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Fuse Box Power

bkwudzhom

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Thanks to Warthog, Doghead, and Clinto I have chased down the Brake light problem and fixed it.
I decided to dive into the no dash light problem and pulled the dash and make sure it was all clean and ready. With that being done I have found that It is all good but not getting power from the fuse box. Checked the fuse box and it has no power at the 5amp fuse connection for the guage cluster. as dark has set upon me I hope to have a plan of attack for the next bit of time I get to attack it. Any suggestions?
 

Warthog

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Let me explain the fuse box for the dash lights. Follow along as we connect the dots.

1. Power is supplied to the headlight fuse via the RED wire 3 RED-2G. It comes into the fuse on the left side. Diagrams E-3 and E-4.

2. Diagram E-18 shows that there is a metal connection on the right hand side on the headlight fuse. It feeds the STop light fuse on the right side.

3. The orange wire 3 ORN-914 goes to the center connection on the Blackout Service Switch. Diagram E-18

4. When the Service switch is on, it feeds the headlight switch via wire 3 ORN/BLK-912A. Diagram E-13

5. Wire 3 ORN/BLK-912A connects to the headlight switch at pin #1. Diagram E-14.

6. When the headlight switch is pulled out it supplies power to pin #4 and pin #3

7. By rotating the knob the reostat supplies power to pin#2 in various voltages

8. Connected to pin #2 is wire 1 DK GRN-44. This wire supplies power to the dash light fuse. Diagram E-14

9. Tracing wire 1 DK GRN-44 it feeds the Dash fuse on the right hand side. Diagram E-13

10. Coming out the left side of the fuse is wire .5 GRA-8A. Diagram E-13

11. This wire feeds the Voltmeter light, Heater light and the dash lights. I will let you figure those circuits out.

So with all that:

Check the headlight fuse, check the connection at the headlight switch, rotate the knob to see if it will clean itself,
replace the switch if neccesary.
 
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bkwudzhom

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I greatly appreciate your detailed response. I tried to PM you last night but the site wouldn't let me last night. I have already replaced the headlight switch so I will chase these wires right now. It's easier to do with the dash out! Following your directions on the schematic with a color pencil has helped me learn it a bit. I sure do appreciate it.
Jody
 

bkwudzhom

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Location
ga
Ok. Had the chance yesterday afternoon and traced the path you suggested. I am getting power through the switches and to the fuse box...However, instead of getting power at a simple touch of the test light I have to really push it in there and when I do I get it on both sides. This leads me to beleive that there is a bad connection in the fuse box. I plan on trying to find one in the junkyard and rebuilding it to save some time and still be able to drive in the mean time. I swear I'm gonna fix this thing and get it done right. I think I'm gonna name the truck "Johnny Cash" and just fix him one piece at a time.
 
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Warthog

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Have you ever cleaned the fuse box? It may help your problem.

Make a map of all the fuses, remove them one at a time (or at the same time) and use some Electrical Contact Cleaner and some sandpaper and clean all the contacts.

Since the box is hot at all times, disconnect the battteries first.

Another member posted this the other day and I think it is a great idea.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/67684-contact-cleaning-tip.html
 

bkwudzhom

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Yes I have cleaned the contacts in the entire box. I get power with just a touch of the test light on all of the other connections. With the dash power connection I have to really push the test light in there to get it to light up. Thats what makes me think it is a bad connection of some type.
 
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bkwudzhom

Member
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Location
ga
Ok. Been playing with this and got some additional help from Warthog on the chat Thanks Again!!). I finally have dash lights!! I took the dash plug and founs that bending the #9 ground connection out made a better contact. It only lit up ine dash light and I took the time to play with the other 2 and had to tighten the connection that the bulbs sit in for them to light up. One of the sockets was brand new and I still had to tighten them up. Any way--one problem down--next is to look into the rest of the instruments don't light up!! Gen 2 comes on as it should when the key is turned but the rest dont. Tomorrow will be fun.
 
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