• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Brake calipers and pads

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
656
907
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
My rear brakes are pretty much shot, almost no pad left and I think the rear calipers are sticking (I can hear them catch when I reverse). I've been looking and I see different calipers on different sites, as well as different pads.. some say 10k, 12k, etc..

I've got a 1988 M998, never been armored. The brakes on the rear have the integrated parking brake, so new calipers need to have the same.

Can anyone guide me as to what calipers, rotors and pads I need to get? (As well as if I need to inspect any other parts "while I'm at it" so I don't get in there and be unable to complete the part change?). (I already know I need the special turning tool if I do want to re-use the existing calipers)


My front brakes have what looks to me like about 1/2 pad remaining, so less urgent, but I guess same question. If I'm going to do the rear, I'll probably buy the parts for the front as well.
 
Last edited:

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,834
4,049
113
Location
Olympia/WA
your truck is an early one, so it will be the 10" and 10k rated stuff.

You can get the parts straight from AM General, but they're marked at around $550 each for the calipers.
For $50 each you can buy the rebuild kits and do the rebuild yourself. Not all that complicated if you are mechanically inclined.
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
656
907
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
your truck is an early one, so it will be the 10" and 10k rated stuff.

You can get the parts straight from AM General, but they're marked at around $550 each for the calipers.
For $50 each you can buy the rebuild kits and do the rebuild yourself. Not all that complicated if you are mechanically inclined.
Thanks, so 10"/10k is what I'm looking for. That is a massive help.

My hope was to get a NOS (or new) set for around $600-$700, then afterwards rebuild the current set. That way I have a spare.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,551
113
Location
East Tennessee
And, if you want to replace the front calipers with new ones, go to auto parts store and get them for 1987 AMC Eagle Wagon 4x4. Maybe $20 - $30 ea now.
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
656
907
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
After a lot more research.. front/rear pads and rotors are the same. Looks to be fairly inexpensive at standard auto parts places.

The rear calipers (remanufactured) at the same places, for the 1992 Hummer H1 run about $235 (after a $50 core fee). So that is a bunch cheaper then most places I've found them listed. My understanding is the H1 and M998 are the same rear calipers (both the 10k axles).
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,571
1,420
113
Location
Mayo, MD
My rear brakes are pretty much shot, almost no pad left and I think the rear calipers are sticking (I can hear them catch when I reverse).
Usually when caliper stick, it's because the guide pins are dry and/or corroded. When you remove the calipers, put fresh grease on the guide pins. That should fix the problem. I'm referring to the pins at the top and bottom which align and guide the two halves of the caliper as they open and close.
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,506
2,707
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
Which rear calipers do you have? Standard ones with old parking brake or the newer style parking brake? Newer style is pricey and hard to find. Not sure if they even have a kit available?
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
656
907
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
As quoted by a person above. The brake pads seem to be sticking. In the past when I've encountered that it's because when the parking brake releases it doesn't actually fully retract like it should (same possibly with the hydraulic cylinder). I was assuming this is the same issue. The guide pins might be part of the issue, but the pads are tight against the rotor even with the parking brake removed, no amount of wiggling seems to free them on my part.. (tight as in contacting, not tight as in _gripping_. When the parking brake is on, then it's gripping and the vehicle won't move.).

On my other (civilian) vehicles with parking brakes on the rear hydraulic calipers I can usually spread the pads slightly and force a thin shim or piece of paper in there, I can't on the M998.

The other thing when I reverse I can hear clicking with what sounds like the brake grabbing and letting go.

As far as parts, I have the new style rear with integrated parking brake. I have found I can get reman units for about $235 a piece. (For an H1, but I've been told these are identical the M998 w/ 10k axle that I have.)
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks