4bt in 1009

Axles???

I think the 10-bolts are going to get very angry with the torque and weight increase.

Skinny said:

Axles???

I think the 10-bolts are going to get very angry with the torque and weight increase.

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they are 12 bolt and the corporate dana 44 clone out of 3/4 ton k25 the 4bt is 100 lighter then 6.2. sorry if I misled anyone I wll post up some pics when I go home April 2nd
My next move is figure out motor mounts and placement and the availibility of ODave and his phone plan

???

12 bolt won't like it either and I've never heard of a corporate dana 44. I wonder if you get one of those when you put a 10 bolt and a dana 44 in a room together overnight with a bottle of wine...

Either way, I hope ODave gets his phone plan figured out too...I like Verizon wireless.

Skinny said:

???

12 bolt won't like it either and I've never heard of a corporate dana 44. I wonder if you get one of those when you put a 10 bolt and a dana 44 in a room together overnight with a bottle of wine...

Either way, I hope ODave gets his phone plan figured out too...I like Verizon wireless.

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All I know that the "GM" dana44 ended in in 70s and they produced a more less clone. I am curious why don't think these would hold up ? the 4bt is in the share a similar power band as 6.2 IDI if not a little less.

The Dana 44 (manufactured by Dana) stopped being used somewhere in the late 70's as a front axle. 1980 was really the start of 10 bolt (manufactured by GM) front and rear axles in the K5 and K10. In a comparison with the front axles, you really can't compare them because they are practically the same. Most of the knuckle out parts are either the same or of equal strength. The gears/carrier/shafts/etc. have small differences between them but in the end I don't care who argues shaft thickness or spline count...it all feeds out to a tiny 297x sized u-joint period. If you don't break that part, you will snap the necked down part of the inner shafts regardless of it being a 10 bolt or D44. As far as a 12 bolt to 10 bolt comparison on the rearend, they are pretty much the same as well except for ring gear size. Being that the 12 bolt was never anything spectacular in a truck and the last one made is over 30 years old, a SF 14 bolt would be a wiser choice.

All of these domestic half ton axles if you plan on using them for doing anything other than driving on pavement or very light fourwheeling suck. The c clip rearend is inherently a bad design, has many weak points, and tough to deal with when it fails. Most also use a light duty 2 pinion diff which are weak and notorious for splitting apart when abused. Sure, you can throw lots of money at a better carrier, chromoly shafts, fancy ujoints, etc. but you will be time and money ahead upgrading to something better. I really only would consider a Ford 9" or a Chrysler 8.75" rearend because they have pressed bearings, removable centersections, and are very strong from the factory.

Unless you are going to keep this a street queen, I'd upgrade the rest of the driveline as well or atleast plan on spending money when something goes pop.

I think I am good with what intend, thanks for explaining though. However I am within the power weight constriants that I am in now. 6.2 turbo with 6.5 pump & heads ect, figure in about or around 180 hp. the 4bt is about 150 hp with 100 lb less. I am doing this for daily driver and reliablty. the 12 bolt combo is just what I have on hand, with a good ratio for driveability.

Update? I would like to see your progress. I may attempt a 1990 1/2 ton Dodge 4x4 swap. just need to locate a powerplant and acc.

Update... engine in along with gm nv4500 ended up having to mod the flywheel, the flywheel I received from a parts distributor was for nv3500 or AX15, driven it about 300yds. Lkie all CUCV still working out the electrical.. I find myself with way too many wires and not charging. as for what is left to: I need to fab up a bump stop for the passenger side of some sort, exhaust system, trying to use a down pipe off a duramax. and make gauge cluster of some sort. the last thing is creature comforts and a paint job.. oh have work out some sort of electric fan set up for radiator engine fan is too far away to be effective..

Dave, I have 2 different sizes of electric fans. Let me know if you need to look them over.

1StumpJumper said:

I have a 4BTA that I am putting in a Willys Wagon. If I had a dozen more it would not be enough. I say go for it! An overdrive trans is almost a must. The ideal gearing is quite different than a 6.2l. A M1009 would be a great candidate in my mind.

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Please keep us up to date on that...It has been on my wish list for a long time.

I have a friend who is selling a 4bt with a BW 4 speed trans. if anybody is interested. Includes a hydroboost system with master cyl. No intercooler. He was going to put it in a Jeep. In the Orlando area. I think he's asking $2K. Mods let me know if this post is in an unacceptable forum. Just a bit of info, not selling it for him.

juy to the world

Today I took great pleasure in cutting all the over complicated wiring in the 1009.. thank it imho is a pos...stupid stupid system.. I have reduced it to three wires in the starting system..
1 wire come off the dog head thingy to the S term.
2 I left the ford solenoid came off the term with power on with switch turn to acc.. also it one I power the electric pump with..
btw it 12 volts I don't that it be that hard if you wanted 24 volt cant Imagine why though

Having to redo the brake clutch pedal, finally found the elusive GM 465 hydro clutch brake pedal assembly. What a PIA, steering column, hydro booster, fuse box all have to come out and be re worked.

How perfect is this...

bite me

All back together. Mated up the sm465 master cylinder to the nv4500 slave.. still have bleed yet. All that left is the radiator intercooler and exhaust.. then i am driving the pos.

Hmmmm....no pics? I think rules of the internet dictate this didn't actually happen if there aren't any pic

V8Astro said:

Hmmmm....no pics? I think rules of the internet dictate this didn't actually happen if there aren't any pic

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due to commercial and the cost of band with these days, the site chose I a protocol that is unfamiliar with, therefore, I chose to invoke my fathers excuse" I am too old and buzzy to do it wait til the kid show up do it for me". meanwhile, I will assault your mind with misspellings and run on sentences lol.. I really apologize and do appreciate your all patience with my mindless rants of stupidiy and general crap
dave

new issue... the flywheel/ pressure plate on the chevy adaptor set up is forward more than the 6.5 set up.. I am still researching. here what I have going on, the slave cyl. is bottoming out on the rear of the bellhouing. I need to either, wine out the fulcrum ball or get a thicker throw out bearing.. Couple options, bad news I have remove the tranny, there is not flywheel inspection cover like on the SBC..

4 bt Flywheel

I have the 4Bt installed in my Power Wagon now !! Not sure if you tried , but I am thinking GM uses 2 different length Throw Out Bearings , maybe need to use the longer one of the 2 . Also did you use the 4BT GM flywheel ? They are super thick I am thinking also 2x as thick as Cummins Dodge flywheel . Sux to have to pull trans out . That is a heavy hunk of iron to deal with . Be safe , Dave

southdave said:

new issue... the flywheel/ pressure plate on the chevy adaptor set up is forward more than the 6.5 set up.. I am still researching. here what I have going on, the slave cyl. is bottoming out on the rear of the bellhouing. I need to either, wine out the fulcrum ball or get a thicker throw out bearing.. Couple options, bad news I have remove the tranny, there is not flywheel inspection cover like on the SBC..

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