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LEO/FD HMMWV Check List & Part Numbers

TedG

Well-known member
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48
Location
MI USA
Attention new m998/hmmwv owners:
I thought I remind new owners that as mentioned in this sticky, there is a control box and harness you do NOT want to use. The control box and harness is made by LAU and the harness is 6110-01-446-7124, #12379865. I have seen them for sale on e-a- and they should be avoided.
 

johnpp77

New member
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SD
I have been hunting for glow plugs for my 6.5L and have looked hi and low. No one seems to post a actual working numbers for a real 24V Glow Plug so I thought I would share my findings. Good luck with a parts store finding anything. I called the manufacturer and Wellman is sold under Diesel RX brand. The number is DRX00115 this has the bullet connector and is 24V anti swelling. This plug is not self regulating so it is possible to fry it. If you can find them the AC - 15G is the other correct number with the GM5614017 number for real 24V glow plugs. I do believe that the AC15G is discontinued you may find new old stock. The only manufacture that I can find still making 24V bullet connector glow plugs is Wellman/Diesel RX.

The numbers AC-62, 11, 9 may fit but to my understanding they are all 12V and will not work. I could be wrong... I believe these are all spade connectors so you would have to do some wiring conversion from bullet type connector to spade.

So find some DRX00115 for your HMMWV 24V system. I am pretty sure this is what people are selling.

Anyone know of other options with part numbers?
 

johnpp77

New member
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Location
SD
I got my boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts last month when I had a tore boot. Look up boots for a 1993 to 1998 Mercury Villager they look exactly like stock and fit perfect. Now word of advice do not remove the outer joint as you will brake the snap ring on the outside of the shaft. These kits will not come with a new snap ring. The new boot kits form kascar or another HMMWV place will come with both snap rings in the outer boot kit. I got lucky and after going to 6 auto parts stores on guy had a set of axle half shaft snap rings collecting dust in the back and one worked. So disassemble the inner cv end and remove the boots by sliding the outer boot off the shaft that way. No broken snap rings and boots get fixed. You will need a CV strap clamper, the twist kind.

You can also buy new axles from your local Sturdavents Store
Right Front NCV82075 28 9/16"
EDIT: (I had the wrong number here. It is correct now) Left Front NCV82074 23 3/16"
Rear both NCV82999 26 1/2" Compressed

I personally know the rear from this company has to be 26 1/2" stock to work. I called the company and when they first started making these they were 2 inches long. So if you order a rear using this part number if it is really old stock in the warehouse it will be to long. Have them measure the compressed length of the half shaft first before they ship it to you. They are around $100 bucks plus shipping and new. Worked for my 89' M998.
 
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johnpp77

New member
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Location
SD
I was looking through my notes and I found this. Inner Boot O'Reilly number 614-002, Outer Boot 614-001 These numbers should be correct for the Half shaft inner and outer boots.

EDIT: This is for the 10K half shaft not the HD ones.
 
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johnpp77

New member
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Location
SD
Other Items on my notes list. My Power Steering gear was leaking oil so I needed to change that out. I called everywhere and they could find them but no stock anywhere.
Power Steering Gear:
MasterPro 504-0107
AC Delco 3600167

Again I am not 100% sure anymore on these numbers but that's what was on my notes it that helps anyone.
 

dskupi01

Member
39
5
8
Location
Detroit, mi
There’s one edit I would recommend. Although the wix51061 oil filter funtions, it does not have the anti drain back feature (back flow preventor). The wix 51060 has this feature. I’ve found the time for the oil pressure to pump up on startup is significantly longer with the 51061 filter after leaving overnight with 15w40 oil. I didn’t time it, but several seconds longer each start. Presumably, some oil drains back from the gallery. Not sure if this means my oil pressure regulator stuck? I see no reason to starve the oil pressure to the main/rod bearings if not needed. Given both are typically stocked at auto stores carrying wix, i’d only ever use the wix 51060 (if wix is your choice). The anti backflow in the 51060 holds the oil in the galleries, and oil pressure pumps up much faster.
 
