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How to repack wheel bearings?

rustystud

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One thing most people don't understand is that grease becomes almost a liquid when hot. So when you repack the bearings you do need to add grease all around the hub. I have seen bearings burnt-up because the mechanic thought he only needed grease on the bearing itself. When that bearing got hot the grease slid off and there wasn't enough grease in the hub to help.
I'm not saying to pack the hub "full" ! but put enough grease in there so that when it gets hot there will be some to get on that bearing. For those who don't believe me about the grease, take some good axle grease (in a cup) and put it in your microwave. After a few minutes you will see what I mean.
 

Welder1

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Rusty stud is right the grease will flow even cold it will settle due to gravity. I always put enough if the hub so the bearings are supplied with grease when it settles.
 

Kaiser67M715

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It's always my practice to throw a little grease on the spindle in case of a water intrusion, far less likely to rust if you don't catch it, I also glob grease in between the races, just enough for the grease to be above the races by a little bit, too much grease can be as bad as too little
 

royalflush55

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It's always my practice to throw a little grease on the spindle in case of a water intrusion, far less likely to rust if you don't catch it, I also glob grease in between the races, just enough for the grease to be above the races by a little bit, too much grease can be as bad as too little
Please explain why too much grease can be as bad as too little.
 

Floridianson

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Other than rubbing a little there for rust proofing can you tell me why James-If I'm doing something wrong or missing something I'm always ready to learn a new way.
CT
Funny how old threads come up. As many said old school guys know that we pack the hub. I use a 5 gallon paint stirring stick and it take some practice and not hard if you just work the grease around the inside of the hub. It will pack down all around and stay.
As said the grease when Hot will run out of the bearing because there is no grease dam to stop it in the hub. If you do a good job on the hub when the wheel spins it will level out the grease in the hub and push it outwards to the bearings and keep what grease is in the bearings There. Cleaning out old grease I just use paper towels and wipe it out.
 
Last edited:

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
I use a large coffee can with some gas to soak and clean the old grease from the wheel bearings, then I put wheel bearing grease in a zip lock bag followed by a wheel bearing and just squeeze it around to pack the bearing.
This is the least messy way to get the job done I have found!
 

Kaiser67M715

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From what I have been told, with to much grease, 1st it can get forced out of seals, this can then render a seal bad. And 2nd that it over works the bearing, it interferes with heat transfer, causing overheating
 

Floridianson

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Rusty the microwave is not as good as the oven set at 120*. This is the lowest I have seen my grease packed bearings run on the hub.
Now if one got the bearings to tight or is overloading the truck then well you get the Idea.
Razor did you pack your hub. I buy the grease in 5 Gal. bucket's
 

Floridianson

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No I like my bearing's uncooked or raw. The microwave make them tuff to chew. Now the wad of grease I put in the oven to watch it lay down for a test.
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Dry Creek, Louisiana
I pack my hubs full, and they run at ambient temp. Most of the time they even feel cool/ lukewarm to the touch. My infrared temp gun reads them all around 80 degrees after hours on the road.
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
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Location
Louisville, KY
I have a question or two on wheel bearing servicing.
I last did all the bearings and brakes on a Deuce about 8 years ago so I am rusty.
I have all of the TMs in PDF and I see the information in this thread on the area of instruction for the bearings.
I "thought" that I remembered an area where a cork is installed in the keyway of the spindle and sealed in place but it is not mentioned in the TM or at least I have not come across it yet.
Does anyone recall this elusive tidbit of info or is it not for this truck?
I ask because when my truck have a wheel cylinder stick last week, I
pulled the rear hub and discovered that all the grease was washed out by gear oil due to leaking seals, etc.
I want to do all of my bearings while I am changing wheel cylinders and flex hoses and want my new grease to stay put where it is supposed to be.
If I do not get it transported to my new home area I will be driving it 700 miles instead.
Engine oil & filters done, fuel filters done, and gear oils to be done. Everything is getting freshly lubed.
Note; If you can recommend a new conventional gear oil for yellow metal, that would be great too as I have not purchased any for 8 years now. I also want to do the bearings on the rear boggies as they have probably never been done unless the truck has have axles replaced sometime since 1970.
Thanks for reading.
jimm1009
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,070
2,385
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I have a question or two on wheel bearing servicing.
I last did all the bearings and brakes on a Deuce about 8 years ago so I am rusty.
I have all of the TMs in PDF and I see the information in this thread on the area of instruction for the bearings.
I "thought" that I remembered an area where a cork is installed in the keyway of the spindle and sealed in place but it is not mentioned in the TM or at least I have not come across it yet.
Does anyone recall this elusive tidbit of info or is it not for this truck?
I ask because when my truck have a wheel cylinder stick last week, I
pulled the rear hub and discovered that all the grease was washed out by gear oil due to leaking seals, etc.
I want to do all of my bearings while I am changing wheel cylinders and flex hoses and want my new grease to stay put where it is supposed to be.
If I do not get it transported to my new home area I will be driving it 700 miles instead.
Engine oil & filters done, fuel filters done, and gear oils to be done. Everything is getting freshly lubed.
Note; If you can recommend a new conventional gear oil for yellow metal, that would be great too as I have not purchased any for 8 years now. I also want to do the bearings on the rear boggies as they have probably never been done unless the truck has have axles replaced sometime since 1970.
Thanks for reading.
jimm1009
The "cork" is used to seal the "keyway" on the spindle, keeping differential fluid from entering the wheel bearings. You can use a good silicone, but the cork or a similar material is best.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
I have a question or two on wheel bearing servicing. ~ cork is installed in the keyway of the spindle ~ freshly lubed ~ Note; If you can recommend a new conventional gear oil for yellow metal, jimm1009
After much research, and I mean a lot of research, I serviced all the axles with new copper squish washers and this lube. I got the VV829 from Amazon as it was shipped to here as is still available.
gear oil Deuce differentials oil A 07262013.jpg gear oil Deuce differentials oil B 07262013.jpg

I put no grease in the truck except what the TM said to use which is GAA.
Yes, I bought two cases of GAA, many on here scoff at that but it is what the TM's say to use, never had a problem with it and I like the smell of it..

About the cork in the keyway, I made my own and sealed that in with RTV, none of them ever leaked again. I had a hard time finding a bottle of wine with the proper cork to use, lots of plastic nowadays, but I persevered. The cork in the keyway thing is mandatory and been covered many times in SS. Here is a bit of my findings on cork for the axle keyway from many contributors.

Note that the axle keyway must be really really clean (think trichloroethane and brake clean stuff) to pack the cork in there and seal it with RTV and let it dry.

cork seal .jpg
cork in the keyway Hub.jpg
cork seals 20171201_080051.jpg
cork seal 1.jpg
cork seal 2.jpg

The information as it exists that you seek is in here about the cork.
If it just looks like a black box to you click on it as the TB is there.
View attachment TB-9-2300-426-20 brakes cork seal.pdf

Or you could start your own search by using the search box and get this
https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partn...ldiers.com/editpost.php?p=2186271&do=editpost
 
Last edited:

13ronin

New member
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0
0
Location
PA
As a millwright I find the cork insert fantastic! Simple but elegant and the porous nature of the cork would be great for the Rtv to stick to. As mentioned above, those surfaces have to be CLEAN for the rtv to stick. No oil or crease residue at all on any of the metal parts or the surface of the cork you want it to stick.. Rubbing alcohol would probably do the job just find just make sure it's super clean and give the rtv a full 24 hrs before returning to service to set properly. If you get grease on the cork, you'll probably have to use a new one. Doubt you would be able to get that surface clean once contaminated.
 
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