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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Migginsbros

Well-known member
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Berlin-Germany
Thanks for checking. The 1.5 don’t seem to fit. Could just be rust. I’ll try 1.25 and see if any better.
We recived today one ordered bolt for the fan.
It´s regular metric.M10 x 1.5 and 80mm long. It´s a better strength 10.9 bolt that is like Grade 8 with 6 lines on head.

The SEE engine no. 353.999 is not listed but we are shure it´s the same thread at the crankshaft flange like all the other 352/353 6Zyl.
What did you find out? Is your thread damaged?

IMG_6566.jpg IMG_6565.jpg
 

Iowaunimog

New member
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Location
Davenport/Iowa
Finally got to the farm to work on the SEE. You were correct, they are 1.5 pitch. Had to clean the threads out with tap. Now getting the radiator back in is a pain. TM is pretty clear on what it takes to radiator back in. Thanks for your kind assist.
 

alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Finally got to the farm to work on the SEE. You were correct, they are 1.5 pitch. Had to clean the threads out with tap. Now getting the radiator back in is a pain. TM is pretty clear on what it takes to radiator back in. Thanks for your kind assist.
The pipe stub for the lower radiator hose needs to go between the fan blades and then you have to manually turn the fan/engine while guiding the radiator towards its desired location. I have done that by myself but another set of hands would make the job much easier.
 
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Iowaunimog

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Yep. I learn slowly. Finally figured it out. Wish you had been looking over my shoulder. Would have saved me a couple hours and some sweat. Pretty satisfying to get it running finally.
 

alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Thanks, you are right this month, I think.[thumbzup]

View attachment 729630 View attachment 729631



If you like it... I´ve posted some more new pics from the SEE at https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-May-VOTE-HERE!
:tank::tank:
The "Motorkipper" (self-propelled dumper) in the second photo brings back good childhood memories. Growing up in Germany we would sneak into construction sites after hours, hot-wire or manually crank these dumpers and then "race" them around. Lot more fun could be had as a kid back then. And today I have my own, green, full-sized Tonka toy. Life is good.
 
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alpine44

Member
397
15
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Ja, wie der. Mit 'nem guten, alten Hatz Diesel. Mensch, das war'n Zeiten...
(Yes, like that one. with a good, old Hatz diesel engine. Those were the days...)

Unfortunately, you can't find these things here in the USA. They are very handy if you have to move dirt, bricks, cement bags, etc in tight areas where backing up a utility trailer is either a serious pain or an impossibility.

Another great tool most Americans missed to benefit from is the "Einachsschlepper" (single axle tractor). Do you guys have one of those?

At least they imported the Unimog.
 
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Toolee

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Washington
Hate to tell you, Toolee, but if you go back about two years in this thread you'll find photos of a quick-tach setup and partial hose routing.
I did it to run a snowblower, so no control valve involved, but check out Surplus Center (or a supplier of your choice) for options.
Oh, and welcome to the group.
Thanks for the welcome.
The SEE finally arrived, pulled backward on an RGN. Almost lost the hood because the broker didn't tell the driver to put it in the cab before taking off (that and the latch does not work).
20180525_060122.jpg
It was recapped in 2004, has 46 hours on it and the previous owner put a re-manufactured transmission and transfer case from Germany in it last fall. The IWI on the frame says it was manufactured in 2001 (WUB4191011W1xxxxx).
HourMeter.jpg
Michelin XM47s in a 405 70R20. No rubbing yet (but I haven't stretched out the suspension yet--waiting to see).
Avatar.jpgIMG_20180424_131108963.jpg
I took a page out of The FLU Farm catalog of operations and have a quick attach and thumb on it from Titan. I've got a case of paint from RAPCO to cover up that heinous red. Also have a three-point adapter that has been handy for moving trailers and implements around the yard.
IMG_24681.jpgIMG_24691.jpg
Next is adding the hydraulic lines and connectors to get my 80" Prime mower running off the rear hydraulics. Thanks to The FLU Farm for information related to this. I'll add my own pics and a parts list once I have all that set up.
MowerCropped.jpg
Awesome rig!
 
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The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I've got a case of paint from RAPCO to cover up that heinous red.
Looks like you got yourself a really nice one there, Toolee.
One suggestion though; when you're done covering up the red paint, I think you'll find that contrasting colors (and added lines) makes it much easier to hook things up to the quick-tach setup on the first try.

I happened to have lots of yellow paint, which was used to cover the red. I'm not worried about being seen. On the contrary, I have actually "misplaced" vehicles and trailers on the property a couple of times. One small trailer was MIA for several months before I happened to spot it from a ridge.
 

Toolee

New member
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Washington
What the heck is this?

...Next is adding the hydraulic lines and connectors to get my 80" Prime mower running off the rear hydraulics....
Hi All--
Take a look at the driver's-side front of your 419.101; below the grill...there is sort of a framed, half-circle opening with a four-hole bracket below it, between the radiator and frame.
20180530_172018.jpg
Anyone know what the bracket is normally used for? I am thinking of pulling the hydraulic hose I'll bring from the rear out this opening and using this bracket to attach a "bulkhead" plate so I can hard-mount the connectors.
 
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peakbagger

Well-known member
723
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63
Location
northern nh
I think that bracket and the half round opening is for a front PTO shaft. Other versions of the 406 family had some very beefy PTO powered winches on the front along with all sort of interesting accessories. I don't think any of the military 419 variants had a front PTO. Remember this body was built between 1963 and 1989 (maybe a year or two longer if the SEEs are included)and Mercedes custom built most of them so they left space for options.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Because of what's hopefully the most inept truck driver still holding a CDL, it went from thisDSCN2003[1].jpgto the ground, to this.DSCN2005[1].jpg

I really don't know how I managed without a crane.
 

lurkMcGurk

Member
55
17
8
Location
Bangor,Maine
Toolee great work and I'm sure I'm not the only one looking forward to seeing how the mower runs. Quick Q on the thumb from Titan, what size did you go with and having used it now would you go larger , smaller stay the same? Thanks
 

FarmMOG

New member
42
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0
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
I have been very busy with the farm and haven't had much of a chance to work on the FLU for a while, but that is about to change. I have an appointment with a hydraulic shop in two weeks to have a few things done. The bucket cylinder on the backhoe is leaking badly, so that will be rebuilt. They are also going to rebuild the front servo pack, as the front loader bleeds down during use, which makes doing precise work hard. The aux tool circuit is also stuck in the on position, so I have to keep the hoses connected to prevent the system from really heating up. Since these things have to be done, I am also having them add a splitter on the bucket tilt hydraulic line, and plumb an extra circuit to the front loader arms so I can connect any attachment that requires hydraulics. I am having them mount two sets of quick connectors up front. This will give me the ability to add a second remote circuit later that will have a control switch allowing full fluid flow without holding the tilt lever up or down. This will be done later when I can save up some more money.

I do have a quick question for anyone. I rebuilt several components in the air system and things work much better, except for the air supply for the transmission splitter, 4 wheel drive and hub lockers, and the remote throttle. There is a component that leaks sometimes and doesn't allow the system to build up pressure, then it seals itself somehow and everything works like it should for a while, then it starts leaking again. Anytime I use the rear hydraulics with the engine RPM running at 2000 for any length of time, the component leaks for a while. Does anyone have any idea what component might be the culprit? Thanks
 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
155
41
28
Location
Central Washington
Given that the symptom starts when you use the high idle circuit, i would suspect the components involved there. Namely the tool circuit switch and the throttle air cylinder. Looking at the air system diagrams in the student handout available in the TM section might be helpful too.

Can you hear the leakdown?
 
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