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ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Houston Texas
For V-belts with 4 belts and a 60AMP Gen.
PS Gates 7500
Alt Gates 7640.
For U-joints the front drive shaft on mine were smaller than the rear drive shaft. The bearing cup diameters are the same but the cross is shorter on the front shaft.
FRONT Spicer 5-5153X 3 EA
Carrier Bearing Spicer 211415X
Rear Spicer 5-213X
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Houston Texas
6.2 and 6.5 NA Exhaust flange donut gaskets:
Fel-Pro 60556 Manifold to Y-Pipe 2 Each
Fel-Pro 60718 Y-Pipe to muffler pipe. 1 Each.
 

StackJ

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
172
-2
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Location
SoCal
Can we roll these up into the top document? Can the top document state last updated? (I do this at work as well.)
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,480
24
38
Location
Houston Texas
Can we roll these up into the top document? Can the top document state last updated? (I do this at work as well.)
In the Duece section we have a spread sheet. It has helped me a lot over the years. If we had one for Humvees we could save a lot of time and money. If someone has already spent the time digging through the manual and knows a part number the next guy might save hours searching. It might also eliminate a lot posts asking for parts. And a lot of replies telling guys to read the manual.
 

mdes0

Member
42
2
8
Location
Brookline NH
NCV82999 too long

I got my boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts last month when I had a tore boot. Look up boots for a 1993 to 1998 Mercury Villager they look exactly like stock and fit perfect. Now word of advice do not remove the outer joint as you will brake the snap ring on the outside of the shaft. These kits will not come with a new snap ring. The new boot kits form kascar or another HMMWV place will come with both snap rings in the outer boot kit. I got lucky and after going to 6 auto parts stores on guy had a set of axle half shaft snap rings collecting dust in the back and one worked. So disassemble the inner cv end and remove the boots by sliding the outer boot off the shaft that way. No broken snap rings and boots get fixed. You will need a CV strap clamper, the twist kind.

You can also buy new axles from your local Sturdavents Store
Right Front NCV82075 28 9/16"
EDIT: (I had the wrong number here. It is correct now) Left Front NCV82074 23 3/16"
Rear both NCV82999 26 1/2" Compressed

I personally know the rear from this company has to be 26 1/2" stock to work. I called the company and when they first started making these they were 2 inches long. So if you order a rear using this part number if it is really old stock in the warehouse it will be to long. Have them measure the compressed length of the half shaft first before they ship it to you. They are around $100 bucks plus shipping and new. Worked for my 89' M998.
I tried a pair of the NCV82999 rear halfshaft from Advanced Auto Parts for my 91 m998 and they are way too long. They are 28 7/8s compressed. I looked up the part number and all the manufacturers I can find online e, like GSP, show this length as correct. Any idea how these would fit in any Humvee\Hummer? Was there some change to the portals or something that would warrant such a long halfshaft for the rears?
Don't want to buy epay crap again, has been a complete waste of time and money.
 

steelwarriors

New member
4
1
0
Location
Belmont, NC
I got my boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts last month when I had a tore boot. Look up boots for a 1993 to 1998 Mercury Villager they look exactly like stock and fit perfect. Now word of advice do not remove the outer joint as you will brake the snap ring on the outside of the shaft. These kits will not come with a new snap ring. The new boot kits form kascar or another HMMWV place will come with both snap rings in the outer boot kit. I got lucky and after going to 6 auto parts stores on guy had a set of axle half shaft snap rings collecting dust in the back and one worked. So disassemble the inner cv end and remove the boots by sliding the outer boot off the shaft that way. No broken snap rings and boots get fixed. You will need a CV strap clamper, the twist kind.

You can also buy new axles from your local Sturdavents Store
Right Front NCV82075 28 9/16"
EDIT: (I had the wrong number here. It is correct now) Left Front NCV82074 23 3/16"
Rear both NCV82999 26 1/2" Compressed

I personally know the rear from this company has to be 26 1/2" stock to work. I called the company and when they first started making these they were 2 inches long. So if you order a rear using this part number if it is really old stock in the warehouse it will be to long. Have them measure the compressed length of the half shaft first before they ship it to you. They are around $100 bucks plus shipping and new. Worked for my 89' M998.

