Installed new Bilstein shocks on front and back. Also installed a new KYB on the front linkage. The rear shocks were not hard, just had to learn a few things along the way:
Passenger Rear:
Use a wedge to make room for your hand to get at inside rail nut- gently pry the muffler towards driveline. I used a hammer- it just needs to move a little. I found out after sneaking my hand in and scraping it on the way out.
You can look directly up the frame rail through a hole in the channel and get eyes on the nut for wrench placement.
Driver Rear:
I used about a 12" 1/2" extension on a ratcheting breaker bar from HFT. Slide in from under the tailgate so you can get the 15/16" on the nut and give it h3ll. The smaller increments on this breaker are just the ticket for the tight operating space. The lower shock nuts were 7/8" and 15/16" (OR 3/4" and 7/8"- bloods still returning to my brain). I had to go feet first and kick the wrench after lubing it with Kroil.
The Fronts were easier: A socket and box wrench to keep the inside rail nut from spinning. The top and bottom bolt still had a lot of tension, so I took it up with a pry bar (2x4) till I wiggled the bottom bolt out- then the top slips out easily.
In all cases the Bilsteins I had were not locked in the compressed position- having to compress them in tight quarters was a workout. I used an open end wrench to hook into the bottom shock mount, raising and sliding the bottom eye towards the mounting yoke. I recommend a helper or steroids.
Front steering stabilizer from KYB couldn't be easier- 11/16" wrench- I forgot what socket for the end opposite the piston. Don't loosen the castle nut that is locked with wire- there is an 11/16" nut on the back where the shock eye slips over that bolt.
Here's a pic of the shocks and boxes for reference: Bilstein Fronts: 24-009232; Rears: (old p/n F4-B46-0933-H1) new p/n 24-009331
KYB Steering Stabilizer: SS10325
Passenger Rear:
Use a wedge to make room for your hand to get at inside rail nut- gently pry the muffler towards driveline. I used a hammer- it just needs to move a little. I found out after sneaking my hand in and scraping it on the way out.
You can look directly up the frame rail through a hole in the channel and get eyes on the nut for wrench placement.
Driver Rear:
I used about a 12" 1/2" extension on a ratcheting breaker bar from HFT. Slide in from under the tailgate so you can get the 15/16" on the nut and give it h3ll. The smaller increments on this breaker are just the ticket for the tight operating space. The lower shock nuts were 7/8" and 15/16" (OR 3/4" and 7/8"- bloods still returning to my brain). I had to go feet first and kick the wrench after lubing it with Kroil.
The Fronts were easier: A socket and box wrench to keep the inside rail nut from spinning. The top and bottom bolt still had a lot of tension, so I took it up with a pry bar (2x4) till I wiggled the bottom bolt out- then the top slips out easily.
In all cases the Bilsteins I had were not locked in the compressed position- having to compress them in tight quarters was a workout. I used an open end wrench to hook into the bottom shock mount, raising and sliding the bottom eye towards the mounting yoke. I recommend a helper or steroids.
Front steering stabilizer from KYB couldn't be easier- 11/16" wrench- I forgot what socket for the end opposite the piston. Don't loosen the castle nut that is locked with wire- there is an 11/16" nut on the back where the shock eye slips over that bolt.
Here's a pic of the shocks and boxes for reference: Bilstein Fronts: 24-009232; Rears: (old p/n F4-B46-0933-H1) new p/n 24-009331
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