Engine Replacement Pointers?

I've finally got my replacement engine a few weeks back and now have arranged some time over the holidays to perform the swap...

Can those with experience make some suggestions to make the process easier?

I'll be working in my farm shop with comcrete floors (a blessing!), good lighting, air-tools and using a Dresser front-end loader to lift/manipulate. This is a one monkey show around here basically so I need advice... Is it possible to pull the whole front clip or is it easier in pieces? Any service better done with the engine out? Try to leave the trans on trans jack or just pull it all? Any do's/don'ts?

All input is appreciated.

Thanks!

The TM's show pulling the engine and tranny together. I would remove the radiator just to be safe (it can come out with the power pack). The fenders come off one at a time, not too hard to do. I would recruit help when you set the old engine out/set the new one back in. The rest should be fairly much a one man job.
Ask Kenny Engle (recovery4x4). He has a lot of recent deuce engine change experience.

I have pulled and installed my old and new engine's in that order one pulling the tranny off before hand makes it a lot easier
two make sure you get all the wires and hose's O missed one three having the fenders off helps a lot, if your
going to paint the front of the frame do with the engine out, need seals in your steering box do it then if you need any more
questions answered quick Pm me.

I've done them all different ways and my preferred method is removing the entire powerpack as a unit. I'll never pull one with the fenders on again, so much nicer with them off and worth the effort. Once the powerpack is on the ground I start seperating components. RDM suggests pulling the radiator and this is probably a good suggestion but truth be known, I don't do it. It its a winch truck, pull the winch. If its not a winch truck, pull the bumper. There are 2 different front crossmembers. If its the one riveted to the frame, the fit is very tight. The other one can be unbolted and makes the change very easy. Just take your time and triple check your connections before you start lifting. You have at least 3 ground straps in 3 locations to deal with.

Forgot to say, remove the air filter housing from the firewall, makes it easier.

I swapped one last Jan and left the fenders on. I won't do that again. I did one in may and removed the fenders and it went a lot smoother. It was a lot easier to get the rear motor mount bolts to line up and get the shifter under the firewall.
I just swapped my M52's cab and engine on thanksgiving weekend and dropping it into place took about 45 seconds with the cab off and a 5ton wrecker. But pulling the cab is going too far. I had a replacement that came from howards with no rust.

When I install my engine I removed the fenders, radiator, bumper and all sheet metal associated with the headlights. Left the hood on pulled engine with the transmission minus the shifter took a heavy piece of cardboard and bolted over the shifter hole. Used a 2 ton cherry picker to pull it out and install the new one. I had and would stress that you have help.