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Wrecker Crane Remote Control

nf6x

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I've often thought that it would be nice to add a remote control capability to the crane controls on my M543A2 wrecker, or on the M936A1 that will replace it soon. I usually use it by myself, so it can be challenging to not be down there on the ground to maneuver the load. I've had to resort to a lot of climbing up and down, and sometimes even rotating the load by tying a rope to it and pulling the rope from up in the gondola.

Have any of you ever retrofitted either wired or radio remote control to a 5-ton wrecker or any other hydraulic machine with similar controls? I'd be curious about hearing how others have done that and how much it cost, either using a commercially-made kit or a home-brewed system.

I've seen equipment with such controls built in, and I've seen some stuff online from makers of remote control systems. The online stuff didn't mention cost, and it all looked like it's probably very expensive. I'm sure that I could create the electronic portion of a remote control system, but I don't know yet how to find suitable actuators to proportionally actuate the existing valves on the crane, and completely release the valves when unpowered for both manual control and a fail-safe/emergency-stop capability.
 

M1031CMT

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Never done it myself. And I am pretty sure that the add on systems are very expensive for the average joe.

I have to admit that I am in the same boat. Love to use the M816, but it is pain in the ass, as well as the joints, getting on/off the truck. Especially when you just need to move it 1/2 inch up/down/left/right.

I would think it wouldn't be too hard to rig something up. You could use some electric actuators that are bolted to the top of the control panel and have pins on the other end to lock onto the controls when you want to use it. Wire that up to a little wireless control panel and you are all set. Only big problem would be safety. If something goes wrong, you need a way to kill all power. But even that wouldn't be too hard to rig up.
 

73m819

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Remote wireless controls are used everyday, it would require electromechanical valves wired to the multi Chanel receiver, very doable just only $$$$
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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Never done it myself. And I am pretty sure that the add on systems are very expensive for the average joe.

I have to admit that I am in the same boat. Love to use the M816, but it is pain in the ass, as well as the joints, getting on/off the truck. Especially when you just need to move it 1/2 inch up/down/left/right.

I would think it wouldn't be too hard to rig something up. You could use some electric actuators that are bolted to the top of the control panel and have pins on the other end to lock onto the controls when you want to use it. Wire that up to a little wireless control panel and you are all set. Only big problem would be safety. If something goes wrong, you need a way to kill all power. But even that wouldn't be too hard to rig up.

It sounds like we're thinking on the same page. My mental picture has a bank of four actuators mounted on top of the panel over the valve body, with linkages going back to the vertical levers that actuate the poppet valves. I'd want to use some sort of actuators that move freely when unpowered. That would let me continue to use the manual controls without having to disconnect the linkages, and I could include one or more emergency stop buttons on the truck body that simply disconnect power to the remote control circuitry.

These are the characteristics that I think that the actuators need:

  1. Both push and pull with a travel of around three inches (just a guess; I haven't climbed up there to measure the valve lever displacement at the point where the linkages would most likely connect yet).
  2. For safety reasons, they should release the levers and move freely when unpowered. This rules out things like acme screw linear actuators.
  3. They need to be able to proportionally actuate the valves.
  4. Closed loop position control (like in an RC aircraft servo) is not necessary, since they're pushing against a spring and the operator naturally closes the control loop by feathering the control to get the desired reaction from the crane.

Off the shelf pneumatic rams would be ideal mechanically, but then I'd need to figure out how to apply air pressure that's proportional to the remote control displacement. The fail-safe part would be easy at least, because I could include solenoid valves which vent the air lines when unpowered.

An electrical actuator like a solenoid would be easy to control electronically by giving it a regulated current that's proportional to the remote control displacement (force is proportional to current in a solenoid), but the off-the-shelf solenoids I've found so far either push or pull (force is only applied in one direction), and they have short travel.

Aircraft R/C servos don't seem sturdy enough for this application to me.

I've seen one commercial system online that appears to actuate the equipment's hydraulic valves with its own small hydraulic rams, powered by its own little hydraulic pump. That seems over-complicated to me.

Ideally, I'd like to find something that acts like a pneumatic/hydraulic ram mechanically, but like a solenoid or motor electrically. I haven't found that yet, but I'm still looking.


Remote wireless controls are used everyday, it would require electromechanical valves wired to the multi Chanel receiver, very doable just only $$$$
I've seen it done two different ways:

  1. Hydraulic control valves are electrically actuated, and are then controlled at one or more locations by wired and/or radio controls.
  2. Hydraulic control valves are ordinary poppet valves with manual lever controls, and separate actuators push/pull on the levers for remote control. For example, on the Grove cranes that I've seen on some of the rear body units of PLS trucks, you can clearly see conventional lever-operated hydraulic valves with exposed linkages leading up to a separate bank of actuators.

I'd probably use the first approach if I was designing a new piece of equipment from scratch, since that turns the controls into electrical stuff as close to the hydraulics as possible, and then it's in territory where I'm comfortable.

I think the second approach makes more sense for this sort of retrofit, where I'd prefer to leave the original hydraulics untouched.

In either case, I think I can roll the electronic and/or radio portion myself for less than a ready made commercial system. I'm an electrical engineer in my day job, so that's the game that I know how to play. I haven't found the right actuators yet, though, and I have less experience in that area so far. So, I don't know off the top of my head what stuff is available off the shelf just yet.

If this brainstorming does end up with me adding remote control to my wrecker, maybe others will want to build the same thing? I think that the same hardware would probably work on at least three generations of 5-ton 6x6 wreckers.
 

