What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

2 hours in a great swap time. When we did my M925 we pulled the transmission as well, but I had to deal with a PTO.

simp5782 said:

I can have em out in around 2 hours albert. I tend to pull the transmission with it on trucks that aren't equipped with a PTO. Not worth fighting that other crap on a PTO truck. Not too bad. I am anxious for my big cam swap cause my truck has 90percent of the crap already taken off that makes it difficult. So that should be around 10 bolts and out she comes.

Hardest part of the whole swap is those 2 dang nuts on the U bolt holding the shift linkage to the transmission plate. a royal pain

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simp5782 said:

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If they replace the odometer with the rebuild, wouldn’t your odometer just say “00060”?


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Sorry the hour meter. RSMS Trucks had both replaced

acolesurf said:

If they replace the odometer with the rebuild, wouldn’t your odometer just say “00060”?


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I rebuilt my air dryer and found a small leak a loose-fitting going into the secondary tank. My leaky blowdown valve is good now the air dryer looked pretty good inside and everything was working good, but that valve would leak and it would lose air, now it's holding air pressure great, I can't hear any air leaks!

simp5782 said:

Hour meters are always replaced with an engine. Plus its got updated crap on it. It even has the fuel pressure sensor right on the port in the front of the head. That is only on a rebuilt engine. Period. I have only seen it on a few trucks ever. And its moronic cause its not hooked to anything.

I will also add that when certain bolts/nuts are different sizes from the originals it usually means that. Standard military starters on 809 and 939s were 3/4" socket on the big studs. Updated ones are 7/8" socket sizes. Also has the fuel pressure reducer removed which was standard removal on rebuilt engines on the NHC250s. Alternators came with standard 7/16" bolts with a standard fine thread lock nut. Upgraded units with the same alternator have a newer type of locknut on it unlike the standard you would see.

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Thanks. Just looking for some input. I have a 923A2 RRAD Rebuild truck that doesn’t have a rebuilt engine, based on your parameters. I think it’s a solid truck, but I have had others that were stronger.

I bought two trucks from RRAD that had new 2012 engines. However the trucks themselves were not stamped as rebuilds, one was a 250 other an 8.3. I suspect they started to rebuild and didn’t finish, or they just blew the engines and replaced the engines with new ones.

Anyway, thanks. Learn something new every day.

Drove down to the local bicycle shop this morning to pick up my wife's mountain bike. The shop owner has a bobbed deuce.

Purge valve sounds better, it held pressure overnight, very happy!

After last weekend's foul up, I realized that I had not even thought to check the fluid level of the brake master cylinder. Bad Moose, drop and give me 10,000 ( as if ). Sooooo, almost a quart later, the master cylinder is full of fresh purple pedal juice. Already have improvement in the pedal. Now stops an inch or two from the floorboard. Was hoping to have soldier B help me bleed the system today but it is 96 degrees of dang it's hot here today ( I know, a cool day for some of yuz ( mos68x et Al ) but after two weeks in the 70's I wussed out. I am curious to find where the fluid went. I know at least some of the w/c s were replaced before I picked it up along with at least two hoses. At least w/c s aren't too expensive. Worst part will be pulling the wheels / drums/ hubs since I haven't procured one o' those multipliers yet. It is next on the tools to buy list. Also worked on a plan for filling the hole where the rear doors are when I take them off to make them straight again. Also found that one of the pawls for the expansion crank got crushed. Hope I can find one in the future. I would like to TRY opening the sides this summer but I'm a little leary since I have no idea how many decades ago they might have been moved. Read the TM for body maintenance and just getting to the slides and rollers looks daunting. I know it's the right thing to do though so I'll just have to suck it up and get to wrenching and greasing. Anybody with a van body ever done the PM per the TM ? Just curious about how many man-hours. Ran, did not move, her until thermostat opened. Needed to hear her sing even if just softly.

