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M38A1 body numbers?

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
Hey Cannoneer,

My MD74431 is dated 7/54 and my MD75910 is dated 9/54. Unfortunately, the govm't destroyed the records when they were surplussed. Wes, at Willy's Military Jeeps is keeping records of members #'s, and can give you a general number range.
 

wilfreeman

Active member
1,082
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38
Location
Richburg, SC
Which ones, serial or hood? I'm not real sure about either, as I haven't really gotten into much of the history part yet - I'm still just restoring right now. I think they went up to 1964 production year, but I think those were USMC
 

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
Hey Cannoneer,

I was just doing some research on the willysmjeeps database and came up with a possible hood number for you. The acceptable method, if you don't have your real number, its to use the prefix for the time period plus your serial number. The prefix would be 2010 for late Dec. '53 through at least June '54 (the database has few 1954 hood numbers listed). It was 209 on earlier '53 models. The 20 stands for scout car. In '55 they changed it to a different system, starting with 2A----.

So, your hood number would be 201074786 - mine will be 201074431. This was something I've been meaning to research, as it will soon be time to order stencils for mine.
 

cannoneer172

New member
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Location
Plant City, Fl.
vin number

You seem to be a wealth of information, so, the tub number behind the seat, MD74786, the ORD SER NO 12272, or the MFR SER NO. 74085. Do you know which is the proper no. to use on the title? The State of Indiana used the no. 5734872661 for the vin number, and where they got that number, I have no idea. The ORD STOCK NO. is G-2758-8358319 DATE DEL 6/54. Indiana titled it as a 1962. This is my problem, I live in Florida and Florida will not change the title, Indiana has to and Indiana will not change the title without proof that it is a 1954. I can get law enforcement to give me an affidavid to the fact that the dash plaque states 1954, and they, Indiana, will change the date. I would like the new title to have the proper vin also. Do you know which is the proper vin no. to use?aua
 

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
I have no idea where that number came from unless it its on the side of the engine (casting # - I don't know what they would be). The plate behind the passengers seat is usually painted over and forgotten rather than changed out, so it is more than likely the original body number - unfortunately, it should match the dash serial number. So, you've got a dilemma here - use the dash plates that are always going to be seen (and possibly not be correct), or use the (more than likely) original number off of the plate behind the seat. That is .one problem with these m series vehicles - it only takes 2 minutes to make them a completely different vehicle! Both of your numbers would be 1954 - possibly both 6/54. The title on one of mine used the motor number (stamped on the front of the engine behind the water pump), which was RMD something or another - I didn't have too much trouble getting it changed to MD in South Carolina. Good luck on that!
 
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cannoneer172

New member
7
0
0
Location
Plant City, Fl.
vin number

You seem to be a wealth of information, so, the tub number behind the seat, MD74786, the ORD SER NO 12272, or the MFR SER NO. 74085. Do you know which is the proper no. to use on the title? The State of Indiana used the no. 5734872661 for the vin number, and where they got that number, I have no idea. The ORD STOCK NO. is G-2758-8358319 DATE DEL 6/54. Indiana titled it as a 1962. This is my problem, I live in Florida and Florida will not change the title, Indiana has to and Indiana will not change the title without proof that it is a 1954. I can get law enforcement to give me an affidavid to the fact that the dash plaque states 1954, and they, Indiana, will change the date. I would like the new title to have the proper vin also. Do you know which is the proper vin no. to use?aua
 

cannoneer172

New member
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Location
Plant City, Fl.
one step at a time SGT.

Thanks again I will go with one or the other, probably the dash number as it contains the delivery date and have a repo tub placque made to the same number so they both match. Brian's Military Jeeps states that the tub is the vin number, maybe I should use that one? I just do not know, looks like I should have done more homework before I bought a Jeep. You list parst vehicles, would you be willing to sell any parts I will need?
 

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
Yeah, just keep the other plate and let the next owner decide for himself - personally, I'd rather have original dash plates than repop ones - they look much better and makes the Jeep seem more original. But, since your title doesn't go with either number, the choice is yours. I would say the tub number is the original also, so you could go that way and get some new dash plates and get your title to match. That would also be the safer route to take, in case someone else has a jeep with the title to your dash plate number.

If you want a 100% original, show Jeep, yes, you want to start out with a 90% original one. But, I think all mismatched HMVs should be saved too. I payed waaay too much for my first 'a1, and ended up putting waaay too much in it to bring it back to 90% complete (not original) condition. Just a year ago I bought a 'parts' Jeep for $300 that was more original and complete than my first one (not to mention in about the same condition body wise). Live and learn, I guess!

I have a few parts I could sell, as I really don't want to tear such a complete vehicle apart. I haven't completely ruled out restoring it, but will probably sell it whole. I have pretty good luck posting want ads on Steelsoldiers, willysmjeeps and g503.com. I've also bought plenty off of eBay and at MV shows.

Hope I helped, instead of confused, you!
 

anotherandy

New member
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Location
Lillington, NC
I have an m38a1 with the serial number md79150 on the patents tag behind the passenger seat. It has a hinged grill and a clip-on battery box lid. Anyone know how I could find a year of production or delivery? I couldn't find any other data plates.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
I have an m38a1 with the serial number md79150 on the patents tag behind the passenger seat. It has a hinged grill and a clip-on battery box lid. Anyone know how I could find a year of production or delivery? I couldn't find any other data plates.
Look at post 4. Based on that data, looks like Willys was cranking out about 1500 jeeps per month. So your is about 3240 jeeps after serial 75910, or 11/54 give or take.

You should not have a hinged grille though.
 

jnissen

Member
42
28
18
Location
Austin/TX
Sorry to post to older threads but I just joined and saw this. I have a 1955 and the original tub serial number plate I have is MD74784. Only two numbers earlier than yours. Mine is a July 1955 model from what I can tell. My engine number is a different number and from what I understand that is not all that unusual. I have zero idea what the hood numbers were for the one I have. Did yours have hood numbers? I agree if you have a hinged grill that is an earlier grill.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Jinissen. Best way to find hood numbers, espec if it has the hood still, is to just carefully wet sand the hood or rear bumperets. The original numbers were painted on, latter were sticker
 

jnissen

Member
42
28
18
Location
Austin/TX
Unfortunately the hood was sanded bare as we tried to remove carefully but got nothing. We are going with a contrived number that seems to be in the range for that year and approximate month. 20974784. 20 for the prefix of a 1/4 ton, the 9 was seen in original period correct time frame photos for the army and the last digits are the plate behind the seat!
 
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