What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

It is 3/4 stud for sure. Just not sure on the pitch to order a thread chaser. Is it 16? I didn't check but are the wheel studs the same as the lock studs or is another chaser needed?

smokem joe said:

Fixed a tire that leaked badly. Rust all over around the oring. Guess I should do the other 5 soon too. Anyone know for sure that the thread size on combat wheels is 3/4-16? I want to buy a thread chaser to cut the rust off the threads

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Just go to harbor Freight and get [FONT=HarborFreightFont_regular]Central Pneumatic®[/FONT][FONT=HarborFreightFont_regular]-[/FONT][FONT=HarborFreightFont_regular] Item#95793
[/FONT]It is a small hand held "sand" blaster. When I change the glass beads
in my glass bead blaster I save the old beads in a 5 gallon pail
with a lid and use them in this tool. You will thank me, works GREAT
for small things like that. HF might sell glass beads too.

got some nickel and dime parts to go on the truck. got a 24v-12v converter with a marine style cig outlet and some usb ports to install. time to put a small modern touch in the truck. project for this weekend

Ben, where will you mount those, on/in the box next to the battery? Have you put any LED lighting in it?

tobyS said:

Ben, where will you mount those, on/in the box next to the battery? Have you put any LED lighting in it?

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I'm going mount a toggle switch and the cig plug half way up on the middle seat about where your calf's would be small whole saw should do the trick

I'll mount the converter inside the box. No LEDs yet

Seemed like every truck I had, I had to replace batteries. I used the big 1400 8D and there was no room for the part to stick inside the box. Your's probably has more room.

tobyS said:

Seemed like every truck I had, I had to replace batteries. I used the big 1400 8D and there was no room for the part to stick inside the box. Your's probably has more room.

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I run 2 group 31 batteries. Quite a bit of room with that set up left over. If it was super cold here all the time I'd never get away with it

Ben Roberts

a sidebar if I may.

Going to get batteries tomorrow.

Group 31, 950 CCA.

Is it enough for my m923a1?

(Missouri)

Thanks

Choppers said:

Ben Roberts

a sidebar if I may.

Going to get batteries tomorrow.

Group 31, 950 CCA.

Is it enough for my m923a1?

(Missouri)

Thanks

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Works fine in my a1 since 2016. You should be fine

Found one of my torque rods had both bushings pulled halfway out so I put a few safety tab style ends back in also got the accessorie outlet installed

I replaced the transmission oil in my M813 today. A few interesting (concerning?) observations:

1st- There were super-fine metal shavings on the drain plug...sort of a silvery sludge. No chunks, the fluid was in better shape than I expected, still very viscous.
I started hyperventilating about the metal shavings, but I found this thread that seems to indicate that it's fairly normal:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?57412-Metal-shavings-in-the-transmission/page2

2nd observation- I've read a lot of bad press about RRAD on the forums and the web in general. As I crawl around/in my truck, I've been hoping to avoid finding any RRAD tags on anything. Sure enough, after cleaning the tags on the transmission, I found a "refurbished" tag dated 3-72 (3 months before I was born!) from RRAD.

Now March 1972 is waaaaaay before the time of problems with 939's so maybe (hopefully) this is nothing to worry about. Run it 'til the gears fall out, I guess.

I've also been soaking the transfer case air hose connections with Kroil penetrant in preparation for the transfer case swap. I don't want to strip or mangle any air hose connections.
Once the new t-case is installed, I have enough new gear oil on hand to fill it up for a test drive.

Ajax MD said:

I replaced the transmission oil in my M813 today. A few interesting (concerning?) observations:

1st- There were super-fine metal shavings on the drain plug...sort of a silvery sludge. No chunks, the fluid was in better shape than I expected, still very viscous.
I started hyperventilating about the metal shavings, but I found this thread that seems to indicate that it's fairly normal:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?57412-Metal-shavings-in-the-transmission/page2

2nd observation- I've read a lot of bad press about RRAD on the forums and the web in general. As I crawl around/in my truck, I've been hoping to avoid finding any RRAD tags on anything. Sure enough, after cleaning the tags on the transmission, I found a "refurbished" tag dated 3-72 (3 months before I was born!) from RRAD.

Now March 1972 is waaaaaay before the time of problems with 939's so maybe (hopefully) this is nothing to worry about. Run it 'til the gears fall out, I guess.

I've also been soaking the transfer case air hose connections with Kroil penetrant in preparation for the transfer case swap. I don't want to strip or mangle any air hose connections.
Once the new t-case is installed, I have enough new gear oil on hand to fill it up for a test drive.

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Replace the air hoses for the transfer case from the transmission. chances are they arent in good shape. And to replace everything while its apart is much easier. You can simply get a few parker pushlok fittings and a few feet of hose. No hose clamps needed. Hose is rated to 320psi so it will last for years plus its alot more flexible than some old hose that may crack when you bend it and be an unseen leak except for thousands of little bubbles coming thru the cotton jacket

Smart idea, I'll look into it.

painfully painting away

BenRoberts said:

Found one of my torque rods had both bushings pulled halfway out so I put a few safety tab style ends back in View attachment 758948 View attachment 758949 also got the accessorie outlet installed View attachment 758950

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Interesting I just checked mine the other day and they all passed the test, by flexing them and they returned.

Just curious how difficult it was to remove as I was talking to a guy just the other day and he made it sound like they were super difficult and that was on a deuce and a half.

I fired it up and used it on Culvert clearing Duty with the fire hose and pump.

I also picked up a set of troop seats finally although I still need the little side boards in the headache rack.

I have more work to do with it and I'm debating whether I should remove the tank for the military swap meet in Plymouth next week...

I like the new color combination Elijah, will you be making the Denton rally?

Finally got an operable 7155 back in the truck. Appears to be working fine after some tweaks. Re did a bunch of wiring as well in the engine bay as well as the cab. Installed some new fuse blocks for the interior stuff and the exterior over running a bunch of inline fuses. Installed a new carter tank transfer pump. Recharged the Air Conditioning and installed a new compressor since mine had some pulley play. Went back with a NHC250 fan clutch and smaller fan. Just fabbed up a better fan shroud. I will probably move the radiator back some to give a better vacuum on it as well. Added some heat wrap to the downpipe as summer is coming. Installed a new treadle valve since someone on ebay was basically giving them away. Installed a new tach and speedo cable finally. Installed a replacement dipstick panel an tube as my dipstick didn't stay in the hole very well.

Redid the cab mount plate to the side plates with some 3/4" rubber inserts between it and the frame to give some better ride quality. Reset the engine mounts to 1/16" higher on the drivers side than passengers side.

Overall after the test drives everything seems to be alright fan clutch produces no noticeable noise or power loss. Transmission has a few hiccups but i believe with the mister turned up for a few days it should iron itself out.

Yeah, but what did you do that afternoon?