Well here she is. Yeah I would say she is a rebuild. Everything looks new. and there is no way it is a coincidence that that piston was beating the crap out of the valves 13 hours after rebuild if it wasn't a crap rebuild. #6 was starting to smack the valves as well but # 4 was doing it pretty bad.

also fresh markings on the flywheel and that fuel pressure sensor on the NHC250 that is only on the later rebuilds. and it had a brand new holset air compressor on it too! So rather than rebuild it here and now I will work on it. I already installed another good take out motor so she should be rocking and rolling tomorrow.

I also ended up just leaving the transmission in since i didn't have a soldier B available. Wasn't too bad of a job the climbing up and down off the wrecker gets old though. But could always be worse.

Still just shaking my head.

simp5782 said:

Well here she is. Yeah I would say she is a rebuild. Everything looks new. and there is no way it is a coincidence that that piston was beating the crap out of the valves 13 hours after rebuild if it wasn't a crap rebuild. #6 was starting to smack the valves as well but # 4 was doing it pretty bad.

also fresh markings on the flywheel and that fuel pressure sensor on the NHC250 that is only on the later rebuilds. and it had a brand new holset air compressor on it too! So rather than rebuild it here and now I will work on it. I already installed another good take out motor so she should be rocking and rolling tomorrow.

I also ended up just leaving the transmission in since i didn't have a soldier B available. Wasn't too bad of a job the climbing up and down off the wrecker gets old though. But could always be worse.

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You swapped engines in, what, 2 days? By yourself?

Buffalobwana said:

You swapped engines in, what, 2 days? By yourself?

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About 3hours. I did about an hour or so worth of work yesterday to get ready to pull it out. This afternoon about 330 I pulled the old one out. And tore it down to the block like it is in the pic. Hooked the wrecker to the other engine. Back into the hole in front of it and dropped it in. The biggest pain is the torque converter and transmission mating it can be tricky. And fight you. By 6 the other motor was in. About 90mins tomorrow depending on the heat she will be back together. Hardest part is putting the hood back on

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Mines a rrad truck, glad I didnt get one of the "special" ones!...pisses me off that some douchebag was sabotaging the rebuilds. Wish they would have caught him....

Drive back from the bike shop was good, right untill I got home, truck died driving up my driveway! Don't think the tank was empty, just switched over to ot a couple days ago, it was full and I havent driven it much. I looked in the cap, noticed a fog like vapor in the filler area. I switched tanks, primed it and it started right up. Drove it up to the house without incident and parked it, glad it happened on the driveway. Ill change the hoses, check the valve and connections and eventually look in the tank, I remember reading something here about the pickup tubes. I need to check / fix my sending units too, accurate is not a word Id use to describe them!

Also noticed ticking sounds as brake drums cooled, the felt hot to the touch, was a 2 mile downhill in the mountain twisties, whats normal for the brake drums in such a case with an empty truck?

One drum had a oily film, but no drips on the ground. Ill have to wash it good and keep an eye on it.

Thanks for any insights.

8madjack said:

Mines a rrad truck, glad I didnt get one of the "special" ones!...pisses me off that some douchebag was sabotaging the rebuilds. Wish they would have caught him....

Drive back from the bike shop was good, right untill I got home, truck died driving up my driveway! Don't think the tank was empty, just switched over to ot a couple days ago, it was full and I havent driven it much. I looked in the cap, noticed a fog like vapor in the filler area. I switched tanks, primed it and it started right up. Drove it up to the house without incident and parked it, glad it happened on the driveway. Ill change the hoses, check the valve and connections and eventually look in the tank, I remember reading something here about the pickup tubes. I need to check / fix my sending units too, accurate is not a word Id use to describe them!

Also noticed ticking sounds as brake drums cooled, the felt hot to the touch, was a 2 mile downhill in the mountain twisties, whats normal for the brake drums in such a case with an empty truck?

One drum had a oily film, but no drips on the ground. Ill have to wash it good and keep an eye on it.

Thanks for any insights.

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If I remember right, 98G or CSM Davis said mine was a RRAD too, makes me wonder if that’s why I’m having so many issues with my engine.

make sure to check your fuel line right at the elbow where it goes into the tank if it is still the OE copper line. Mine was cracked and left me stranded out in BFE. I just changed mine to the 844 air line that claims it is also rated for fuel. Had to change two other fittings to make it work but I haven’t had any issues since.

