Fuel polishing

frank8003

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I made a nice inexpensive filter setup for my Deuce. Have since sold that actual setup.
I also had multiple 55 gallon drums full of new and used oil, (none ever from diesel crankcases) and had zero problems. I put one cansiter on the pump output to assure clean fuel.
The setups are simple, moved a lot of fuel and very easy to maintain.
I am now going to put my filters and my last three filter heads in the classified section.
They will be listed for not much money.
They work. I had the cleanest fuel in the Deuce fuel tank ever, continuously filtered down to one micron if I thought that necessary. On the road I just used 3 micron filter, easily changed out, but never had to. Also I didn't have to change the truck mounted original filters again, so it was money and time saving.
I was going to patent it but there is almost no market and that is expensive so I give it away.
fuel filter setup mine IMG_4242.jpgIMG_4840.jpgmy 6 micron filterpumpjob IMG_0296.jpg
 
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Bmxenbrett

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Not sure what kind of old gas vehicle pump you are talking about. Old to me is the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine! I guess that shows my age. Do you have a link or a picture of one?
Old meaning removed from service. An electric pump.

Personaly i would rather use poly 55gal drum than steel.
Poly dosnt rust from the inside or out. Prob get less condensation inside too.
 

Demoh

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Although not real popular on here - I use a black plastic 55 gal drum to store fuel for my MEP-803A. ( with additives of course)
...Personaly i would rather use poly 55gal drum than steel.
Poly dosnt rust from the inside or out. Prob get less condensation inside too.

As long as they are completely opaque. some algae needs the UV. Ive seen that fuel in IBCs doesnt last nearly as long as it should.

I was in the market of some of those flexible bladders that went up recently but price never got low enough.

Some plastics are permeable to some chemicals. I have a dozen 15 gallon poly drums that I would store various fluids in, but I have noticed that whatever those are made of (looks the same as a poly 55) they stain really badly and you can tell where the diesel was filled to, ended up retiring them to trash bin service. The ones used briefly for diesel are still stained. Definitely check compatibility before using anything but metal.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,

Also a side note. You will want to use a floating pickup. You may want to polish all the upper level of fuel, and leave maybe the bottom 2 inches, and use other methods for the last remaining. Water sits at the bottom when it settles.
 

Bmxenbrett

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If your keeping that white barrel outside you should paint or cover it with something so no light can get in. Fuel grows stuff when sun can get to it.
 

Guyfang

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This applies to diesel fuel, gasoline is a different topic. When talking about contaminates there are three biggies to worry about. Water, algae, and general dirt/ rust. Water occurs primarily from condensation, bad fuel, poor sealing caps and fittings. Once the amount of water in diesel fuel reaches 1%, algae can grow. Rust and dirt shouldn’t need an explanation.

From the above it should come as no surprise prevention is the best course of action.

So, what about fuel polishing. It will depend on how much fuel that needs to be dealt with, what kind of problems there may be and what does the budget allow.

Probably one of the best filters is one from a Beta fuel setup. They remove water and are rated for 50 GPM. The design allows fuel to pass thru the filter and water collects in the bottom of the housing during use to be drained off later. The full Beta pumping rig is a little too big for most users. However, the small 24V transfer pumps work quite well, and pump 35 GPM. Using a transfer pump thru a beta filter will remove the water.



If you need to clean up large amounts of fuel, this is the way to do it. My thugs and I had to help setup two fueling points, when the POMCUS, (Prepositioning Of Materiel Configured in Unit Sets) when the equipment was being taken out of storage and sent to the First Great Sand Box War. The fuel points, 4 of them, pumped straight from 30,000 gal rail car. The fuel was first pumped to fuel bladders, and then through the filters shown above. Good clean fuel came out the other end of the hose. You could mount one of these filters shown below, near your fuel source. Easy to clean filters. was real nice! Google POMCUS. Very interesting read. The first picture that comes up, showing a tank being parked in one of the buildings, was about 300 meters from my shop. There were thousands of vehicles on Miesau Army Depot where I worked. And Tens of Thousands, in the K-Town area.

What if the fuel has algae growing in it? A heavy treatment of algaecide will kill the algae and after it settles to the bottom of the tank the Beta filter will filter the algae from the fuel. A nice setup would be a Beta tank, transfer pump, thru a Beta filter back into the tank or another tank. 55-gallon drums or any other fuel tank would accomplish the task just as well.

View attachment 755028
View attachment 755029
View attachment 755030
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frank8003

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Refer to parts for sale. I lowered the total price of two filters and a new head for Steel Soldiers.
Anyone with a Deuce already has the pump. You can set it up on a hand truck.
Take outlet from in-tank pump to the filter head/ filter and the outlet from the filter right back to the tank with a hose. Filters entire fuel tank in less than two hours. Put your battery charger on.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...and-filter-heads-24-bucks-shipping-Have-three
 

captain

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I have also been looking into this. What I cant find out for sure is if you can clean the fuel in one pace with say a racor 1000fh in 2 micron. Or do you need to series them with a 10 micron then a 2 micron in order to get all the water and particulate out? I plan to parallel 2 china knock offs racor 1000fh but use genuine racor 2 micron filters. I'm just not sure if I need each of those to have a 10 micron in series with it. Northern tool has a nice 120v fuel pump. Its 22 gpm though. That I think is a bit high for one 1000fh hence the 2 in parallel.
 