Came here to get some info on the GSP Axles. I called them and SP Only sells the 8k variety. Found them on Summit for cheap and looks like they ship direct from GSP.
Front Left.NCV82074


Front Right
NCV82075


Rears
NCV82999

Those are the part numbers GSP gave me
 

mdes0

Member
42
2
8
Location
Brookline NH
My 91 came with 7k's, the replacements were supposed to be 10k's and did not fit. All the half shafts, 7, 10, and 12k's are the same length as far as I am aware. 7 and 10s are interchangeable with no mods and going with 12's requires changing the upper gear in the portal. I am no expert so I could be wrong but from everything I have read the compressed length for the rear half shafts is 26.5. The shafts I got with part number NCV82999 where 28 7/8.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Houston Texas
I wonder if you got one that was boxed wrong. That has happened to me over the years. Did they refund your money? Replace it with the correct one? Wheat did you end up using?
My 91 came with 7k's, the replacements were supposed to be 10k's and did not fit. All the half shafts, 7, 10, and 12k's are the same length as far as I am aware. 7 and 10s are interchangeable with no mods and going with 12's requires changing the upper gear in the portal. I am no expert so I could be wrong but from everything I have read the compressed length for the rear half shafts is 26.5. The shafts I got with part number NCV82999 where 28 7/8.
 

StackJ

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
172
-2
16
Location
SoCal
The ones on the left are the correct Y to manifold gaskets (exhaust donuts). Fel Pro 60584. Previously mentioned donuts will not work - I bought them and tried. These are also cross-ref'd to a GM 454 engine if you want to know. How did we find them? The kid at Napa took the original to the stock room and physically matched. Thank goodness for guys like this.

61885444_10216651551975480_2169869258064920576_n.jpg
 

Carrera911

Active member
138
31
28
Location
Cumming, Georgia
Thermostat- Delco 180* 12T6D $5 amazon
Tstat gasket- Fel Pro 35271 $1.5 Oreillys
Heater core 90* bend- Gates 27466 $8 amazon
Upper radiator hose- Gates 22301 $8 amazon
Wipers- Anco 51-11 $8 amazon (Have not verified fitment but look identical to OE)
Wipers- 11" Autozone "duralast" generic wiper. (Need to drill mounting pin to fit wiper mounting screw)
Windshield washer pump- Anco 67-23 $10 amazon. Comes with new tank / pump grommet. Spade connector inline with pump -. Connector perpendicular to pump +.
 

majorhavoc67

Member
44
33
18
Location
Lincoln NE
***** PLEASE DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR TRUCK IN THIS THREAD.

***** PART NUMBERS ARE LISTED IN THE FREE PARTS MANUALS.

*****LOOKUP THE PART NUMBER, FIND THE CIVVY REPLACEMENT AND THEN POST YOUR FINDINGS


I thought that with more and more hmmwv's being distributed to the LEO/FD departments, a nice list of "things to check" should be compiled for the users to follow. These "things to check" by no means replaces the knowlegde gained from the technical manuals which are free to download here on SS (thanks SS for this).

Fan clutch system fails often and consists of several components: thermistor switch, tdm, solenoid, clutch and hoses. If it does not work, the fan clutch is locked on. This will consume what limited hp there is and it will drink a lot of diesel. Do not deep ford if system is not working correctly.

Flush coolant system, inside and out (between oil cooler and rad), they run hot and you will need all the cooling potential you can get. Water wetter helps. Replace all hoses, they can be the old orginal ones and they will burst.

Tear down all hubs and rebuild correctly per manual if you do not want the tire to pass you on the road and/or injuring someone.

Replace control box (under A-beam above left driver's knee) with either a yellow lable KDS box (with matching yellow label GPC) or a EESS control box. Most other boxes are junk and the one with a separate glow plug harness can burn the truck down at any time. Always disconnect batteries before changing/removing the control box or you can destroy the control box.

Keep batteries fully charged by adjusting generator to 28.8vdc. Low batteries cook control boxes. This generator is used on a lot of mv's so learning how to adjust it is important.

