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fast idle temp switch

jakwi

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Colorado Springs
I called a chevy dealer. They want $40 some odd dollars. The old p/n 14071047 crosses to a new p/n 10154649. So I googled ACDelco 10154649 which is available from Amazon for $18.49 plus shipping. I'm surprised the local part stores don't have them.

so the next question is do I need to drain the Coolant in order to change it?

Thanks for the help btw.
 

badgmc56

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No, you don't have to drain the coolant if you can get at the switch fairly easy. Wait till the engine is cold, crack the radiator cap to release any pressure and tighten the cap back up. Loosen the old switch, have the new one ready and make a quick swap. you will loose very little coolant if you do it right. Hope this helps ya, Bob C.
 

jakwi

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Thanks I'm planning on swapping out the fuel filter housing for a spin on type so I'll probably do this at the same time as it's directly below the filter. In the mean time it's a lot more difficult to start, it tends to want to stall immediately, and at stoplights (which I don't quite understand as it should be warmed up by then)
 

firecontrol86

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i think i need to replace mine as well, i know some mornings it should be doing the high idle to warm up but it's not. did you end up ordering one off amazon or going to the dealer?
 

doghead

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The fast idle solenoid is known to either stick or go bad, causing no fast idle. Test for power to it, before assuming the switch is bad. Lubricate it with your favorite spray lube and exercise it by hand to get it moving smooth and easy. Press the throttle down while starting and see if you get fast idle(the solenoid needs no resistance to actuate properly).
 

jakwi

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I haven't ordered it yet, payday is friday, but I'm going to order it through amazon, why pay more. I did test for power at the switch, but it wasn't coming through, I thought the switch was a sealed unit, How can I lube it?, or do you mean the fast idle solenoid at the IP? I know the solenoid works because if I apply 12v it functions Are the fast idle and cold advance solenoids 12v or 24v? My m1009 was converted to 12v by the po, so I have 12v applied, but I'm not sure if they are all that way or just mine.

On a side note, in a pinch It seems you could feed the fast idle solenoid circuit from one of the glowplugs or if the solenoids are 24v from the GP relay, but you'd need to make sure you disconnected the fast idle temp switch so if it decided to start working it wouldn't back feed the Glow plugs. It would turn off the fast idle at a slightly higher temp, but it should work.

thanks all for the help
 

jakwi

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Colorado Springs
You need to check power when it is dead cold, first check at the solenoid on the IP, There is a green wire, which
daisy chains to two connectors. The first is the cold advance and the second is the fast idle solenoid. You can look for
power at either of these places. If there is non Check at the Fast idle temperature switch which is installed in the rear
side of the passenger side head. I can't remember the color of the wire but one is green, so check the other one. If you
have power there then the problem is with the switch, if you have power at the solenoid but it isn't activating then
replace the solenoid. If you check it when the engine is hot or even warm the switch may be tripped in which case you
won't have power at the solenoid. The idea is that the cold advance and fast idle are activated when the engine is less
than 95 degrees.

Key needs to be on but the engine off.
 

hg adams

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I've been having problems with my fast idle also. When I put 12 volts to the solenoid and push the rod in manually it will stay and keep the idle up. When I take the power off, the rod pops back out. I would assume the solenoid is bad.
 

Hasdrubal

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Vancouver BC
I wired my fast idle/ ip advance to an illuminated rocker switch in my dash. Reason being is I live by several big hills. I found that the sensor switched off while I still needed the cold advance on. It goes much better up hill now. Only use it during the several minutes until it gets hot. I can turn it off at the same location the sensor used to cycle off, the difference is quite noticeable. Plus..I like the idea of having full manual control. Most usefull during the winter, of course.
 

Milbikes

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CT
I also have no fast idle. I checked voltage at the solenoid near the injector pump (Truck was cold) and got .4 volts. That probably indicates a bad temperature switch? H.
 

jakwi

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Location
Colorado Springs
.4 seems very low, make sure your have a good ground on your black lead to your meter. If you are still getting .4v you can check your solenoid independently in two steps

First get someone to hold the throttle down, or jam something on the pedal.

Second apply 12 v to the solenoid. It should pop out.

If it works then either your switch is bad, or the wiring, ... or basically anything in that supply chain. You'll have to work your way back with a meter.

Understand that the solenoid doesn't have the strength to advance the throttle, it will only hold it. That is why the starting instructions state to apply full throttle. When cold you apply full throttle, and then turn the key on. At this point the solenoid activates so that when you let off the throttle the idle is boosted by the solenoid. Once the engine is warmed up the solenoid is released and the spring tension from the throttle pushes it back in place. My solenoid wouldn't even return on its own, it's really a very simple system.

Hope this helps, and good luck
 

CUCV85

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Location
central/ny
Thanks I'm planning on swapping out the fuel filter housing for a spin on type so I'll probably do this at the same time as it's directly below the filter. In the mean time it's a lot more difficult to start, it tends to want to stall immediately, and at stoplights (which I don't quite understand as it should be warmed up by then)
no, don't do the fuel filter change out at the same time. Always run you engine for a bit before you do a fuel filter change or total change out.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/30327-fuel-filter-changeout.html
aboonski video
I bought a spin on type housing and filter. I ended up finding a brand new oem setup without the miltary fuel pressure sensor bu ll cr ap for $63.00
http://oem-surplus.com/gmwp/gmc.htm?zoom_highlight=chevy+fuel+filter
12471725 63.00
I didn't want to loose the OEM water in fuel system alert or fuel heater.
 

Whitfield

Member
116
5
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Location
Richmond Virginia
Not the temp switch ~ but the fast idle switch..

How Much??? $153.99 @ my local parts house...

I'll take my chance on a used one for that much.

BWD Idle Air Control Valve


Part No. 21981Warranty


Be the first to write a review| View Customer Q&A


Product Application(s):
1986 Chevrolet K30
  • Exact fit for this vehicle



$153.99
Quantity
 
Last edited:

Pballer71

Member
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6
Location
Michigan
I know this is a slightly old thread, but I just want to make sure that i'm looking at the right sensor and if its what could be causing my fast idle solenoid not to engage. I'm new to a lot of this so please be patient. The first pic is the pic of the sensor that i think goes to the fast idle solenoid and that i need to replace and the second picture is what happened when i pulled the socket with the green and pink wires out of it when i wanted to check the contacts it looks like the male contact pulled right out of the sensor. So is this the sensor that goes to the fast idle solenoid? And where could i get a new one?
 

Attachments

Warthog

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Here is the diagram for the coolant sensors. They are listed in the TM 9-2320-289-34P manual, diagram #54. The Fast Idle switch is item #2.

If you are looking for a part, skim through the parts manual to find the picture and the part number will be listed.

The original GM part number is 14071047. As stated earlier it has been ungraded to GM part number 10154649

Here are some interchangeable part numbers.

GM 10154649 - expensive. Dealers may not have them. Amazon is around $100
Oreilly's - BWD WT7266 ~$70
NAPA - ECH TS7265 ~$40

Coolant Switch.jpg
 
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