Trying to get two m220's running after a long rest

Under item #2 consider that the clutch disks may be rusted to the flywheel. Somtimes you think you have the drive line "disconnected" from the engine, but it is not and attempts to turn the engine over are really attempts to move the entire vehicle.

Under item #3 I find upper cylinder cleaner products work the best for me. Barring something like a spun bearing or broken rod blocking movement, one usually finds the rings stuck to the cylinder walls. Given our new enviromental limits on chemical products it is getting harder to find things that will cut the "rust, gunk and exhaust deposits". If you can find some products that contain Butyl Cellusolve to put in the cylinders and soak a while, you should be able to free up stuck rings as well as clean off the valve stems and seats. This stuff will smoke when you finally fire up the engine.

Goog luck on the restart

If the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel, a long crowbar can fix that, at least temporarily. I remember a Four Wheeler article from years back when they bought a old flat-fender jeep that was sitting for 30 years, and they opened the clutch inspection plate, inserted crowbar and pried like heck. Might not be great for use, but will get the two separated for the drive back home.

maddawg308 said:

If the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel, a long crowbar can fix that, at least temporarily. I remember a Four Wheeler article from years back when they bought a old flat-fender jeep that was sitting for 30 years, and they opened the clutch inspection plate, inserted crowbar and pried like heck. Might not be great for use, but will get the two separated for the drive back home.

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That or getting transmissions into neutral or dropping driveshafts. The closer to the engine you can get with the disconnects, the less drag you get from other fluids gone solid or other rusted together things like brake shoes to drums. (That one took me for ever to figure out why I could not get it to move.)

Put a mixture of ATF and PB Blaster in the cylinders of M220 #2 this morning.

Thanks for the replies on the clutch and the butyl cellosolve.

Luckily, trans is free and moves through the gears, neutral is easy to find.

Did some searching on butyl cellosolve. Found info from Dow Chem on it. Apparently found in a number of different products. Will look locally for some.

Jack

I hate to admit how old I am, but my first encounter with that chemical was more than 50 years ago and it was a major componet of several upper cylinder cleaners. the prescribed use was to pour it in the fuel tank and drive the vehicle normally. However, my mechanic grandfather showed me how to pour some directly in the spark plug holes (plug the holes) and let things soak. There are later products that will work, but I never found anything that worked as well.

PB Blaster and ATF may well do the trick for you. Remember #1.

M220 #1 moves closer to the shop





We pulled Boyce #1 out of the cellar today and pulled it over to the shop. Then we hooked on to the back of M220 #1 and pulled it in too. It came in backwards because that was the safest approach. Steering felt tight. It was only a short pull, maybe 200 yards, but it was good to sit in the seat and turn the wheel!

I've now got two of the trucks close enough to the shop that I can get electricity and water to them.

I'm just about finished with the prep work on these two. Getting ready to put in battery(ies) and see if anything smokes, which is why I wanted them close to water.

If nothing smokes, then we'll push the button and see if they turn. If they turn, then we'll see if we can squirt some gas in and get some combustion.

I'm taking this slowly. If you have some advice for this part of the process, call it out, I'm grateful for all help and suggestions.

I think you are doing fine and moving right along. With that many potentials to work with some things just have to go well.

Oldfart said:

I think you are doing fine and moving right along. With that many potentials to work with some things just have to go well.

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Thank you sir. Appreciate your help and support!

Wow! We did not know Boyce ever made a custom front clip/cab for the GMC's. I thought they only made them for the M35's. Very cool, some more pics of the Boyce cab if you can. I did not recognize the truck at all.

Gunfreak25 said:

Wow! We did not know Boyce ever made a custom front clip/cab for the GMC's. I thought they only made them for the M35's. Very cool, some more pics of the Boyce cab if you can. I did not recognize the truck at all.

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The cab's full of years of debris from critters and such. I'll get it cleaned up on Monday and get some pics. I'll post them on the Boyce Reman thread.

I can tell you that the original military dash is gone, replaced by a fiberglass dash with a full complement of Stewart-Warner gauges.

targhee trucks said:

The clutch system on these trucks consists of two cylinders, one mounted on the outside of the frame underneath the drivers door and one mounted to the bell housing. The clutch pedal is attached to the frame mounted cylinder and a steel line runs from it to the one mounted on the bellhousing. The bellhousing cylinder actuates the clutch.