Replace glow plugs with the latest ones available. If you have swollen ones, obtain proper extraction tool to remove.

Clean ALL grounding connections and use star washers on grounds. Metal and aluminum are not friends. Install an engine ground harness. It connects the engine's left head (back end gound point) to the starter ground, the fire wall stud, the control box, and the generator ground.

Flush all oils from truck: geared hubs, engine, tranny, tcase and differentials. If tcase is overfilled and your tranny is low, you may have a bursted tcase cooling loop (google vampire disease hmmwv).

Geared hub drain plugs can be stuck at times. Weld a nut or allen wrench on them and then loosen.

Inspect all ball joints and do not over grease them. Boots will burst. If boot is torn, replace ball joint. Grease all propellors and steering link arm u-joints.

Steering linkage/componets are weak. If you grab the cross link and it wiggles up/down or back forth, then replace: pitman, idlers and all tie rod ends. Tie rod ends and pitman tend to rust in place. Put anti-sieze on all new threaded parts.

Inspect lower A-arms for cracks near cross member bolts. They can crack from abuse.

Check frame rails for rust through.

Install 3pt seat belts at all four seats.

Do not use the push button light switch in a hmmwv (another fire potential). Use the 3 lever unit only and carry a spare.

Do not lock brakes up while a tire is in the air or you can break a half shaft (less likely on the 12.1K units). Obtain correct spares. 3 different lengths per hmmwv.

Learn BTM technique for off roading...Brake/Throttle Modulation. It works.

Check all 7 bolts on each half shaft (6 at the brake rotor and 1 inside the hub). They can back out over time and destroy brakes. and/or half shaft. Use thread locking material and new METRIC lock washers or NORD LOCK washers at the brake end.

Drive tranny in H on pavement and HL or LL off road only when required. Failure to do so with damage your differentials and is hard on the tcase.

Replace headlights with LED ones. And/or look for hmmwv 24vdc light bar kits to use for off road and night vision operations. All tail lights and marker lights are prone to corrode so it is a good idea to clean the grounding connections at each light.

Wiper motors can quit working mostly from the connection between the windshield frame and the A-beam in the middle. Clean contactors by folding windshield down to expose contacts. Or remove the connectors and hard wire them. The older style motor is prone to failure so replace with new. While you are working on the wiper motor, replace the 4 plastic bushings inside the upper windshield frame (2 at wiper motor, one at each pivot).

Please read up on tire-rim combinations for safety reasons.

Keep truck 24vdc and use readily availble step down power supplies to power 12vdc equipment. Makes no sense to cut up a somewhat water resistant wire harness.

Oh and please be careful when deep fording a not necessarily ready for deep fording hmmwv. If you think it is just a higher snorkle and exhaust extension, you are in for several service surprises, including a possible replacement engine (or turn it in for another hmmwv!). Even at 30", several bad things can happen so please read up on this or it may fail you when you need it during a water crossing rescue.

Be safe!

Additional:

Parking brakes, 2 series.
1. Original on rear propellor infront of differential. Prone to sticking/rubbing and heating disk. Some fires caused by this. Lube slide assembly or upgrade to newer system. Replace cable if kinked.
2. Newer system replaces rear brake calipers with hmmwv/hummer specific manual actuation on side. This can be found as a complete kit on the internet. The main thing to remember with newer system is that the manual crank arm where the cable attaches to the caliper needs to be adjusted (via the parking brake lever) so that it rests at its stop (towards rear of vehicle). If not, your rear brakes will drag and warp rotors may result.

Front Brake Calipers:
Front brake caliper part numbers from OReilly Auto Parts. Both include pins. Both are remanufactured. Price at auto parts store is $21.99each plus core charge (A little cheaper at Autozone but higher core charge). Hummer H1 prices are over $250 each. These are identical parts from a 1982 AMC Eagle, same casting numbers, etc. :D
Right Front: AlCardone 18-4182
Left Front: AlCardone 18-4281

For the engine grounding harness as mentioned in thehummerguy's:


It is a 5 point harness:
point 1- left rear head ground terminal
point 2 label A - 25" TO DASH
point 3 label B - 33" TO GENERATOR GROUND
Point 4 label C - 35" TO CONTROL BOX MOUNTING BOLT
Point 5 label D - 73" TO STARTER GROUND


For those with 2.56 ratio differentials, these are the bearing numbers and seals for easy cross referencing if/when you maintain the hmmwv.


