gen 2 light and volt meter not working

[fallen]

Has anyone had this problem before. My gen 2 light will not come on and the volt meter is not getting any voltage. I remember hearing something about a similar problem that was caused by a relay. Both alternators are charging. 1986 m1009

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

I have the same problem. I just tore into the dash today to do some testing. See if I can find a problem.

 

[ryan77]

Check the relay next to starter relay under dash by ise diagnostic port!!!

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

Sounds like a good opportunity to get my doghead relay mod taken care of.

 

[idM1028]

Check the relay next to starter relay under dash by ise diagnostic port!!!

There's actually two. One is the GEN2 relay, the other is the voltmeter relay. I can't remember the exact part #, but doesn't seem like they're hard to find. Those two are the same part number-wise. Jumpering the GEN2 relay (check the wiring diagram for the hot/ground wires) can tell you whether the problem is the light bulb, a ground or something else. If you get the light to come on, it's getting power, the bulb is good, and the ground is good. There's also a couple of resistors on the back of the voltmeter that have been known to go bad and screw stuff up. Get a voltmeter and test them. The resistance should be 300 ohms IIRC. I'd also check the troubleshooting section of the TM.

 

[ryan77]

Check all your fuses to! Check the blower motor fuse!! It would be odd that both relays went bad, Those voltage gauges go bad always!!!

 

[combatmech]

There is a 300 ohm resistor that is easy to change. Gen issues are pretty common around here. Here is a search result that might help
Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite - Search Results

 

[fallen]

Finaaly got time to look at it this afternoon. I located a 10 AMP fuse blown. It was located at the botton of the fuse block. Now the Gen 2 light works and I have power at the volt meter. I still need a voltmeter. Thanks for all of the help.

 

[mistaken1]

Yes that is the one lone 24V fuse that you replaced.

These were posted by others and I just save and regurgitate them.

 

[corelokt]

Send me a pm, I have a gauge. Yours for the taking.

 

[combatmech]

Or you can get two 150 ohm resistors and install them on the back of your voltmeter where the existing 300 ohm resistor is .... I've fixed two that way.

 

[camp9]

Thanks for the post and answers. I have a 1009 that the kids were taking to the lock in at church last night. I was getting the dash lights replaced and the voltmeter touched the metal on the dash before I got the wires disconnected and seen a little spark. When I got everything back together the voltmeter wasn't working. The kids just got back so now I'll go check that fuse. Thanks for the helpful post, it gives me a direction.

 

[fallen]

Can you advise more on the volt meter fix. I dont know where the resistors are located. The only thing i see on the bacl of the volt meter is the two terminals thanks

 

[lindyp38]

i replaced the relays on mine..but that didnt cure my problem........ill recheck the fuses as was suggested here......

 

[combatmech]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/18236-voltmeter-not-working-all-never-moves.html Post #6.
Here is how I have fixed two voltmeters in the past. The long white and pink rectangle is the stock 300 ohm resistor.

Radioshack 150 ohm resistors 5 pack 1.25
You can solder them together or just wrap the wire around each of the posts.

 

[fallen]

The volt meter I have only has the two posts in the back. I dont remember seeing the other posts that go to the resistor. I will double check but I think I may be out of luck.

 

[harryhr]

I've got the same voltmeter problem with a different twist to it. Everything was running great under the hold and on the dash all the gauges were working as should be. I replaced the belts on the engine a couple months ago and recently the belt on alternator #1 (right hand side near batteries) started to squeal when first starting engine. I checked alternator by pushing down on the fins with my index finger and the pulley moved. So I tightened the tension to match the other alternator belt. I started the engine and no more squeal but noticed voltage meter was inoperative (meter arm all the way down to the left side). When I tightened the belt I made sure the small breaker bar I used did not come in contact with any wiring. Is this just a coincidence? I've already checked the fuse and it looked good but replaced with a new fuse to no avail. Still inop.

 

[Warthog]

The passenger side alternator is GEN2. GEN1 is the driver side. Are you saying you turned the fan or moved the alternator?

Check the fusible links at the diamond shaped 12v terminal block next to the glowplug relay. I bet you will find one that is burnt.

 

[phil2968]

Um, I have to tap my meter if I want it to work. Verify charging with a DVM on the batteries.