Calling all Generator Owners

Speddmon said:

What I want to do now that I have the power is to get all of the ideas from you guys about what you would look for when purchasing a generator especially from GL. And what you would recomment be done FIRST thing after you get it home. As well as helpful tips for new owners that they should know/do to keep their new purchase running and happy..

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One thing I do is to run both my MEP-018 and MEP-003 at least every other month for about an hour under varying loads to keep all the moving parts free and let the moisture burn off both in the engine and generator head. Also mix 200:1 2 cycle fuel oil in with the diesel for the MEP-003 to help lubricate the ip because of the USLD.

Pre bid inspection:
If you can see it in person, that is best, otherwise look carefully at pictures and video. What you are looking for:
1. Are all the parts there (batteries are usually gone)?
2. Can you still read the signs and placards? Are they bleached out from too many hours in the sun?
3. Is there still lettering painted on the tank and other places or has it mostly been painted over? If there is no painted lettering, then it may have been a while since it was refurbished.
4. How rusty is it? Note: all the GL people pressure wash or steam clean these units with some pretty harsh chemicals. The chemicals and lack of oil makes all of the bolts and all unpainted surfaces rust. The chemicals also bleach out the paint, signs and placards.
5. Are the hoses OK? Look particularly at the fuel line going from the fuel pumps to the injector pump. Is it cracked or painted?
6. Look at the injector pump. Is it painted? If not, someone may have worked on it recently.
7. Open the top and look at the head bolts and glow plugs. How rusty are they?
8. Open the fuel tank cap and pull out the strainer. Lots of water and rust? May need a new tank, or the tank may have to be acid cleaned and lined with a plastic coating. Most tanks have a good ¼ inch of dirt in the bottom that hides the heavy rust that is probably there.
9. Look at the gages. Are they reasonably clean and readable?
10. Look at the back of the control box. Are there new nuts and bolts holding on some components (look particularly at the center top area for four new nuts and bolts that may be holding on a new frequency transducer)? Open the front and check inside if you can.
11. Look at the fuel filter and oil filter housings. Are they just barely hanging on? If so, they were drained, and you may have a water problem.
12. Check the dipstick to see if there is oil in the crankcase. Oil is good.
13. Check to see if there is a new fuel pump installed. No paint would be a clue.
14. Check to see if you can push the injector pump linkage up with your fingers. If you can't, then lift up on the shut off solonoid and try again. If the linkage will not move, then it is likely that the injector pump has problems.

Prep for first start assuming no problems:
1. Remove and clean the fuel pump filters
2. Clean the fuel water separator.
3. Change out the fuel filters.
4. Check to see that the crankcase is full of oil. If there is no oil, change the oil filter and fill the crankcase with oil.
5. Remove the fuel tank (Eventually, take out the float switch, the suction dip tube, the strainer, the fuel level gage assembly, and the drain valve. Take the tank to a (radiator) shop for cleaning and lining.)
6. Use a separate tank/jug to run from by installing the suction dip tube and a piece of Tygon tubing on the end of the return line (put the tank elbow on the return line, and then just push some tubing over the fitting’s thread).
7. Check the air filter to see if it is in, and clean enough to run with for a short while.
8. Install two identical batteries.
9. Ground the unit to prevent electrocution.
10. Start the fuel filters and make sure that fuel is returning to the tank. This may take some time if the fuel filters are dry to begin with. Clicking of the pumps will slow significantly when the fuel is running back to the tank as it should.
11. Start the engine. Unlike an old car, the switch can be held in the start position even when the engine is running without doing any real harm. Release the switch when the engine starts and is running well.
12. Look for leaks, good oil pressure (30-35lbs when hot), and exhaust smoke.
13. Adjust the governor so that you are generating at 60Hz
14. Check voltage and adjust as needed.
15. Check to be sure the DC system is charging the batteries correctly.

I would like to note the above inspection / start up seems to apply mostly to MEP-002 and MEP-003 models, and may not apply as well to others, for example the MEP-016b and MEP-016e use single batteries and have a fiberglass fuel tank with no strainer in the top, there is also no oil pressure gauge on these models. Also the frequency transponder is mounted on the right side of the control box when viewed from the front.

Ike

This thread is going to be very helpful, I'm going to look at an MEP-002a mounted on a trailer this weekend

nice inspection list

the 016 wiki stuff looks good, you may want to mention the L-70s are on the D's and the L-100's are on the E's (at least that is the way all of the ones I have seen are), it may also be worth noting that there seems to be a bit of variation on the D and E retrofit models when it comes to electric start, batteries on board and fuel tank.

Ike

p.s. I think the dry weight listed on my MEP-701a is 525 pounds will try to check in the morning

It is raining this morning, but I will try to get out to the back yard and see what the data plate on mine says soon.

Ike

ps checked, you were right, manual says empty weight 532 full 590

i'm far from an expert, but i would emphasize a couple things from cobrabrat's list. i'm assuming you are considering a GL purchase.

IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, PERSONALLY INSPECT THE GEN BEFORE BIDDING!!! i would not consider buying one based on the pictures GL posts!

when i bought mine, GL had probably 20 for sale at the same time/site. i went and looked every one over, taking note of deficiencies for each serial number. most had SOME issues. many of them were fairly minor, but they all add up.

in particular, you want to examine the fuel system as best you can. specifically - open the tank and look inside with a flashlight. rusty? could be a MAJOR PITA to rectify. i wasn't willing to deal with that problem, so ANY significant rust and i ruled that unit out. not sure how you could examine/test the glow plugs/intake heater.

are the fuel filter cans (holders / whatever you want to call them) all there? is the engine oil filter can/holder there? the units my father and i ended up buying were missing the spring inside the oil filter can. surprisingly expensive parts to buy from delks ($30 or something insane).

is the injection pump actually there? if not, again, i was not willing to source one (BIG $$) and then install/time it. see the many threads on needing timing buttons. are the fuel hoses in place and in decent shape?

does the throttle linkage move easily? if not, fixing / replacing it probably isn't a huge deal, but it could be indicative of a IP problem - see above.

many/most(?) are trailer mounted. are you going to tow it home? better bring a small compressor as the tires will likely be flat. are the tires in decent shape or safe enough to tow home on? do you have the necessary towing pieces? a pintle hitch and some way to get brake lights? i bought an el cheapo trailer light kit from harbor freight with magnetic brake/running lights. pintle hitch height may be an issue depending on tow vehicle. my 003 was perfect hooked up to a straight draw bar on my modern dually. a compact pickup or small SUV will probably be quite low.

is the exhaust taped closed? don't want water in there...

pull the engine oil dipstick - anything on it? all of the GL units i've seen were emptied, but the units we bought had a trace of oil on the end of the dipstick. some clearly had WATER in them!

are the battery terminals/wires visible and in reasonable shape? is the 'jumper' from one batt to the other there?

some folks have gotten the ground rod that is supposed to go with the units, but it seems like most don't have them (mine did not). i think there was also supposed to be a hose to run from the aux fuel input to a drum, but again, mine did not have it.

are the gauges fogged up? is the hour meter way newer than the rest of them (ie probably shouldn't be trusted).

is there a rebuild plate above the original serial number plate? it seems a good portion of the units being auctioned off were taken out of the field, rebuilt, then put in a warehouse. the two we got showed somewhere around 2(!) hours on them, which of course, seems impossible. but they were rebuilt in 2008 (tier 2 reset), and appear to actually be nearly new in almost all respects.

i think you have to go in eyes open; that is, there are quite a few things you simply cannot check in a GL site. there is risk involved. people have gotten some with cracked heads, cracked blocks, dead gen heads, blown VR, etc. a good portion of them need filters, batteries, engine oil, and diesel, and they fire right up. on mine, the battery charging VR was dead. on my dad's, the oil pressure sender was bad. if you simply can't stomach the potential for buying a dud, buy one that has been gone through and tested from sewerzuk or another private party.

ahm

I would like to find a Hard copy TM for my Rig "PU 794/G" I have the TM's on disc, but would like to have the hard copy also.
This site has been a great help. Thanks

It has been a long time since I have messed around with my 10 kw gas trailer mounted units, but I remember the TM making a big deal out of grounding the trailer before starting the unit.