Both are frozen on both trucks, so I'm guessing probably rusted and pitted inside and will need to be replaced. Anyone recognize the cylinders? Source for new ones?

Jack

Frame mounted cylinder

Bellhousing mounted cylinder

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pic 1 looks like the clutch master cylinder on my old 61 chevy 1/2t pu

pic22 looks likes the clutch slave cylinder on the same truck,

as late as late 90s I could still get both rebuild kits as well as NEW for both parts, I would try napa, ask for 61 chevy pu 1/2t hyd clutch slave system parts, brake fluid is used, there is a bleeder on the clutch slave unit

pic 2 shows the slave unit mounted upside down (can't be blead), I see why this was done (line routing), it mounts on the LEFT side of the bell housing on the 61 chevy pu

73m819 said:

pic 1 looks like the clutch master cylinder on my old 61 chevy 1/2t pu

pic2 looks likes the clutch slave cylinder on the same truck,

as late as late 90s I could still get both rebuild kits as well as NEW for both parts, I would try napa, ask for 61 chevy 1/2t hyd clutch slave system parts, brake fluid is used, there is a bleeder on the clutch slave unit

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Excellent, thanks for that! Yes, bleeder on the slave unit on these trucks too.

Jack

they look SO much alike the 61 pu parts, I will bet you that in fact that that was the intended ORIGINAL use.

73m819 said:

they look SO much alike the 61 pu parts, I will bet you that in fact that that was the intended ORIGINAL use.

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I just googled 61 p u master and slave clutch cylinders. O'reillys showed rebuild kits for both and a new slave cylinder. I think you just made this project of mine a lot easier.

Thanks again!

Custom dash too? Don't give me any ideas. I don't want to see it. Kidding. I want to see it. I need to see it.

When you install the clutch unit, flip it over so the bleeder is on top, other wise you will end up with a mushy clutch pedal, extend the line if needed

MAKE sure the the master cylinder is for the clutch and NOT the brakes

Watch your fuel tanks. The pumps are electric and expensive! If the tanks are full of corrosion, disconnect them or clean them first. I've had good luck with a clean lawnmower gas tank gravity feeding from the roof to get things started. Then you can see what you have and work back from there. I assume your like me and cannot wait to start at the other end. Remember to disconnect and tape the wires going to the fuel pump or you will pump gas or some other stinky substance all over and possibly start fire. I would really drain the fuel tank first.
Heck, You never know, maybe everything will be good and fire up!
keep your extinguisher close an any rate.

hendersond said:

Watch your fuel tanks. The pumps are electric and expensive!

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Good call, thanks! I've got the power disconnected from the gas tank on M220 #1. And while I was doing the prep work on M220 #1, I found that the fuel shut off valve mounted to the frame in the engine compartment still turns, not frozen, so it's shut off too. Boyce #1 has a manual pump. I didn't see any power wires going to the tank. Haven't looked for a shutoff on Boyce #1 yet. (Edit: I wonder if the electric pump is still in the tank? I wonder if it still works? That would be a nice bonus.)

I like the lawn mower gas tank idea.

You're right about the tanks: nasty, smelly, mystery stuff in both.

Question: What's the best way to clean the tanks? Fill and drain, or take them off and flush them out somehow?

Quote:
"Question: What's the best way to clean the tanks? Fill and drain, or take them off and flush them out somehow?"

Ask 20 people and I bet you get at least 12 different answers. The other 8 eight will be "Take it to someone else"

I think the tanks are coated with lead or solder on some. I had 2 coated and 2 others rustier than heck.

The coated tanks I drained, took off the truck, removed the pumps, and strapped in the back of my daily driven pick up. Oh yea, I put 2 gallons of Toluene in them and drove (sloshed) around last winter for 2 days. Then disposed of it properly at a body shop. Clean as a whistle. Toluol may be the other name for it. It is an industrial paint thinner. Used to be in old carb cleaners a few years back. Be careful, it has a flash point of +39F. (Gasoline is -45F) I'm sure there are safer ways, but it worked for me.

I tried xylene, but it did not cut the varnish very well.

I'm still looking at the rusty ones, trying to figure out how not to spend a bunch of money.

The bottom of my tank has a galvanized type finish. The rest of the tank has flash rusting on the walls but nothing i'm concerned over. I am running a 2 micron diesel racor filter on the 6.2.