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unknown front axle spindle nut

Dsilverline

Member
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30
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Location
Crestline, Ca.
Hey guys,

Trying to get my front axle shaft out to do ball joints and u joint and I get to this nut which doesn't seem to match anything else I've seen. The axle's (84 CUCV) were swapped to 6 lug GM 10 bolts (previous owner) and Mile Marker hubs put in. I have the standard 4 prong spindle nut socket which certainly wont work here....Went to a local auto shop and they said they've never seen one like this either and we went through their entire drawer of spindle nut sockets and none were even close. The notches for the prongs are about 1.5" apart....Anybody know where these come from and where I can find a socket for it? I've been working on making one out of an old deep impact socket with a grinder and a dremel and it's taking forever....

Thanks!!!
Dave

IMG_20150731_121348570.jpg
 

cucvrus

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Easy to remedy. One of the holes has a small piece of flat stock in it as a lock. I think and hope the top one. You must remove the snap ring and then you can put an awl /ice pick in the hole in the end of the flat bar and remove the lock. Then just use your 4 prong socket and take it out. Reinstall in reverse of removal. I hope that helps. I like these nuts better then the twin nut set up.
 

cucvrus

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If you get the big spanner nut wiggle loose that the flat bar is loose a strong magnet gets the lock out of the slot also. Like I said these are my preferred type of spindle nuts in lieu if the twin nuts. Good luck with your nuts.
 

Dsilverline

Member
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30
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Location
Crestline, Ca.
wow, thanks for the quick reply! I'll look for the lock in there tomorrow. Don't know if you can see in the pic but this nut has 6 slots for the socket, not sure how the 4 prong socket will even work in there? Do you know what this type of nut is called?
 

sweetk30

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Location
horseheads,ny 14845
never seen one like that in over 20 years of playing with solid axle stuff.

sorry no help other wise .

ditch them and go regular . junk yars any 1/2 ton set will work and some 3/4 ton if light axle gvw.
 

cucvrus

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Big spanner nut with 6 ears. No but I use my 4 prong socket on mine. I am sure if I ask the Snap-on man he will have a $125. socket that fits it perfectly. But I do not know the correct name for the 6 eared spanner nut. But I like it.
 

sweetk30

Member
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6
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Location
horseheads,ny 14845
Big spanner nut with 6 ears. No but I use my 4 prong socket on mine. I am sure if I ask the Snap-on man he will have a $125. socket that fits it perfectly. But I do not know the correct name for the 6 eared spanner nut. But I like it.
when someone in my area ask's the snap-on guy about the sockets for this my cell phone rings to get the part # . . . ha ha ha or barrow it .
 

Recovry4x4

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I vaguely remember seeing something like those used in conjunction with the auto locking hubs offered for a while on the GM half and 3/4 tons. Could be very wrong.
 

cucvrus

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I just think it is old school. I only see them on the 1984 CUCV M1009. That has been my experience. But I do like it better then the double nut system. Line it up put the stop in , snap ring and done. I always give it a little tweak tight to hold the lock in place. My preference.
 

joshuak

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TM-20. Section 8.4, Rotor and wheel bearing maintenance, states that there are two different hub nut wrenches required depending on the year of your '09.

1984 Nut wrench J-34616

1985-87 Hub nut wrench, J-6893-D

I have an '86 and had to buy the 4 prong socket, the socket you seem to need is part of the Auto zone loan a tool program.

Good luck
 

Dsilverline

Member
51
30
18
Location
Crestline, Ca.
I figured a PO had swapped the axles to civvy GM 10 bolts due to the 6 lugs at the end but I haven't identified the axles beyond the 10 bolts on the diff cover. Stock the M1009 had 8 lug axles right?

Porkysplace - yeah, saw that one too! It doesn't say the size but I'm going to find out, I think that's just Mile Markers version of the standard one for 1 ton trucks though....

Joshuak - 1984 Nut wrench J-34616 looks like it might be the one! I certainly haven't seen that one before- Great find! I went through the manuals and didn't see that, course I spent most of the time looking at civvy stuff
 

porkysplace

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I figured a PO had swapped the axles to civvy GM 10 bolts due to the 6 lugs at the end but I haven't identified the axles beyond the 10 bolts on the diff cover. Stock the M1009 had 8 lug axles right?

Porkysplace - yeah, saw that one too! It doesn't say the size but I'm going to find out, I think that's just Mile Markers version of the standard one for 1 ton trucks though....

Joshuak - 1984 Nut wrench J-34616 looks like it might be the one! I certainly haven't seen that one before- Great find! I went through the manuals and didn't see that, course I spent most of the time looking at civvy stuff
No, M1009's came with 6 lugs.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

joshuak

Active member
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Location
Slower shore, DE
I went through the manuals and didn't see that, course I spent most of the time looking at civvy stuff
These manuals? Also found elsewhere on the inter web.

Not sure how deep your going, but fellow member top_prop shared this thread on the matter. He follows the procedure outlined in the TM9-2320-289-20 and also provides pictures, thank you top_prop. If you are also going to change u-joint, ball joints, etc. and want to read about it, jump over to the TM9-2320-289-34.

[thumbzup]
 

Dsilverline

Member
51
30
18
Location
Crestline, Ca.
Yeah, those ones, I just didn't look well enough haha. Yeah, I'm changing u-joints and ball joints all in one shot go so I'll check those out. Thanks!

Ordered the kent moore socket off of ebay to get the current nuts off (no amount of messing around with a screwdriver and hammer would do it) but I bought a couple dana kits with the normal 4 prong nuts to put back on - I really like parts being standardized and easy to get...
 

joshuak

Active member
747
214
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
Yeah, I'm changing u-joints and ball joints all in one shot go so I'll check those out...
About the BJ's, you may know this already, but there is another "specialty tool" required for the upper ball stud adjusting sleeve, located in the steering knuckles. In order to remove this sleeve the TM-34 calls for the "Ball stud adjuster sleeve, J-23447" or Ball joint spanner wrench.

Here is said adjuster sleeve with my feeble attempt of making the socket needed for the job, I think a new grinder disc and a vise would have helped (plenty of vices and no vise, go figure). I chose not to buy the socket and use a flat head screw driver and hammer to tap the prong closest to the contraction joint (for lack of better term) and chase that around to both remove the old one and install the new ones, righty tighty-lefty loosey applies for these as well. YMMV.


IMG_0593.jpg

:grd:
 

cucvrus

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I never remove them. I was told not to years ago and I have not done it since. The caster camber is not adjustable on these axles. I did look at one of these on a junk axle and it did not appear to be an essentric. I did alignments 30 years ago at a dealership and I would not know how you would adjust that nut when doing an alignment. You would have to tear the entire axle apart to do it properly. Just saying. I never change that inner nut. I just make sure the ball joint is tight when I am finished. Am I doing something wrong. IDK. Worked for me all these years.
 
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