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Mav’s M1088A1 Conversion
- Thread starter Mavcaster
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Try this...
Ok thanks, I replied there. I remember it being in a sig of a user but Im actually picking up the truck today (or trying to) and signatures don’t appear on my phone apparently.
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I lifted the links from @Awesomeness (in his tagline)
LMTV/FMTV Quck Parts Reference Spreadsheet #2 (w/ CAT 3116)
LMTV/FMTV Common Issues & Fixes
Hopefully this helps...
Both links are functional too.
Well I worked on it just about all day to get it running without dying, bled the fuel system several times and drained a bunch of water out of the filter, replaced a u-joint that had been removed, caged and dislodged two frozen brakes and got out of there about 15 min before the yard closed. Drove it non-stop 200 miles back to my house without so much as a hiccup! Now to go through filters and fluids and start making the list. Still need to sort out the check engine light.
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I know you don't want to, but now might be a good time to look at the fuel filter again. Maybe you "caught all the crap" that was sloshing around in the tank. Glad to hear she made it home without a hiccup! Nice looking vehicle...
Alright well I’ve had a little time to look a lot of things over and found a few of the normal issues but overall, I think I got a pretty solid truck. Truck has no problem building air pressure and CTIS is working as it should (read somewhere a transducer could be changed to adjust pressure setting). I changed the fuel/water separator and fuel filter (which had some pretty nasty fuel in it even after the tank I used getting it home). I plan to fill the tank once more and add a bottle of injector cleaner then change fuel filters again in case some gunk is freed up. Engine sounds like it has a pretty good exhaust leak which is evident from the soot on the side of the block.
Here is a list of things I noticed in case someone reads this in the future or in case anyone has any advice they’d like to pass along to me.
Here is a list of things I noticed in case someone reads this in the future or in case anyone has any advice they’d like to pass along to me.
- CEL is on
- small leak in roof most likely from turret cover seal
- broken ground on alternator
- driver side hydro cylinder bypassed (I assume these are just used for compressing suspension for air travel)
- cab lock will not engage (engaged when I first got it but now red plunger will not retract)
- small hydraulic reservoir leak
- cab bushings falling apart after the voyage home
- passenger side intermediate brake shoe broken
- fan disable switch inop
- exhaust leak at manifold
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Ronmar
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When you have the ECU scanned to identify that CEL fault, see if they can also copy the engine personality files. The ECUs they used in these 3126s have been known to have their internal keep alive battery fail. When this happens the ECU is bricked and must be replaced. You will want a copy of the engine files to reprogram a replacement ECU for the engine…
Third From Texas
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- small leak in roof most likely from turret cover seal
- driver side hydro cylinder bypassed (I assume these are just used for compressing suspension for air travel)
- cab lock will not engage (engaged when I first got it but now red plunger will not retract)
- small hydraulic reservoir leak
- cab bushings falling apart after the voyage home
!CLOSED! Cab Mount Group Buy. NEW OEM FMTV LMTV M1078, M1079, etc
Group Buy Is Now CLOSED. All 50 sets are spoken for. Thanks to everyone! I am having 100 each of the thicker and 100 each of the thinner cab mounts manufactured for a group buy. Anyone that wants in please post here. Right now pricing is $30 for the thicker mounts, and $24 for the thinner...
www.steelsoldiers.com
Also check your swaybar bushings:
Greaseable polyurethane sway bar bushings
Just weeks after getting my M1078, the sway bar bushings fell apart, and were soon completely gone. I decided to make some heavy duty polyurethane replacements, and make them [optionally] greaseable. Here's the CAD model so far... I 3D printed a prototype, to test fit, and everything looks...
www.steelsoldiers.com
Well troubleshooting continues…
I went to drive the truck to the gas station a few miles up the road (CEL still on) and it was obviously in a derated limp mode, could barely get out of its own way but would get somewhat up to speed and shifted normally. Pulled up to the pump and it died idling. I filled up and then had a hard time getting her started so lifted the cab a little and pumped the priming bulb which was soft and never firmed up. Thought I might be dead in the water but a couple more cranks and she fired up with the CEL not illuminated. Light stayed off the entire way home and it ran as it should, normal power from what I could tell. Got home and let it sit for a couple hours then had trouble again getting it to run. Starts pretty good but dies frequently, pumped on the bulb again and it began to firm up but wasn’t solid. A few more starts and she was running fine but CEL was back on. I moved the truck to the backyard and it stayed running until I shut it down.
Being that the bulb isn’t getting very firm, especially after driving it to the gas station, I’m leaning towards a very small air leak. I guess I need to put a gauge on the system and see what it gets to until I can get the code read at least.
On a side not and maybe unrelated, I pulled the WTEC codes for S&Gs and I got one…d1 1323 which referring to the manual states ECU voltage high and while monitoring voltage on the gauge during high idle, the needle did jump once to max 32v.