What a job with out soldier B.

Ticking is them cooling off. You should drive around for at least a few extra miles. Hot brakes and then you apply the spring brakes causes the brake liners to have more heat against the drums. That is why some trucks on mountain braking burn to the ground after their brakes get hot and they stop to let em cool. They just ignite. Or let it sit for a minute with the spring brake override engaged and your driveline brake pulled up.

8madjack said:

Mines a rrad truck, glad I didnt get one of the "special" ones!...pisses me off that some douchebag was sabotaging the rebuilds. Wish they would have caught him....

Drive back from the bike shop was good, right untill I got home, truck died driving up my driveway! Don't think the tank was empty, just switched over to ot a couple days ago, it was full and I havent driven it much. I looked in the cap, noticed a fog like vapor in the filler area. I switched tanks, primed it and it started right up. Drove it up to the house without incident and parked it, glad it happened on the driveway. Ill change the hoses, check the valve and connections and eventually look in the tank, I remember reading something here about the pickup tubes. I need to check / fix my sending units too, accurate is not a word Id use to describe them!

Also noticed ticking sounds as brake drums cooled, the felt hot to the touch, was a 2 mile downhill in the mountain twisties, whats normal for the brake drums in such a case with an empty truck?

One drum had a oily film, but no drips on the ground. Ill have to wash it good and keep an eye on it.

Thanks for any insights.

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M35A2-AZ said:

What a job with out soldier B.

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I am still in that age range of young and do everything by myself Al. I know ill regret it in 10yrs when I can't move half my body.

simp5782 said:

I am still in that age range of young and do everything by myself Al. I know ill regret it in 10yrs when I can't move half my body.

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As long as you can still move your fingers and tongue you can make most happy or piss them off.

For your "hot" brake drums, the important thing is were they all about the same temp ? Touch is not a very good way to determine temps. Hot to the touch could be as low as 120 or so degrees. An inexpensive non-contact thermometer is very nice to have. Point, pull trigger, see temp. If they were hot enough to be "ticking" they were probably well over 250,which is still well within normal range. If you were on the pedal during your downhill ride then I don't see a reason for concern. If you weren't then they might be adjusted too tight. Only way to know is to measure clearance ( an annoying and tedious, although VITAL, operation ). Are your drums painted (on the outside ) ? I used to catch brake abusers and see potential problems with a single wheel by painting the drums with high heat ( BBQ ) paint. If it blistered or was gone I had a clue that the drum(s) in question had gone well over 700 degrees. That is not good and prolonged running at those temps will wreck seals and melt the grease outta the bearings. Also, obviously, not good.

A quick check is to feel all the drums after about 5 miles or so of normal driving. If you can touch them for about 5 seconds and not have to pull your hand away then things are fine. Again, they should all be about the same temp, that's the important thing. If one is hotter, something's dragging. If one is significantly COOLER check into it as soon as possible, it's not doing what it should. I have seen on here lists of "normal" hub temps but the number isn't that important. Even and relative to the use is what's important.

I learned the hard way, forgot, and relearned that BRAKES MUST WORK PROPERLY. Stay safe and Happy Motoring.

simp5782 said:

I am still in that age range of young and do everything by myself Al. I know ill regret it in 10yrs when I can't move half my body.

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I am living proof of that. I still try to do everything myself. It just takes ten times longer and a LOT more Advil.

Mos68x said:

If I remember right, 98G or CSM Davis said mine was a RRAD too, makes me wonder if that’s why I’m having so many issues with my engine.

make sure to check your fuel line right at the elbow where it goes into the tank if it is still the OE copper line. Mine was cracked and left me stranded out in BFE. I just changed mine to the 844 air line that claims it is also rated for fuel. Had to change two other fittings to make it work but I haven’t had any issues since.

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I do have a little wetness from what looks like a fuel leak coming from that area on that tank. It wasn't there before I started driving. So that's the first thing I'll check thanks