• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

MEP-003a back to life, I hope (fuel system clean up, re-connection switch fix)

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
First of all, I thank you all on this forum for all the information I have learned about the MEP units. This is my first post but I have devoured tons of information and you have answered almost all of my questions. I bought the MEP at a farm auction which had been sitting in a barn for a number of years. The gentleman who owned wired it to his house but smoked his TV so it was pushed into the corner until he died. Of course I learned this after I was the proud new owner. I probably made some mistakes but I will tell you my story and wrap up with a couple of questions. Knowing me, this will be long…

After sealing the last bid and doing a closer inspection of my pride and joy I realized the re-connection switch was locked into the 3phase position. Maybe this explained the smoking TV… More about that later. The fuel tank had about 8-9 gallons and was really bad goo. I drained it and removed the tank. I pulled the fuel gauge assembly but the refill switch assembly wouldn’t budge so I left well enough alone. To clean the tank I used lye (sodium hydroxide) it does a good job of cutting organic growth. I suspect it would’t be good for the cork float which is why I pulled it. I have some red devil lye in a jar but had a half can of oven cleaner which is the same stuff so I squirted the full can into the tank. If you try this be aware not to breath any or get it into your eyes. It will also remove paint so I was careful not to get any on the outside of the tank. After sloshing it around a while I used my pressure washer in the open holes and it really came out nice and clean. It’s probably not so nice on the other side of the baffle but I will keep an eye on the fuel condition. I flushed the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filters, engine oil and filter.

Next, I worked on the re-connection switch. Most of what I read about was to flood it with WD-40, switch to the position for your application and leave it. I wanted it to work as intended. I can see using the 3-phase and 240v positions. I removed the front cover and top cover from the AC box. I did not disconnect any wires but did unbolt the terminal board to move it up and out of the way which gave better access to the switch. Removed the knob and the small leverage shaft which threads into the side main switch shaft. Removed the mounting bolts from the front and rear of the switch. (I did this when the tank was removed so access to the rear bolts was not a problem.) With all the wires attached, the switch is really a bear to move but I was able to push the rear of the switch down and toward the back of the box. This allowed the switch shaft to move free from the hole. I removed the front cover and studied how the switch works. Now I understand why the switch was stuck. I was worried the terminals welded themselves together but not the case. To lubricate the switch I made sure it was engaged in the 3phase position this helped hold the terminal lugs into position. I removed the next set of nuts from the long bolts holding the switch together. Using a can of silicon dielectric spray with applicator straw and my knife blade I carefully separated the switch segments just wide enough for the straw and flushed silicon into each section. Careful not to disturb too much and lubricating each section. When bolting things back together I was careful to make sure the segments sandwiched back together correctly. A couple of lugs did move a little and had to be adjusted so the plastic discs would come back together. I cleaned and lubricated the switch actuating springs with WD40 and spray lithium grease. After putting it all back together the switch works perfectly. With much less resistance.

After re-installing the tank I was able to get the engine running, it smoked and belched itself to life! It built up good oil pressure and sounded good. Brought it up to 60hz immediately but the output voltage on the 120v circuit was around 170v which equals a smoking TV! I did some reading and troubleshooting. I pulled the VR board and tested the output transistor as well as Q1 and Q2, all the diodes, resistors, etc. Nothing seems to be a problem except R15 was set at the far end of the setting; center terminal to one side was 2k ohms, center to the other side was 0 ohms. I haven’t been able to work in the unit since finding this, could this cause the VR from not regulating to 120v? The voltage adjust rheostat does nothing.

I assume I need set up the calibration circuit from the TM for the board. I wasn’t able to find any comments on here on the procedure, anything to look out for?

I have other questions but this is longer than I like so my other questions will wait.

Thank you all!

Jason
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
Welcome to the forum Jason. A great first post! Congrats on your success. I wish I knew enough about the electrical side of the 003a to help you but am sure there are experts who will chime in.
Jerry
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
How did you test the transistors? Typically the Q3 transistor is the culprit for s condition such as yours. For the $5 or less it costs to buy one, I would replace it and see what you get. IIRC, the R15 pot on the board is for setting the voltage stabilization of the regulator.
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
How did you test the transistors? Typically the Q3 transistor is the culprit for s condition such as yours. For the $5 or less it costs to buy one, I would replace it and see what you get. IIRC, the R15 pot on the board is for setting the voltage stabilization of the regulator.
Thanks for your comments,

I removed the Q3 from the circuit and tested with a Fluke in the diode test connection. Emitter to base, base to collector junctions tested good (flow in one direction not the other) and I didn't find any conductivity from emitter to collector. I know this only tested if if it's not open or shorted not if it's operating within specs. Do you still recommend replacing the transistor?
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,373
277
83
Location
North Carolina
Your test is valid, but it might not find problems that show up at high temperature or higher voltages like it sees in use. You could say that your test showed that the transistor is probably good.
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
You say you had flow in one direction, but not the other between the base, collector and emitter points. You should have a specific voltage drop between the points when testing this way, did you happen to see what it was. It should be between .45 and .9 volts.

