New Project - 1953 M38A1

Hey all, just bought a 1953 M38A1 that I'm going to pick up this weekend.

When I take a look at this thing, how can I tell if the "numbers match" between the frame, body, and engine?

Supposedly, a "good" 12 volt conversion was done that will be easy to switch back to 24V. What do I need to look for as I try to switch that back?

What's the best way to evaluate the various components of the drivetrain to tell if they need to be re-built, just serviced, or left alone?
- Engine
- Transmission
- Transfer Case
- Diffs

How hard is it to install the windshields on this thing? I read the manual and it mentions an "improvised" tool.

Many, many, many more questions to come.

Pics of the 53 M38A1

Here are a couple of pics ...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/davistroy/album?.dir=/c25bre2&.src=ph&.tok=pheUALGBRb9_.zrE

RE: Pics of the 53 M38A1

Troy, were you here:

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9585

If so, we missed meeting you.

If not, you should come next time we all get together

Troy, were you here:

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9585

If so, we missed meeting you.

If not, you should come next time we all get together

Click to expand...

Yep - I was there - introduced myself as "Abby Normal" during the intros ...

I expect to be there on a regular basis and getting to know more people. What a great group (and some beautiful vehicles ...)!

Ah ok, I remember you.

Welcome to Steel Soldiers!

i just spoke to a guy who might sell me his 47 CJ-2A. he performed the 12v conversion, all said and done was 1500 bucks. hopefully he was full of it and it only cost half as much. maybe even less to bring it back to 24 v. as far as the serial numbers go, the rules for the CJ-3B should apply to the M38A1 . Not 100% but the M38 was derrived from that model.
check this link:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/SerialNos.html

IIRC, the CJ3B is a different class of Jeep from the M38 or M38A1. There was also the M606 which was a military version of the 3B. M38s closely resembled their civilian counterpart the CJ3A and the M38A1 was the predecessor to the CJ-5. Again, coming from a very foggy area of brain that has been largely dormant for some time.

Nice project - keep us updated with plenty of pics as the rig progresses!

troy.m38a1 said:

Supposedly, a "good" 12 volt conversion was done that will be easy to switch back to 24V. What do I need to look for as I try to switch that back?

Click to expand...

It took me about $2,000 and several months to get my M38A1 from 12V to 24V

RE: Re: New Project - 1953 M38A1

That is a nice looking and very complete M38A1. I just sold my Marine one.....miss it already.
I have some unopen carburator rebuild kits for the M38A1 at $20.00 plus shipping.
I also have a military jerry can holder if you need one for $15.00
One of the few, Frank

troy.m38a1 said:

Hey all, just bought a 1953 M38A1 that I'm going to pick up this weekend.

When I take a look at this thing, how can I tell if the "numbers match" between the frame, body, and engine?


How hard is it to install the windshields on this thing? I read the manual and it mentions an "improvised" tool.

Many, many, many more questions to come.

Click to expand...

There were no 'matching numbers' on these units, ie: tub numbers didn't match block numbers. There are two primary sets of numbers on them. The first is the "Patent Plate" located behind the passenger seat on the leading edge of the tire well. It's about 2"x3" or so and will have the MDXXXXXX stamped in it. That's the serial number for the vehicle. This plate is more often than not intact, but covered with a zillion layers of paint. Just look for the four screws. If they're there, the plate is most probably there.

The second set of numbers is located on the data plate on the passenger side just below the grab handle. It will have the SAME MDXXXXX stamped in it as the Patent Plate mentioned above. It will also have the delivery month and year stamped along with the inspectors initials. This dataplate is more often missing then present.

The final number is on the block. It's on a flat boss just below the water thermostat housing. It would NOT match the serial number from the patent plate or dash data plate.

There's also a 283L on the left frame rail behind the bumper gusset. It's on all of them.