Carrier Outerbearing set LH & RH Gvt buys them in a set of cup & cone Timken LM603049 LM603012. Alternate GM 7451140.


Pinion bearing set large M802048 M802011, GM 7451155


Pinion bearing set small M88048 M88010, GM 7450984


Axle Stub Ball bearing Annular P207K, GM 9439608, 9439608, 9411324.


Output seal plain to flanges 6009472, 5579989, SKF 544401-22, CR0061


Thanks to Mark R for this.


This is from TheHummerguy. Follow it if you have electrical starting issues.

"Where are you buying your glow plugs? Who makes them?

i see post after post after post with this same issue, you guys really need to look up in the archives past issues because this one comes up every month....now, this starting system is not difficult, but you MUST and I repeat MUST start with known good parts. I for one use the Kascar non-swell glow plugs, while they are expensive, I have never had an issue after numerous trucks. The EESS box, I always use KDS yellow label with matching yellow banded Temp sender unit...this is not a glow plug controller as some folks call it, the TSU replaced the GPC as the GPC was a weak point and failed often.
the TSU just sends a signal based on engine temp that say either turn on the glow plugs for 6-8 seconds or don't, quite simple. NOW, if your EESS is a GREEN Label, NO TSU is Required, the glow plugs cycle every time at startup regardless of engine temp, I don't see many green label box but I have a few in my stock I use for trouble shooting.

today I am seeing alot of the new S3 EESS boxes on eBay, these are the latest generation of box, I now have all my trucks running this box and they work quite nicely, no more glow plug afterglow where the gen bounces up and down for 2 mins after cold start, you can tell this box by the extra maint port on the front for Diag.equipment to plug into. I have several of these new boxes, they are either Nartron or KDS, each come with there own TSU but I have found any of the KDS or Narton TSUs work, they are backward compatible, again, TSU, Not GPC glow plug controller.

there is the SSI box, I would never use one of these, never had any luck, also, make sure you don't have one of the early versions where the glow plug connector plugs direct into this box, so you would 3 plugs on this box, 2 for the body wiring harness and one for the separate glow plug harness...theses boxes are a no no, they had a habit of actully starting the truck on its own, several motor pools had hmmwv's burn to the ground.

So now you have a good box, good glow plugs, now go clean off every ground on the truck....dash, gen, all the lights, starter, engine, all the gauges etc...now make up a grounding harness, you can buy them from Kascar or make your own.
think of an octopus, where the head of the octopus is the start point, in this case the engine, on the left rear cylinder is the ground termination, starting from there, run a wire to each of theses locations:
1. Generator ground
2. One of the bolts that mounts the EESS box
3.to the stud on the firewall that feeds all the instrument gauges, you should have cleaned this ground so you know where it is. You have to take the inst cluster out to get to it.the stud passes through to the engine area near the fuel filter, one of the body harness grounds terminates there.
4. The starter ground

All 4 of these connections can be terminated into on large 2/0 solderless connector that has a 3/8 lug to bolt up to the engine head. Now everything you need to run is grounded.
I have had trucks that would do all of the issues you guys post about fixed with just this harness, I have eaten my fair share of boxes as well, bad boxes will eat glow plugs, but the Kascar plugs have a thermo limiter like the civ AC 60 G glop lug, you can't burn them up, Wellman is the Mfg I see that the goverment gets there hmmwv glows from, every DRMO engine I have ever received be it 6.2, 6.5 or Turbo diesel all have the Wellman 24v GP's installed.

hope this helps." Steve.

Oil Filter Numbers
Ac pf35


champion lab ph1218


fram hp4


fram ph13


fram ph5


mobil1m1302


motorcraftfl12


purol30040


purol34631


purol35132


wix51060


wix51061
Awesome post!
 
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