Either way, as mentioned that is just a quick check, since you have already had it off of the board, just get a new one and replace it. It'll be easy now that you have the hard work done.
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
No... I don't remember the actual voltage drop but I will order the transistor and replace it. After working on the board do you normally follow the recalibration process?
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
I was unsure on testing m VR boards so I sent 2 down to Tom at gulf coast trucks. He went though one and replace the componets known to go bad for $80. The other one was missing the jumpers. He installed them, VR board works good. He didnt charge me for that one .It was a newer board, whoever changed it foregot to install the jumpers. Nice person to deal with as long as you arent in a hurry to get back. 3 weaks to a month turn around. http://www.gctrucks.com/contact.html
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
Hope everyone is having a good Christmas season. I've had a little setback on my MEP-003A project. I had the engine running and found the VR issue but never ran it very long. I was waiting on glow plugs which I finally got and installed today. (let me know if anyone needs any, I had to buy a box of 10) I had 2 defective glowplugs in cylinders #1 and #2. Which is my first question, which I could not find in the TM's anywhere... Are the cylinders numbered 1-4 from the gen head to the blower or blower to gen head? I assumed Gen to blower = 1-4.

After installing the glow plugs it still was hard starting and smoked quite a bit until it warmed up for about a minute. Using an infrared temp probe I found #2 cylinder (second from the gen head) was running at least 150 degrees hotter than the other cylinders. That same cylinder bank also has a strange exhaust note. I don't have a diesel compression kit but I plan find one. I pulled the valve covers and they are all close to .010" intake/.007" exhaust. I know a lean running gas engine will run hot. Can a dirty or bad injector nozzle cause a cylinder to run hotter?

I want to know I have a good engine before diving into the VR issue.
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
Grega,

You could be right on the money! You comment also hit me square between the eyes. It has been sitting a long time and of course I cleaned a fair number of mud dauber nets out of lots of places but I didn't check the exhaust system. Could simply be an exhaust restriction.

Reminds me of a Bolens 1250 I was working on. After getting it running there was a burnt popcorn smell. I had a big bag of popcorn which I saved from the trash to feed the deer. A mouse in my shop packed popcorn in the muffler. Took a few minutes to pop it all out!

Thank you for your comment on Tom who will calibrate the VR board too, Thanks and Merry Christmas!
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
I pulled the cooling shields off today and removed the muffler. To my disappointment, no restrictions. I found the exhaust ports of the two cylinders one wet with fuel and the other dry carbon soot. I started making a compression test adaptor from one of the old glow plugs. Compression test should tell me what my next steps should be.

Merry Christmas everyone!
 

steelypip

Active member
769
68
28
Location
Charlottesville, VA
There's been a fair bit of discussion about the importance of valve clearance adjustment on these engines. I'd definitely set that before I got too worried about anything else.
 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
Jerry / All,

I've been working on it for the last couple of days and here is what I found. I did find in the TM, #1 cylinder is adjacent to the blower end.

I built a glow plug compression test jig; the cylinders were low 290-320 on the dry test. TM says 375psi is minimum but on a warm engine. I did the test cold, about 40 deg F. Some error maybe in my gauge but the good news is they were all within 20-30 psi of each other and none had any significant increase during the wet test.

With the test jig I was able to pressurize the cylinder with compressed air. With air flowing into the cylinder, I rotated the crank to close both valves on the cylinder being tested. #4, I previously called #1 and the one I know wasn’t igniting was leaking from the exhaust valve. The valve was opening and closing but must have been sticking slightly. I used some penetrating oil on the valve stem and exercised the valve which made a big difference.


I put things back together to just let it run as Grega suggested. Ran it for about 30 minutes at 60 Hz, it held the frequency on the money but with a constant miss. I pulled the top cooling shield and checked the exhaust temps. Looks like I have a MEP-001.5 It’s running on just 2 cylinders but #1 was still 100 degrees below #3. #2 and #4 were only around 100 degrees at the exhaust manifold. So I pulled the injectors and took them to Taylor Diesel. They tested them and found 1 totally stuck, 1 firing at a very low pressure, another misfiring, and 1 which wasn’t bad but had a poor pattern. They are rebuilding them, the nozzles are $65 each. Does that sound like a good price?

Anxious to see how it runs after I get them back. I think it will be a good unit because it held good oil pressure, 40psi cold and was a little over 30 when I shut it down. I could not detect any blow by from the filler tube. Next, I will work on the VR board and replace the transistor. I sure hope that solves voltage problem. Also looks like I have freq meter issue. Will worry about that last…

Once I have things in order I would like to find a few parts to finish it off. Let me know if anyone has any leads on the following:

start switch knob
aux fuel pump switch connector (connector on fuel tank)
Oil pressure gauge (mine is a little sticky)

Thank you all for your help!

Oh, I took some pictures of the test jig and my Genny, any interest?
 
Last edited:

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
"They are rebuilding them, the nozzles are $65 each. Does that sound like a good price?"

Is that total cost per injector or parts price for nozzle with labor to be added to it?

Jerry

 

Jasonz in MO

New member
32
0
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
$65 includes the rebuild.

The only knob I could find is the reconnection switch knob. Are they the same?

Here are some pictures of my MEP and the compression test jig. The pictures were taken in my shop. Should have taken them with better lighting when it was outside.

The jig is build with an old glow plug I drilled out and tapped for the fittings. I used a Tee so I could remove the galvanized cap and squirt oil into the cylinder for the wet test. I didn't take a picture with it actually installed but it worked perfectly for all cylinders.

Next questions... in the picture of the air cleaner, there is the fitting for an air restriction gauge. Mine didn't have one installed when I bought it but it looks like the hole is plugged. Were they standard? In the same pictures is there is a round hold in the frame just behind the control box. Looks like mine had something mounted there but I sure can't figure it out... Any ideas?

Thanks you all for the expertise, this has been a very helpful site!

CIMG0226.jpgCIMG0224.jpgCIMG0221.jpgCIMG0220.jpgCIMG0225.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks