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Aux Battery Cable Routing

408
0
16
Location
Colo.
I'm installing this to charge my house battery in the camper while I'm driving, and for a couple of other reasons:

Product Documents for Add a Battery - PN 7650 - Blue Sea Systems

I'd like to mount the switch and box in the cab behind the bench seat. For those of you who have routed pretty large battery cables, what is the simplest way to route it (1028)? I'd also need to have a way out for the incoming + and - from the house battery, but can likely use the same entrance.

I'll be pulling off the front battery and will likely install a stud or bus under the hood to keep the battery connections clean.

Thanks.

Also, for pulling 12v when the key is in the start position I planned on run a wire from the starter relay where the purple/white is connected. See any issues with that?
 

Bad_Carp

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Palm Springs, Ca
You need a battery equalizer or a converter. Pulling power from one battery will screw up your system and you will have issues. Search for info on equalizers or converters
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
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Evart,Michigan
I think I would run the cables along the frame under the truck then up to were you want the switch. if you run them threw the cab kind of hard to hide them going from front to back use rubber or covered straps to hold it and its out of the way and sight! 2cents
 
408
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16
Location
Colo.
I think I would run the cables along the frame under the truck then up to were you want the switch. if you run them threw the cab kind of hard to hide them going from front to back use rubber or covered straps to hold it and its out of the way and sight! 2cents
I may have to forgo having the switch in the cab then. I just can't see where I'd be able to fish in 2g or 4g wire. I think you've got the right idea. I can still run a small wire for a LED indicator, which should be enough. Thanks.
 

Bad_Carp

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Palm Springs, Ca
The question was about efficient/easy access cable routing. Did you see the link?
Yes, I saw the link, I also saw

I'll be pulling off the front battery...
and didn't want you to make a mistake so many have. But you seem to take helpful hints so well that I'll step aside, was just trying to help.
 
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408
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16
Location
Colo.
Couple more questions on this project. If I pulled 12v from the rear battery neg post, would that give me the advantage of having the power of 2 alternators and more balancing over just using the pos on the front battery?

Also, I need a hot for the ignition switch run position. Should I spice into the purple/white wire, or just run another ring terminal on that wire's connection to the starter relay?

Thanks.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
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Location
Evart,Michigan
You will never get power from both alternators one is for one battery and the other is for the second battery both alternates are only 12 volt the only thing that is 24 volt is the starter nothing else that is why the starter relay is there so the 12 volt switch can switch 24 volt to the starter to work it Now that I understand you want a power source when the key is on you cannot use the purple/white stripe wire you want for that purpose it is only hot in the crank position in the run position it is dead there should be a couple of post on the fuse block under dash with 12 volt with key on you can use just will have to test to find one
 
408
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16
Location
Colo.
Sorry, I misstyped, I need crank only for the isolator disconnect while starting. For that, should I tap into the purple/white, or just go right to the starter relay post with the purple/white?

I'm very aware of the 12/24 wiring, just wondering if it's OK to pull off the rear - for 12v +, then ground the house battery through the front - on a busbar. Seems fine to me, just needed to double check.
 

stampy

Active member
1,321
22
38
Location
Henderson. NC
never mind I see you want 12v. 24v to 12v transformers on ebay. Around 40$ Then you pull off both alternators and batteries and get regulated 12v. Just put a switch on the dash, and wire back to a trailer type plug.
 
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SGT Estum

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Twin Cities, MN
I'm very aware of the 12/24 wiring, just wondering if it's OK to pull off the rear - for 12v +, then ground the house battery through the front - on a busbar. Seems fine to me, just needed to double check.
Pulling off the rear battery negative post would be the same as pulling from the front battery positive post, as they're directly connected together via the "dog bone".
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
If you need a crank only signal then yes you can tap the purple/white wire its hot only when in crank position with the key! you should really do the doghead starter relay swap if you have not yet. save yourself a starter some time down the road ! [thumbzup]
 
408
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16
Location
Colo.
To clear up some more confusion:

Doghead has been done a long time ago. Just wondering, if I need crank only 12v, should I splice into the purple/white, or can I just run a wire with a ring connector to the starter relay that it taps into. Or should I just go straight to the starter solinoid. It's a brief connection that allows the relay to cut off during starting to prevent a surge to the camper battery and whatever electronics are running off of it.

As for the camper battery, it's not a trailer, or connected or grounded to one. I've been running my popup in the bed of the 1028 all by itself with solar.

So can I tap into rear batt - for 12v + from the truck, run a big butt wire to the camper battery through the relay, and then run the ground off the camper battery back into the chassis? Will this cause a weirdness circuit with the isolated ground on the rear gen?
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
Pulling off the rear battery negative post would be the same as pulling from the front battery positive post, as they're directly connected together via the "dog bone".
Voltage wise, yes, but the rear battery is charged by a different gen, and I want to give the front gen a break, because it works for 90% of all loads. That is the goal. I just had a question regarding feeding back a ground which would be connected to the front batt.
 
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