73m819

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You can get a ALL-in-ONE electromechanical valves that would REPLACE the existing valves, these either operate with hands on or electrically by a solenoid activated either from a tether or a receiver
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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You can get a ALL-in-ONE electromechanical valves that would REPLACE the existing valves, these either operate with hands on or electrically by a solenoid activated either from a tether or a receiver
Understood, but I'd prefer to leave the original hydraulic system alone. I'll look into the electromechanical valves some more to see if that changes my mind, though.
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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Oh, by the way: I got the impression that most (all?) of the electrically-operated hydraulic directional control valves that I've seen so far just turn on or off with a solenoid valve, as opposed to the proportional control that's possible when manually operating valves like the ones on my wrecker. That proportional control is the thing that I like best about my hydraulic crane: it's easy to operate it very smoothly and precisely.

I assume that proportionally controllable electromechanical valves also exist, but I don't know where to find them yet.
 

73m819

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They do, the control box has levers that connect to a type of control ( electric proportioning switch, can not pronounce the name for these let a-lone spell) that the more the lever is pushed the more action the electromechanical valve does. In another words, you feather on the control box, the corresponding crane control feathers
 

doghead

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In the "old days" they used something called "reins".(to operate things remotely)

Not sure you could do it safely with the cranes.
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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Location
Riverside, CA, USA
They do, the control box has levers that connect to a type of control ( electric proportioning switch, can not pronounce the name for these let a-lone spell) that the more the lever is pushed the more action the electromechanical valve does. In another words, you feather on the control box, the corresponding crane control feathers
Is the word you were looking for "potentiometer"? Because I know all about those!

I'm still hesitant to take apart the original hydraulics, but I'll keep that in mind as one of my options. It may end up being the easiest one.


In the "old days" they used something called "reins".(to operate things remotely)

Not sure you could do it safely with the cranes.
Well, I kind of already do that. I sit up in the gondola to operate the hydraulic controls, and then use reins to position the load! For example, once or twice when mounting/dismounting the commo shelter on my HMMWV, I've attached a rope to one corner so I could swing it to the right angle while sitting up in the crane gondola.

I hadn't thought of attaching reins to the control levers, though. I'll try to remember that if I ever decide to compete in the annual Darwin Awards. :p
 

73m819

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I use a rope on my crowd when I am stretching out the 3rd section, trying to set the push bar
 

trukhead

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I don't know how much force is required to move the wrecker controls but Radio Control cars use ground based systems that are legal for ground use. The systems for RC planes are not legal for ground use. The proportional control is built into the systems. There are quarter scale servos that make big torque that could move the levers but the linear movement may not be enough. Huge actuators may be available. Wikipedia had an interesting definition for servomechanism.

This is an interesting site:

Servo Systems Overview
 

patracy

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I don't know how much force is required to move the wrecker controls but Radio Control cars use ground based systems that are legal for ground use. The systems for RC planes are not legal for ground use. The proportional control is built into the systems. There are quarter scale servos that make big torque that could move the levers but the linear movement may not be enough. Huge actuators may be available. Wikipedia had an interesting definition for servomechanism.

This is an interesting site:

Servo Systems Overview
There's actually 1/3 scale servos I was going to recommend. Use that with a extended lever and a chain linkage with two servos per lever (Using them to only pull each way). You could easily setup a remote setup that way. And still retain use at the control box by hand.
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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48
Location
Riverside, CA, USA
I don't know how much force is required to move the wrecker controls but Radio Control cars use ground based systems that are legal for ground use. The systems for RC planes are not legal for ground use. The proportional control is built into the systems. There are quarter scale servos that make big torque that could move the levers but the linear movement may not be enough. Huge actuators may be available. Wikipedia had an interesting definition for servomechanism.

This is an interesting site:

Servo Systems Overview

Thanks, I'll look into that!

I haven't measured the force needed at the likely connection point on the valve levers yet, but my seat of the pants guess is "about 5 pounds". A rotary actuator with a lever arm on the shaft might be able to do the trick. Even a plain DC motor (possibly with gear reduction) might work. I'm theorizing that I could deliberately operate the motor such that it's stalled by the valve lever, and I'd then vary the current through it to control how hard it pushes on the valve, and thus the valve position at which it stalls out.
 

nf6x

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If y'all have hands on experience with those large servos, can you tell me how environmentally robust they are? I'm talking about tolerance to moisture, dust, oil, vibration and sunlight, not about tree-huggy stuff. :)
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Thanks, I'll look into that!

I haven't measured the force needed at the likely connection point on the valve levers yet, but my seat of the pants guess is "about 5 pounds". A rotary actuator with a lever arm on the shaft might be able to do the trick. Even a plain DC motor (possibly with gear reduction) might work. I'm theorizing that I could deliberately operate the motor such that it's stalled by the valve lever, and I'd then vary the current through it to control how hard it pushes on the valve, and thus the valve position at which it stalls out.
Basicly a potentiometer setup
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
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Location
Riverside, CA, USA
Hmm, this looks interesting:

linear voice coil motor by MotiCont

I don't know about the cost or how well they're environmentally sealed, but they appear to be available at around the force and stroke length that I think is needed, they're mechanically a lot like double acting pneumatic cylinders, and they would be easy to drive electrically.

Edited to add: Price is not shown for the size I think would be needed, but a smaller one is $700 in single quantity. :shock:
 
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73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
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Hmm, this looks interesting:

linear voice coil motor by MotiCont

I don't know about the cost or how well they're environmentally sealed, but they appear to be available at around the force and stroke length that I think is needed, they're mechanically a lot like double acting pneumatic cylinders, and they would be easy to drive electrically.

Edited to add: Price is not shown for the size I think would be needed, but a smaller one is $700 in single quantity. :shock:
SO between 4000 and 6000 will give you remote, I see a very cost effective mod for once or twice a month use
 
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