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head studs

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
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Memphis, White Owl, Eastern Surplus. If they don't have any, PM me, I have a parts engine.
 

Prankster

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Ponca City, Oklahoma
Buying the Best

ARP Racing sells the best!
If they don't have what you want already listed, you can mail them one, and they will make it up just for you.

ARP-bolts.com | The Official Site of Automotive Racing Products, Inc.

The reason I like ARP is because the studs, and bolts they sell are a lot stronger than most of those in any market.

Example 100,000 Lbs to 300,000 Lbs.

I would use a broken bolt extractor.
Drop a smaller nut down the hole, and use it as a guide to keep your drill bit on center.

This will help keep on target.
The other stud, will need to be center punched.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to make your first pilot hole, and then drill it again to the size that fits your extractor.

I wouldn't unbolt things unless all else fails.
 
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Jake0147

Member
782
18
18
Location
Panton, VT
ARP Racing sells the best!
If they don't have what you want already listed, you can mail them one, and they will make it up just for you.

ARP-bolts.com | The Official Site of Automotive Racing Products, Inc.

The reason I like ARP is because the studs, and bolts they sell are a lot stronger than most of those in any market.

Example 100,000 Lbs to 300,000 Lbs.

I would use a broken bolt extractor.
Drop a smaller nut down the hole, and use it as a guide to keep your drill bit on center.

This will help keep on target.
The other stud, will need to be center punched.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to make your first pilot hole, and then drill it again to the size that fits your extractor.

I wouldn't unbolt things unless all else fails.

I would agree completely except for one point here. I would NEVER EVER mix/match a set of bolts. The expansion/contraction is going to be different, torque specs are going to be different, ultimate clamp load is going to be different. If you're going to replace them all, ARP can knock out a set if they don't have them. (Wouldn't surprise me that they might not have these as a standard item...). If you're going to take out the damaged ones and simply replace those, I would specifically seek out like kind and quality. They're not a high failure item, although an angry engine builder with a big wrench certainly can wreck them easy enough. I would also take a peek under the valve covers for any additional ones that may or may not be just right under there.
 

misupratwin

Member
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Location
Battle Creek , Michigan
Thank you all for your quick replies , I will give the surplus stores a shot ,or i would be willing to buy a couple from a individual .As far as removing the broken ones , I usually weld a nut to the top of the broken stud and then remove,If that don't work i have extractors of several designs to try (I fix cars and truck for a living,I have more invested in tools then my houses) I am not really looking to buy a complete set, and i don't think i need arp studs(i run them in my turbo car,but i run 25 lbs of boost pressure ) I was just looking to repair whats broke and drive till it need gaskets. Thank you , Tim
 

Ridgerunner

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Location
Holland, Mi
How are you going to get the old broken studs out, seeings how their snapped way below the surface?

p.s. I do have an extra multi fuel in the barn that we could pull a couple studs out of if you need them.
 

misupratwin

Member
143
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Location
Battle Creek , Michigan
The stud in the second pic is broke almost flush with the head , So i will weld a nut to the stud and hopfully it will back right out, The stud in the thrid pic is down 1/2 to 1 inch into the head, This one i will drill and try a set of straight splined extractors.I have a set of snap-on extractors that has drill guides,drill bits and the extractors. Looks like this

Or i could tap the stud with a left handed thread, then use a grade 9 bolt to thread it out
 

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