Bmxenbrett

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I think that depends on how dirty your fuel is. The idea would be to catch most of the junknin the 10micron and mabe change that twice for every one time you change the 2 micron.
 

gimpyrobb

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Depends on how clean your fuel is. If unknown, id do separate filters at 30, 10, and 2. Maybe even a screen for a prefilter.
 

frank8003

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I have also been looking into this. What I cant find out for sure is if you can clean the fuel in one pace with say a racor 1000fh in 2 micron. Or do you need to series them with a 10 micron then a 2 micron in order to get all the water and particulate out? I plan to parallel 2 china knock offs racor 1000fh but use genuine racor 2 micron filters. I'm just not sure if I need each of those to have a 10 micron in series with it. Northern tool has a nice 120v fuel pump. Its 22 gpm though. That I think is a bit high for one 1000fh hence the 2 in parallel.
Here read this
Available is One or Two or three filters series or parallel with filters in any flavor you may desire. Power plants use Kaydonand PALL filters for lube oil polishing. That is way overkill for what you want and costs thousands.

Half the battle is to never ever reuse a diesel engine crankcase drain oil as without a centrifuge the soot can not be assured to be removed. Current drain oil from gas cars and trucks is good to use.

On a multifuel one is attempting to protect the hydraulic head internal hand fitted lapped mechanism.

Yesterday I removed my ad for Norman filter heads and filters, 130 views, no takers at under 35 bucks total. I can not afford to give them away but will do even lower price for SS.

View attachment GG spin on 606M 6 micron.pdfhuman hair.jpg
 
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smokem joe

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Green OH
I used the last of the fuel from one of my drums today in machinery. Drum is still spotless inside. I ran the last couple gallons through a Mr Funnel to see if there was any water. I didn't really see anything but still dumped the last 1/3 of a gallon or so in with waste oil.
 

tstone

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The basic principle to keeping fuel clean and moisture free is to eliminate (AS BEST AS POSSIBLE) the presence of moisture and oxygen from inside of the fuel storage tank. I store my diesel fuel in 600 gallon aluminum surplus tanks. I fill the tanks to the fill line ( about 4"from the top) and attach a 20 pound propane tank with a regulator, to the tank. I open the propane tank only when pumping fuel from the tank, which is a substitute for the atmospheric air that would normally replace the volume of the displaced diesel fuel. This process eliminates oxygen and moisture laden air when pumping fuel that would normally be displaced by atmospheric air through the vent. The propane can "push" its way into the fuel if the pressure is higher than a few ounces as controlled by a standard low pressure regulator. If the tank is sealed, atmospheric pressure changes will not cause significant issues with the natural expansion of the stored fuel.

I have stored fuel for more than 10 years and the fuel has performed as it was when originally charged in the tank. I have also used this method to preserve gasoline with the same results using steel tanks. It is important to draft the fuel an inch or more off of the bottom of the tank to keep any sediment or other contaminates that may have settled out of the fuel over long term storage. If there is a bottom tap in the tank, it is a good idea to drain a half gallon or so every year to observe the fuel condition. I'm not a chemist, but just applying some common sense to a problem that costs very little to manage.

Hope this is helpful..
 

Bmxenbrett

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The basic principle to keeping fuel clean and moisture free is to eliminate (AS BEST AS POSSIBLE) the presence of moisture and oxygen from inside of the fuel storage tank. I store my diesel fuel in 600 gallon aluminum surplus tanks. I fill the tanks to the fill line ( about 4"from the top) and attach a 20 pound propane tank with a regulator, to the tank. I open the propane tank only when pumping fuel from the tank, which is a substitute for the atmospheric air that would normally replace the volume of the displaced diesel fuel. This process eliminates oxygen and moisture laden air when pumping fuel that would normally be displaced by atmospheric air through the vent. The propane can "push" its way into the fuel if the pressure is higher than a few ounces as controlled by a standard low pressure regulator. If the tank is sealed, atmospheric pressure changes will not cause significant issues with the natural expansion of the stored fuel.

I have stored fuel for more than 10 years and the fuel has performed as it was when originally charged in the tank. I have also used this method to preserve gasoline with the same results using steel tanks. It is important to draft the fuel an inch or more off of the bottom of the tank to keep any sediment or other contaminates that may have settled out of the fuel over long term storage. If there is a bottom tap in the tank, it is a good idea to drain a half gallon or so every year to observe the fuel condition. I'm not a chemist, but just applying some common sense to a problem that costs very little to manage.

Hope this is helpful..
Your displacing the tank air with a flammable gas? This sounds like a very bad idea.

There have to be far better gasses to do this with that arnt explosive.
 

Coug

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Your displacing the tank air with a flammable gas? This sounds like a very bad idea.

There have to be far better gasses to do this with that arnt explosive.
As long as there is no room for oxygen, then I don't see why it's an issue. Gasoline vapors are extremely explosive, diesel vapors are flammable, so why would using propane be any more dangerous than having it vent to atmosphere? I'd argue that the lack of oxygen actually makes it much safer. Propane is also heavier than air, so even when the tank lid is opened it shouldn't be going anywhere.

I'd rather use something like nitrogen, but if the tank is sealed then any non-oxygenated gas should be fine.
 

tstone

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In response to the perceived danger of using a flammable gas to displace air from a fuel storage tank:

Propane is heavier than air and will displace the air when metered into the storage tank and vented during the purge. After purging the air from the tank, the tank is sealed and only propane gas is introduced when pumping or draining fuel. There can not be a danger of an air fuel explosive mixture in the tank without Oxygen being present.
There is more danger for the propensity of an explosion of an air fuel mixture by introducing vented air into a gasoline storage tank during normal use then in this application.

My suggestion for using Propane rather than other gases is that it is inert in the presence of other hydrocarbons and in this application it is safe and inexpensive. It can be applied in remote locations where electricity may not be available such as may be needed for a polisher.

I do not recommend this procedure to anyone who does not fully understand the safety procedures for handling propane, or other flammable gasses or liquids, this includes precautions of insuring proper grounding to eliminate static electrical charges.
 
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