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Chronicle of a tan M1101 trailer purchase from GovLiquidation.com

clutzer

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PS when you are looking for your top you will also need a top bow kit. According to the TM which you can find online, the 1101's didn't seem to have tops and the 2's did. but the trailers I was looking at this week, there were 1101's with tops on them, so they must have put a top kit on them.
As for your hitch, if you have a receiver on the back, about any good auto or truck parts store will be able to fix you right up.
Thanks for the tip. I found one on eBay (being sold by a fellow HMLer) that has the entire kit: bows, mounting hardware, and canvas soft top. Can't wait to get this all put together.
 

Amer-team

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Thanks for the tips from emmado22, with a little more reading of the TM, I now understand the difference between a light and heavy 1101. I have been having 1101 envy for some time and think one will find its way to my stable one of these days.
 

Mainsail

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I recently bid and won one of these from Ft Lewis. There were seven of them on the auction and I was high bidder for days, until the last few minutes when people came out of nowhere to bid them all up. The one I had went over $1K and I bowed out. I bid on another one and was outbid, but the next morning I got an email saying I'd won it for $890.

Does anyone have any experience with the SF97? The website has this:

TRANSFER OF TITLE TO VEHICLES: Government Liquidation will supply a SF97 to customers under the following conditions: The vehicle must have been sold in a "useable" property sale (Sale No. is less than 6000). GL will not issue SF97s for vehicles sold in Scrap material sales (Sales No. is greater than or equal to 6000).
My sale number is 10515. It certainly doesn't look like scrap, it was made in 2009 and looks almost new in the pictures. I'm stressing this because we have to tag our trailers here in Washington.

I sent my EUC in Friday, but they were closed today.

I managed to find a pintle hook and riser plate to make up the difference between the trailer’s lunette ring height (29½") and my jeep’s receiver (22"). It was a minor miracle that they had the big riser plate, it came in only an hour before I arrived as a mistake that they didn't order, so they sold it to me for the same price as the small one.
 
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Mainsail

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Whew! Thanks, that takes a load off! I called them on Friday to ask them and they told me to read the FAQ, which I had already done.

Here's the page, the condition code is B4:

[FONT=Verdana,Arial][SIZE=-1]New, used, repaired, or reconditioned materiel which is serviceable and issuable for its intended purpose but which is restricted from issue to specific units, activities, or geographical areas by reason of its limited usefulness or short service life expectancy. Includes materiel with 3 through 6 months shelf-life remaining. Usable. Property which shows some wear, but can be used without significant repair.[/SIZE][/FONT]
I called the local office to ask what the "No NWO Tag" thing means, and it took them a while to come to the conclusion that it was a typo, and should have said "No MWO tag" which I think means there were no, what we in the Air Force called a TCTO, work done on the trailer, probably because it is so new?
 
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Mainsail

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Well, I got the first two hurdles behind me. My EUC status is Received, and the pintle hook is ready to go.
 

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Mainsail

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Whats your plan for electrical?
The current plan is to drive the hour between Lewis and Silverdale without lights, then address it later. I can also cut the 12 pin plug off and wire in the 7 blade right there in the yard, then drive home.

I'm getting conflicting information about the trailer lights. I understand they came with LEDs and they're 24V, but some say they'll work fine for 12V as well. Any correct info is MUCH appreciated!
 

emmado22

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Not all of them came with the LED 12/24V (actually 10 to 36V) lights. It varried from contract to contract. Most just have the regular military tail lights. The easiest thing to do since you have some time is buy a used/ damaged trailer cord off ebay (beltfed34 has them all the time with damged "the side that plugs into the truck" end. Cut it off and wire in a 7 wire plug. Takes about 5 minutes to do. When you do your pick up, unplug the harness on the trailer, then plug in your newly made one.. No problems at all. You onyl need 4 wires. The ground, left, right, and marker. The pinouts are on my thread I posted about civy to military trailer wiring thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/31824-civy-truck-mil-trailer-wiring-info.html
 
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gimpyrobb

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Or spend $10 at horrible freight and get the magnetic lights so you don't risk smashing it into someone that is not paying attention or get a ticket.
Edit, yes I know they will not "stick" to the trailer, but some bailing wire or velcro or some wire ties would work. I like the trailers for a hmmvw, but they are too wide to see around behind a pickup truck.
 

