no need to stop to transfer fuel, no worry about being level,

A SIPHON won't work in this case as both tanks will be at the same level, about the only way to make it work is to SEAL the draw tank, no return, nothing, again back to sealing, unsealing, sealing, unsealing a tank plus needing someplace for the return to go.

I am a firm believer in KISS

Been thinking about plans for a small reactor so I will need no refueling !!!!