M1028 lift and swap with towing in mind

[Fuelnblood]

Im currently assembling my truck from being painted. It's a 86 m1028a Iv swapped out the front clip for a 78 front clip and also have a swap drivetrain for it 6.5td/4l80e/np205. I plan to lift the truck 4in but still want to tow with the truck. I'm looking at 4in tuff country ez hd springs up front with ORD crossover steering and ORD frame brace as for the rear I was thinking the ORD shackle flip kit 4in. Has anyone used these products for a tow vehicle?

 

[richingalveston]

I think you are good with everything, I have all of these parts on my 1009. It is not a tow vehicle but the parts are stronger than stock. Then only thing you might consider is new springs instead of the shackle flip in the rear just depends on what kind of tonge weights you are trying to achieve.
The shackle flip is stronger than the stock spring mounts on my 1009 for sure. not sure what the spring mounts are like on the 1028

the steering is much better than stock for sure.
good luck with it.

 

[Fuelnblood]

Thanks rich as far as keeping the towing aspect. The truck will be pulling car trailer with a Subaru on it mostly and possibly a deck over with another truck on it occationaly. The truck will not see off road much except maybe pulling people out of mud holes or rally cars out of ditches. The truck has 4.56 final gears so I plan on running 34-35in tires to get a lil more highway speeds. The reason I was leaning twords the shackle flip was for 2 reasons. 1- Iv read that the flip kit is better with pinoin angle.2- the flip kit is 200 and rear springs are 220 each.

 

[Blendmaster2002]

Fueln, keep the direction of your build the truck it will be stable, Keep your rear springs the lift company springs out there are not set up for 1 ton GVW only same ones as there 1/2 and 3/4 ton kits otherwise you would need custom springs. The front tuff country easy ride HD are a good choice for this they should ride nice. On the steering of course it’s Best to go with the crossover steering, but with only a 4” lift and you’re not planning hardcore off road, if your budget is tight just guessing from your last post you could just run a drop pitman arm on the street and light off road with a steering box frame brace of course, and use the money elsewhere on the build until later. I don’t know if you thought about it but you will still need longer brake lines, the stock ones will work temporarily but remember not to flex the truck to much LOL, if you have a sway bar you will need to drop it down with brackets or get the disconnect kit to hook it back up and of course longer shocks.
Here’s a thread that you may want to read it covers a lot of what you’re asking: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...lift-springs-are-you-running&referrerid=19939 .

 

[Fuelnblood]

Thanks blendmaster
I know I will need shocks and ex brake lines all around. I was more leaning twords the crossover as instead of spending the cash and time for the drop pitman and steering block set up to just spend the 400 and never worry about it again. That and i have a 2wd steering box just sitting from my old truck. The truck build is on a budget but sometimes ya just look past that. So far I only have $2200 into the truck (parts and buying the truck) I also will be doing front and rear disconnects on the sway bars as I have them front and rear.

 

[Blendmaster2002]

Sounds like your all set! Post some pics as your truck comes together. Oh on a 4 inch you don’t need both drop pitman arm and steering block only for 6” or 8” and above I don’t think I would use both either.

 

[Fuelnblood]

The only drop pitman Iv found is a 3" drop from ORD. I thought the arm going from pitman to axle needed to be level ? Am I wrong? Wouldn't I need a 4" drop ? If I can get away with a pit drop for a lil while maybe ill do that and see how it is. Still need to assemble the truck and install the motor and trans and my manual shift kit for the 4l80e. One reason I want to lift it is because I have a 93 6bt sitting in my garage to go in it later down the road( don't have the cash now for addaptor and mounts) and I have a 93 6.5td I can bolt right in now so I'm just doing the 6.5 for now. I just want clearance for all the exhaust. I think ill also be installing a 1" body lift.

 

[Blendmaster2002]

Yeah I am running the Skyjacker one which is the one they sell at ORD. Skyjacker Pitman Arm CA50 Steel, Chevy, GMC, SUV/Pickup, with Power Steering, 2.5 to 4 in. Lift, 2in drop. I went out and looked at my v-3500 4” lift Big Block and my draglink is at a light angle, eye balling it I would guess it’s about an 1”-2” difference it’s hard to tell without getting a level with the tire in the way. I do need to adjust my drag link on my v-3500 as the steering wheel isn’t level and it doesn’t go to the steering stop in one direction but it was out of adjustment when I got the truck before the lift its just worse now, I would have done it already but I don’t drive the truck much as it needs tires and I have too many projects that need time $$, anyway I compared it to a couple other trucks here the stock k-30 with big block is pretty much flat and the v-2500 suburban has a slight angle with a small block. It’s best to be as close to level as possible but mine steers like stock other than the above mentioned needed adjustment. Here’s a pic:

 

[Fuelnblood]

Thanks blendmaster. Since its ok to have a slight angle ill just got with the drop pitman then and crossover can be down the road. Iv been readin up on zero rates after reading that thread have me yesterday and I'm debating on these but I think ill put tires on the truck and see what I have for clearance and figure it out then. Although I guess I'd have to go crossover with them. God it's been to long since my high school lifted truck days hahaha.

 

[Blendmaster2002]

Hmm, my , you shouldn’t need zero rates up front to relocate the axle with 35” tires and down, for non-hardcore light off road wheeling, maybe up front just to level with your rear, also it will basically add another inch to your lift and add more angle to your draglink. The rear with shackle flip yes it would be better to run them in the rear to relocate the rear axle back close to stock (rear axle moves forward with the shackle flip), you would not need zero rates with lift leafs or rear blocks. Hers a link to a magazine article for a burb with 4” lift and 35” tires : http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0712or_1987_k2500_4wd_chevrolet_surburban/ . You can search the online it’s a common combo 4" with 35" tires, 6” and 35” tires seems more common But I personally like 4” and 35” looks great and a little easier to use bed height. I would run 35” but with the dually I am planning 6 255/85r16 Bfg km2 33” skinny’s, I still will need spacers between the rear tires at this size, these trucks can handle a 285/75r16 32.8” tire stock that’s what my parents stock 89 v2500 suburban sits on with Alcoa wheels never rubbed and it’s been lightly wheeled a few times.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Using zero rates to move the front axle forward would almost require crossover steering.


BTW, if you need a steering box brace, I have an extra laying around.

 

[Fuelnblood]

I'm still undecided. I really only want 4" to keep it low for towing. After reading that the flip kit needs zero rates to center it I'm looking more into 4" rear springs and adding air bag load helpers. I'm deff doing a steering box brace.

 

[Fuelnblood]

I may be getting a nv4500 out if a 94 gas 1ton. If this happens I think ill be just lifting the front slightly 2"-3" and a 1" body lift. Should clear 35s and the nv would help greatly help out the 4.54 rears.