Wont start when warm?

Went to the local truck pulls tonight. Came back home, engine was completely cold, fired right up... Any help on this..?

When it is hot and won't start, try pouring some cold water over the fuel shut off solenoid on the IP. I've read on this site where that solenoid can fail when hot. So, no fuel, no start.

mine does same so i just make GP switch then it start right up any time
before i got switch. i gotta wait until engine get cold.

I have a M1008 doing a similar thing.
The engine starts fine when cold and when it is hot. When the engine is warm it has trouble starting. Just cranks and cranks then it will start after a considerable amount of cranking time.

I did find that it would start (when the engine was warm) if I manually turned on the GP's for a few seconds. Changed GP cards and still have the exact same warm start issue.

I believe that the temperature sensor for the GP module may be bad but I haven't had time to change it out with a new one yet.
Karl

10-15 minutes of idle isn't really enough to get a 6.2 to full temperature. However, it is enough to get it above 125 degrees. Which is what the glow plug sensor considers fully warmed up. So, if you are in the area of 125-180 degrees. Your engine won't really want to start. Just a hair of throttle while cranking should get it to fire up if it doesn't on its own.

If it won't start when hot, then you need to start looking at the IP solenoid. Turn the key on and pull the pink wire off the IP. You should hear it click both when you pull the wire and when you plug it back in. If not, then your solenoid is probably going and needs to be replaced.

Thanks guys for all your input.

A few things I'd like to note: Giving it throttle while cranking does nothing. IP is new, not even 1 working hour on it.

Is the IP solenoid on/in the pump its self or separate? (I had someone install the pump for me, so I'm still learning this stuff)

What kind of fuel filter setup do you have? I have a hunch that the filter base is leaking air and losing its prime, as many here have indicated is common. My M1009 has been doing this regularly and the only way I've found around it is to pour a small amount of diesel fuel into the top of the intake manifold. After that it starts in about two cranks. I'm planning on swapping out the original for a spin on unit to see if it rectifies the problem.

I have the stock fuel filter setup. I don't think it's losing it's prime because it started right up after sitting for 2 weeks.

Good point. As I said, mine does the same thing so I'll definitely be following this thread closely. I was going to have the IP changed out in hopes that it would fix it but since it seems it didn't help your situation, I'm going to skip it for now. I'm doing the filter mod because I'm running out of ideas, and its cheap. Did you have this problem prior to changing the pump? I'd be very interested to know if yours starts when you add diesel into the manifold.

Before I had the new pump put on it was hard starting and would stall out alot. I have not even had a chance to drive it since the new IP was put in, only idle and rev. Tomorrow Im putting in a new steering column since the original was trashed. After that, Ill try the diesel into the manifold thing.

You might consider adding a manual override button, for the GP system. It's very easy and won't affect the automatic GP function.

Just use a pushbutton and ground the light blue wire(at the GP relay or at the controller card plug.

Then, when your in this mystery temperature zone, you can turn on the GPs for a few seconds(10-12 max).

I have been having a similar case with my M1009. Cold start - fine, immediate restart after running - fine, run for 15-20 minutes and let sit for 15-20 minutes - no start no matter how much you crank. I just tried taking the plug off the temperature sensor on the drivers side rear of the engine manifold - which bypasses the sensor. I counted to about 10 seconds and the truck started fine.

While this will keep me from having to sit until the engine is cool to start, obviously there is another problem. I will start with the temperature sensor but am having problems finding the correct replacement. Mine has a single coaxial cable looking plug. The others I have seen and referenced (like the BWD WT3000) have two poles on the end.

Does anyone know the part number and make (besides the tech manual) of an aftermarket replacement for the coaxial style?

Giving throttle will do nothing it starts at full fuel until the motor starts then the govenor in the pump takes over and takes over fuel delivery. 9 times outta 10 with a no start when warm issue with a stanadyne pump the. Hydralic head is worn. You said the pump is new. Cranking speed is ok then onto the glow plugs.

Hollowman said:

What kind of fuel filter setup do you have? I have a hunch that the filter base is leaking air and losing its prime, as many here have indicated is common. My M1009 has been doing this regularly and the only way I've found around it is to pour a small amount of diesel fuel into the top of the intake manifold. After that it starts in about two cranks. I'm planning on swapping out the original for a spin on unit to see if it rectifies the problem.

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Pouring liquids of any kind into the intake of a diesel engine is not a good idea, you may hydrolock the engine. You can get away with that with a gas engine becuase the gasser has a much lower compression ratio. All you can really do is flood it. Hydrolocking a diesel engine can cause big time damage, bent connecting rods, cracked pistons, blown head gaskets. Your probably right about the filter base. A spin on base and filter will run you a little more or less than 50 bucks depending on where you shop. That upgrade will more than likely solve the problem.

cpf240 said:

When it is hot and won't start, try pouring some cold water over the fuel shut off solenoid on the IP. I've read on this site where that solenoid can fail when hot. So, no fuel, no start.

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This.

Before anything more, next time it does this pop the hood and slowly pour water over the IP, both the top and make sure it runs down over the area where the lines run in. Do this slowly to avoid shocking the case and cracking it. Do this until the IP is cool to the touch.

If it starts right up after that, and I bet it will, the hydraulic head/rotor on your IP is either worn or if you said it is new they screwed up the rebuild.

Do this before you go messing with glow plugs- I will bet this will show you it is an IP issue.

Wayne,
Thanks for the advice. I hadn't considered the hydrolock situation with sense as its a very small amount that I add to the intake. I did figure that the starting fluid warning had a lot to do with the compression and possible detonation and things giving way as a result of the very high volatility of the ether.

Chief 919: I've tried the cool water test and at least in my case it doesn't solve the problem. I think the next step for me is to follow GregVA's lead and try to troubleshoot my temp sensor.

I can't get over how helpful this site is, you guys rock!

Well guys, my problem was horribly dirty fuel and fuel tank.. I mean I added fresh fuel and a new fuel filter before I even tried to start this truck, but oh well. Dropped the tank, cleaned it, flushed fuel lines, new fuel filter. Starts right up hot or cold, day or night

Thats a GL truck for ya..

ilovemyblazer said:

Well guys, my problem was horribly dirty fuel and fuel tank.. I mean I added fresh fuel and a new fuel filter before I even tried to start this truck, but oh well. Dropped the tank, cleaned it, flushed fuel lines, new fuel filter. Starts right up hot or cold, day or night

Thats a GL truck for ya..

Click to expand...

That's great!!