I went to drive the truck to the gas station a few miles up the road (CEL still on) and it was obviously in a derated limp mode, could barely get out of its own way but would get somewhat up to speed and shifted normally. Pulled up to the pump and it died idling. I filled up and then had a hard time getting her started so lifted the cab a little and pumped the priming bulb which was soft and never firmed up. Thought I might be dead in the water but a couple more cranks and she fired up with the CEL not illuminated. Light stayed off the entire way home and it ran as it should, normal power from what I could tell. Got home and let it sit for a couple hours then had trouble again getting it to run. Starts pretty good but dies frequently, pumped on the bulb again and it began to firm up but wasn’t solid. A few more starts and she was running fine but CEL was back on. I moved the truck to the backyard and it stayed running until I shut it down.
Being that the bulb isn’t getting very firm, especially after driving it to the gas station, I’m leaning towards a very small air leak. I guess I need to put a gauge on the system and see what it gets to until I can get the code read at least.
On a side not and maybe unrelated, I pulled the WTEC codes for S&Gs and I got one…d1 1323 which referring to the manual states ECU voltage high and while monitoring voltage on the gauge during high idle, the needle did jump once to max 32v.
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- Strafford, NH
Could be an air leak, but it takes next to nothing under that little check valve flapper in the pump to make it not work right. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the bowl, if it doesn’t drain but you can hear the file being sucked back down to the fuel tank this is your issue. If it’s working properly you should be able to open the drain valve and use the primer bulb to pump the water/fuel out of the catch bowl.
Third From Texas
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For the cab latch leak:
Might try and contact Scott DeWitt. He moved and sold most of his LMTV stuff, but he still lists the cab latch seal kit for sale. But again, get ahold of him to confirm. His old shop used to be here but he moved to NM. I thought he was getting out of the business, but he still lists some things for sale:
Might try and contact Scott DeWitt. He moved and sold most of his LMTV stuff, but he still lists the cab latch seal kit for sale. But again, get ahold of him to confirm. His old shop used to be here but he moved to NM. I thought he was getting out of the business, but he still lists some things for sale:
So I know the drain valve was operational at least when I was working on it at the auction yard. That was essentially how I got it to start running consistently as I started to pump and at first frothy fuel was flowing out of the drain hose which then transitioned to normal fuel. Before I did that, it was doing the same things as it is now though, running for a few seconds then stuttering to a stop or just randomly surging then dying after running for a few minutes. I have since replaced both filters but have not tried the drain valve again. I was obviously able to prime the system again after the filter change so that’s why I think if anything related, it’s a very small leak between filter housing and tank.
Thank you for that lead. I just sent him a message on the site.
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on the subject of checking codes, there are some fair deals on eBay right now for the serial ICE kit. If you get one with the DPA3 in it you can read engine codes with CAT ET and reprogram the CTIS with the Dana software. Should be able to talk to the ABS unit and trans with the right software. I just picked up one of these for my M1078A1.
Military Adapter Kit, ICE Test Dearborn Protocol, DPA3+, Probe Set NOS 13608012 | eBay
Kit contains Dearborn Protocol Adapter 3+ (DPA3+) for interfacing with OBDII port on LMTV/MTV A1 model trucks 2001-2005. 6625-01-516-6825 NOS Adapter Kit; Test ICE IFTE U.S. Army Aviation 13608012 18876-13608012 103926-1, 13608010-2 13580831, 13580836,13580844,1358045,13608011,12258786, 12258784.
www.ebay.com
Thanks for the tip, I’d like to check with vehicle maintenance on base first though. I’m active duty so hoping they’ll be willing to hook me up with a scan.on the subject of checking codes, there are some fair deals on eBay right now for the serial ICE kit. If you get one with the DPA3 in it you can read engine codes with CAT ET and reprogram the CTIS with the Dana software. Should be able to talk to the ABS unit and trans with the right software. I just picked up one of these for my M1078A1.
Military Adapter Kit, ICE Test Dearborn Protocol, DPA3+, Probe Set NOS 13608012 | eBay
Kit contains Dearborn Protocol Adapter 3+ (DPA3+) for interfacing with OBDII port on LMTV/MTV A1 model trucks 2001-2005. 6625-01-516-6825 NOS Adapter Kit; Test ICE IFTE U.S. Army Aviation 13608012 18876-13608012 103926-1, 13608010-2 13580831, 13580836,13580844,1358045,13608011,12258786, 12258784.www.ebay.com
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oh active duty? You should have access to the good stuff!! The military version of Cat ET doesn’t even check in with Caterpillar!
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Motorpool can hook you up. Buy the Motor Sargent ANYTHING he wants - beer, food, strippers - ANYTHING. That guy can do you solid with TM's, diagrams, troubleshooting, parts from junk that's being turned in for DRMO, etc. You talk to the right people and rub them all the right ways and the heavens can smile upon you.
We’ll see what capabilities they have (I’m Air Force not Army). Flightline vehicle maintenance has some big machines though and I work in a hangar right across the street. May have to strike a deal or two but I’m pretty good at sweet talkin’.
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Doh! Chair Force doesn't have these trucks. But they should have a J1939 interface to talk to some systems.
Make friends on the local Army base side of things. Trust me - you want to find a fellow veteran on the Army side. A Motor Sargent for a good sized unit with a lot of trucks can be your new best friend. And they know these trucks well.