Mainsail

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Will magnetic lights stick to the aluminum trailer, or is there some steel in the corners? EDIT: Thanks, I see your edit! :whistle:

Here's a breakdown of the trailers in the sale and their VINs. Of the seven up for auction, all but two were listed as 2009 models; mine was one of the two. That could be because it's not a 2009, or because they just left the year off.

1. Year unknown- VIN 14207
2. Mine- VIN 14280
3. 2009- VIN 14290
4. 2009 VIN 14298
5. 2009 VIN 14299
6. 2009 VIN 14301
7. 2009 VIN 14319

Mine is VIN 14280 and the lowest identified 2009 VIN is 14290. Is it safe to assume mine is a 2009? If so, is it likely that they came with LEDs?
 
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clutzer

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The current plan is to drive the hour between Lewis and Silverdale without lights, then address it later. I can also cut the 12 pin plug off and wire in the 7 blade right there in the yard, then drive home.

I'm getting conflicting information about the trailer lights. I understand they came with LEDs and they're 24V, but some say they'll work fine for 12V as well. Any correct info is MUCH appreciated!
I recommend the following: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

It's a military to civilian wiring harness--it's my understanding that our 12V civilian vehicles will be able to drive the 24V lights on these trailers.

Note: I haven't used this harness yet, but I've ordered it :wink:

I believe I will need to have the identical pintle/receiver set up you have. Literally identical. Although, I'm looking at a swiveling pintle because I will be taking this trailer off-road.
 

clutzer

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Location
Cambridge/MA
Will magnetic lights stick to the aluminum trailer, or is there some steel in the corners? EDIT: Thanks, I see your edit! :whistle:

Here's a breakdown of the trailers in the sale and their VINs. Of the seven up for auction, all but two were listed as 2009 models; mine was one of the two. That could be because it's not a 2009, or because they just left the year off.

1. Year unknown- VIN 14207
2. Mine- VIN 14280
3. 2009- VIN 14290
4. 2009 VIN 14298
5. 2009 VIN 14299
6. 2009 VIN 14301
7. 2009 VIN 14319

Mine is VIN 14280 and the lowest identified 2009 VIN is 14290. Is it safe to assume mine is a 2009? If so, is it likely that they came with LEDs?
Mine: 14299 :whistle:
 

Mainsail

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Mine: 14299 :whistle:
:mrgreen:

I dropped out of that one after $888, then it looks like two others were bidding against you. I was sitting all fat & happy on VIN 14298 for several days before the bidding wars started.

Does anyone think GL goes in and bids the stuff up? I wasn't the high bidder when it closed, but the next morning I won for $890.

I like the adapter, but with the pintle arrangement running around $100, I don't like the price of that. EDIT: Nevertheless, please send me that guy's contact email so I can think about buying from him. I don't do ebay anymore.

ALSO: Sorry to hijack your thread!
 
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clutzer

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:mrgreen:

I dropped out of that one after $888, then it looks like two others were bidding against you. I was sitting all fat & happy on VIN 14298 for several days before the bidding wars started.

Does anyone think GL goes in and bids the stuff up? I wasn't the high bidder when it closed, but the next morning I won for $890.

I like the adapter, but with the pintle arrangement running around $100, I don't like the price of that. EDIT: Nevertheless, please send me that guy's contact email so I can think about buying from him. I don't do ebay anymore.

ALSO: Sorry to hijack your thread!
I bid something like $880 or whatever, and the other guy's autobid shot my next bid to $1039.99. Barf. Oh well.

I have no idea if GL runs the bids up, that would be pretty unethical if they did. But regarding the last minute bidding, that's what I do--and outlined in my original post. I don't see value in running the bidding up over a number of days: it gives people all the time in the world to counter your bid. If you wait, they have 15 minutes, and that's it. If they are commuting home at 5PM and can't re-bid, then that's too bad for them :twisted:

I've sent a note to the guy on eBay, but he hasn't responded to my first inquiry yet so I'm not sure how readily we'll get a response.

And don't worry about the hijack, this is all good information. All my pertinent data will be edited into the main post so I don't care about how long this topic gets ;-)
 
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