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Cab/Bed removal Difficulty

Psychowolff

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Hi Guys, just using the down time and deep Sub-Zero temps here in MN to do some planning for this spring/summer. I have a '77 M880 (duh) and although I don't have the time/money to do a real restoration, I would still like to pull the cab and box off this summer and Por15 the frame and underside. I have pulled the doors, dash, and seat before but nothing much more than that. So I know there are people in here that have done it, was it a Bit... Uh, 'Pain' to do?? Anything I should be cautious about? Thanks in advance for the info guys!
 

NDT

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It's a pain but a very good idea. Replace the fuel pickup while you have it apart.
 

Psychowolff

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It's a pain but a very good idea. Replace the fuel pickup while you have it apart.
LOL But all the videos make it seem like a weekend job! J/K But they do make it seem like a breeze, maybe they just don't want to Vid the cussing and knuckle busting.

By 'fuel Pickup' you mean an in tank fuel pump or the fuel level gauge?

I have copied all the TM's but they don't give you any clue as to how much of a pain it is.

Thanks for the reply!
 

NDT

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Fuel pickup is combo level sending unit and fuel pickup tube. This part is well known to go bad, the filter on the end gets plugged, the tube gets rusted holes, and the sender quits working. The cab/bed removal is self-explanatory but involves removal of lots of rusted fasteners.
 

rtk

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Like anything old , it depends on the RUST FACTOR , to take the pick up box off is not a big deal , you have a harness , fuel fill , and body hold down bolts . What are you planing to use as a hoist ? not THAT heavy .... but , you will need soldier B . Cab is a little more involved , you really need to take the SNOOT off , then the steering , brakes , harness's etc , and the body bolts . As they say some disassemble required . Once you do all that you are looking at a full resto . good luck , bob k
 

Psychowolff

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I know there are guys looking for these in good condition to restore them. I am not going to go that far (or expensive) but I don't want to ruin any future value.

Does it matter if the Numbers match? I'd like to rebuild/refresh something then swap it out, that 'plan' would mess it up if I sold it to a guy to be restored.

Is anybody interested in writing up a FAQ about the M880??? Restore tips, Do's and Don'ts, things to look for when buying, what is rare, what is common yadda yadda yadda...

Thanks again guys, Its giving me a bit to think about! ;-) with -20 temps, thats a Good thing!
 

Psychowolff

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" tube gets rusted holes, and the sender quits working. The cab/bed removal is self-explanatory but involves removal of lots of rusted fasteners."

No, I think you misunderstood me. I have a Dodge M880. Dodge put an antirust coating on them so there Wont be any rusted fasteners and stuff to deal with!!!
rofl
 

michigandon

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I want to pull my bed come springtime to do the exact same thing. Planning on grinding all that flaky undercoating off from underneath, and Raptor line the underneath as well as inside the bed.
 

rebelreck

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I have swapped more dodge truck body parts, than I ever care to count. You will need at LEAST 4 people to move the bed off of the frame. Use some sort of penatrating oil on the bolts. Start several days before You attemp to do this, and spray all the bolts and nuts down. If You have a small propane torch, apply heat just before You try to remove the bolts and nuts (if You can reach it). TAKE pictures of everything before You remove it, so You will know where it goes back too. While You are there inspect Your brake , and fuel lines. Any amount of rust replace them. Also this is a good time to make sure all You ground wires are in good shape.
 

Psychowolff

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Thanks Rebel, thats the kind of info I was looking for, an opinion from someone thats been there a few times. ;-)

A quick question about another 'part'. Do you know if the 727 transmission from a '77 2wd half ton is the same as in the M880? or did they change the bell/rear nose/??? on them just to be a PITA? Also, what is your opinion of the 360 VS the 318? (power, mpg, reliability)

I am looking at getting a '77 half ton with a 360/727 and was wondering about pulling it, rebuilding them, then swapping it out with the M880 eng/tranny. I don't want to mod it much, just a good carb and exhaust to let it breath better, and at $3.60 a gallon, MPG is an issue to me.
 

rtk

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360 is a nice upgrade , the only difference in the 727 transmission's I believe is the 727 in the 880 is a SHORT tail shaft and the 2WD uses a LONG tail shaft , if MY OP memory serves me . Same case , just different tail shaft and output shaft . BTW , MPG ? depends how much FOOT you put into it .
 

rebelreck

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The 2 wheel drive has a different output shaft, and no tailshaft housing. Otherwise the same. You have to tear down the tranny to change out the tail shaft. If You change from a 318 to a 360, You have to use a 360 torque converter. You will not see a lot of MPG improvement between the 318/360. You will see some power and performance improvement with the 360. depending on how You rebuild it, you can increase Your MPG some. To improve all around street driving, change out Your ring and pinion to 3.55. You 880 has 4.10/4.11 more than likely.
Rebuilding Your engine and transmission is always a good thing to do. Then again, if Your truck has low milage, and runs good. Dont mess with it.
 

Hardware02

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I have swapped more dodge truck body parts, than I ever care to count. You will need at LEAST 4 people to move the bed off of the frame. Use some sort of penatrating oil on the bolts. Start several days before You attemp to do this, and spray all the bolts and nuts down. If You have a small propane torch, apply heat just before You try to remove the bolts and nuts (if You can reach it). TAKE pictures of everything before You remove it, so You will know where it goes back too. While You are there inspect Your brake , and fuel lines. Any amount of rust replace them. Also this is a good time to make sure all You ground wires are in good shape.
^^^This^^^

I've never restored an M880 but based on just working on anything mechanical...once the cab and bed are off the frame there'll be a whole lot of might as wells. Cab/bed are off, might as well blast frame before PORing it. Cab/bed are off, might as well pull the fuel tank...might as well rebuild...and so on and son on...:-D
 

rtk

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it's all the old "MIGHT AS WELL AS" once you are down to the frame . This is where the FUN STARTS ! good luck
 

M35A2TN

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I am restoring a '77 W150 Macho Power Wagon with the 360/727 combo, it enjoys fuel, but so much as warnings when you start to tear it down, you will find more then enough stuff that needs to be repaired and replaced, I guarantee it my friend. I can answer any questions you have about your truck, especially with it being a '77 model. PM me if you have anything special you need to ask, or advice on how to go about tearing something down. my bed came off simply with myself, a forklift and my step-brother and being apt enough to get the forks between the bumper and bed and lifting up. My cab has also come off, nothing special envolved either, 4 bolts. 1 Hour. Not too much heartache. Best of luck on yours my friend!
 
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