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M35a3 CTIS Removal Question

hfd239

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Huntington
I'm a mechanic for a fire district and we had just purchased a m35a3 for high water rescues. I have heard nothing to positive about the "leaky" CTIS system and was wondering what are the steps to remove this. I'm sure this question has been asked before but I couldn't find a straight answer. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great. Thank you.
 

hot rod deuce

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Kasota, Mn
I found that most of the O-rings in the wheels are rusty and tend to be 1/2 the problem. I usually plan on putting new O-rings in. Then I replace the valve stem with a more standard unit and take all the crap off the wheels. Also un-plug the box in the dash and call it a day. But that is just me....
 

Rustygears

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Ramona, CA
All one 'needs' to do is disconnect the cable from the controller at the CTIS manifold under the truck (pax side, center) to fully disable CTIS. The system has no truck air pressurization when not operating.

To dispel a common myth, the most common source of A3 tire leaks is not due to the rim O-rings, but instead the round rubber grommet that seals the metal air fill stem into the stock A3 rim. These little gems rot out and leak, requiring the tire to be fully dismounted from the rim to replace. Lots of other threads and posts on this. The wheel valves seldom leak and they have a schrader (tire chuck) valve for manual filling already. One could remove the plastic fittings between the wheel valve to the rim fill stem and replace it with a reducing fitting and then install a schrader there, allowing removal of all the whell valve and other plumbing. It's 3/8" NPT as I recall - check my other posts and you'll see the fitting size.

Regardless of whether you remove CTIS or not, which is almost a 'Ford or Chevy' type argument, for reliability, please do make sure to disassemble each rim and fully service them by replacing the grommets and properly lube them up with Syl-Glyde cream (not spray) before re-installation and then torque the brass nut per spec. I replaced the rim O-rings at the same time, but this was more PM than repair. It will stop the slow leaks when the truck is parked, regardless of whether CTIS is there or not.
 
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trukhead

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dane/wi
Will a functioning CTIS keep water out of the Hubs and wheel bearings by virtue of the pressure top inflate the tires?

If you do deep water fording how do you keep water out of the axles center housing, transfer case and the transmission?

Will a low presure air cicuit (1-5 psi) do this, perhaps fabbed from a air tool regulator and fittings?

Will positive presure in the transmission cause it to weep fluid past the seals and starve for tranny fluid?

:drool:
 
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