This thread was a good idea; the results should be very helpful.

I recommend that potential purchasers download and read all the applicable TMs (including those for the trailer if applicable) prior to purchase, and also read this sticky, the Wiki and all of the posts in this section of the Forum. By performing these actions, a potential buyer will then fully appreciate the nature and extent of the risks involved, even if contemplating purchasing a low hour Tier 2 reset unit. They will also fully appreciate the amount and quality of the assistance the membership of this site can provide if they encounter challenges. I believe that contemplating the acquisition of one of these generators with both eyes completely open to the very real possibility of some serious wrenching and parts procurement challenges is the most appropriate attitude for any potential purchaser to have. Once they are armed with the knowledge obtained from following the advice above, I also think any potential buyer pursuing this route of obtaining emergency back-up electrical power should evaluate how much confidence they have in their ability to conquer whatever challenges may arise post-purchase. A potential purchaser without the mechanical and electrical skills required to conquer the worst-case scenario should realize prior to purchase that they could ultimately be saddled with an expensive lawn ornament. Forewarned is forearmed. There are risks, but for those potential purchasers with the skill set needed to purchase wisely and correct any issues post-purchase, these units are very likely the most rugged and reliable back-up electrical generators currently available.

Scott,
The PU 794 shows as an MEP-004A generator so you need to look for the TM for that unit. Also check with the 'print on demand' sites to see what they charge to get you a hard copy. Might be cheaper than you think!

An additional item for pre-purchase inspection:

All units: Can the engine be turned through gently by hand?

Gasser units have a rope sheave. It doesn't get much easier than that.

MEP-002A/003A: Remove plastic plug from center of blower grille and stick a socket in (I forget what size) Engine can be turned (clockwise only) by hand. Though it's a diesel it is easy to turn through by hand. Binding anywhere in two revolutions is grounds for more inspection or a rejection.


First startup procedure for MEP-002A/003A units - probably bigger ones, too if you have any worries about a stuck injection pump:

1. clean and prep fuel system as previously directed
2. Fill the last fuel filter with a detergent/solvent compatible with diesel fuel systems (Marvel Mystery oil or any of the cleaning diesel fuel additives should work) when you install it.
3. crack the bleed nut on top of the first fuel filter (middle can on a MEP-002A/3A) (do not remove nut unless you want a diesel fuel shower).
4. Follow the priming procedure in the TM, which for the MEP-002A/003A involves throwing the switch to prime/run and waiting for fuel to come out the cracked nut. Pump sound should change from chattering to clicking about 2/second or so. You should be able to hear both pumps clicking asynchronously.
5. Tighten the bleed nut until fuel stops coming out. IF clicking stops, you have a clogged fuel return.
6. turn switch to off after no more than about 15 seconds of pump run time after filter was primed.
7. you have now primed the injection pump with a cleaner solvent.
8. Wait at least 24 hours. Warmer temperatures are better
9. Check engine for free motion as above
10. Start generator per TM procedure.

I didn't come up with this procedure, but I did follow it for my own unit when I got it. It was specifically recommended by somebody here (sorry, don't remember who) as a way to free up the injector pump plunger before trying to start the engine.

I have a few MEP-002-003 and a 701.

Jerry, aka storeman is the man around here with the MEP. I am surprised he has not chimed in.

I know I am WAY behind on getting this thread put together and a "sticky" made, but I promise I have not forgotten about it. Life sometimes manages to get in the way of our hobby

The socket used for turning the engine over is 5/8th. I must say i read the wiki before I got my 2a and is was of great help.

Somehow I missed this when first posted. I'd like to see an understandable governor/speed adjustment guide. It causes me problems and probably led me to scrap more than one potential runners.

That's a good idea Jerry, I'll put that in the back of my mind when I get around to doing the sticky. It's actually an easy process, but you need to have a known good speed reference (Either a tach or good Frequency meter) and a way to load it down to 100%. Once you have those 2 things it is pretty easy.