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MEP-003A Fuel Strainer

GREENMV

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I am working on my MEP-003A changing fuel filters and cleaning fuel strainer. I pulled the fuel strainer and it did not look right. I checked the TM and it shows the nut on top of the strainer an the retainer on the bottom of the strainer. My strainer had the nut and retainer on the bottom. Question does anyone have a Pic of the strainer without the cover installed so I can see the proper location for the strainer on the rod. top? bottom? Middle? Garbage Can? aua
 

storeman

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There is a brass knurled nut with a flared flange the same size as the discs, which presses the filter discs to the top of the threaded shaft in the upper housing. Filter can is then mounted with a nut and small gasket and tightened against the upper housing's rubber gasket to make it leak tight.
Jerry
 

GREENMV

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IMG.jpgOn Mine, the#8 nut Is below #6 Retainer (I dont know why). 1st Question? Is #8 nut used to lock #3 Rod into #10 head. 2nd Question? how tight is the strainer supposed to be. I would assume somewhat loose to allow fuel to squeeze through.
 

storeman

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Location
Mathews County, VA
View attachment 429720On Mine, the#8 nut Is below #6 Retainer (I dont know why). 1st Question? Is #8 nut used to lock #3 Rod into #10 head. YES
2nd Question? how tight is the strainer supposed to be. I would assume somewhat loose to allow fuel to squeeze through.[/QUOTE The fact that the brass nut below the discs is set up for fingers, not a wrench, should tell you to turn it as for as you can with your fingers. Discs need to be tight to keep water out.
 

two.fiveM35

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Location
Victoria , Texas
I'm cleaning the strainer on my "new to me" Mep 003 and have encountered the same issue. My unit only has 6 hours on it. The picture in the TM has the nut on top of the strainer, but my unit has it under the cup. I guess this may have been a design change?
If I reinstall the nut under the cup, I assume I snug it up to the bottom of the cup to prevent the cup from backing off the strainer?
Or should I install it as pictured and snug the nut up against the assembly to keep the bold from backing out?
 
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Guyfang

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Storeman has it perfectly right. Install it like the TM diagram, and only hand tight for the brass nut.

Smear silicone grease on the rubber gasket, (item 9) and reinstall it carefully. Run your finger all the way around it in the filter head before installing the filter body. I always run the retaining nut, (item 1) almost hand tight, then turn the filter body once or twice all the way around to get the gasket to seal right. I have many unforgetable remembrances of NOT getting this gasket in right, and creating a fuel spill on par with the Exxon Valdez tanker spill.
 

jamawieb

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Location
Ripley/TN
I've had several units with the nut under the brass flange nut. I think they did that to make sure the brass flange nut doesn't unscrew.
 

Guyfang

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I inspected more generators then I can remember coming out of Tier 2 rebuild. Only a handful had less then 10 faults. Most of the people performing the rebuild work were something less then "skilled Craftsmen". Often, they did not have the right TM's, or in two cases, were asking me to help them find the right TM's. In one case, the shop lead asked me why the generator parts manuals did not have any engine parts. Often, old parts were reinstalled due to a lack of new repair parts, or the contract was coming to an end. Not all were this bad, and some were very good. But the tier 2 was supposed to return a generator to "Like New" condition. It simply did not work that way. Sad, our tax dollars at work.
 
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