• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

New M54A2 owner

RenegadeActual

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27
39
13
Location
Az
20230422_183328.jpg

Just picked up this M54A2 a few weeks ago. It's voyage home was cut short. Lost a waterpump 5 miles into the journey. Had one overnighted from eastern surplus, installed and 5 miles into it, discovered the headgasket was blown. So yesterday I pulled the fuel lines, and the manifolds and have it ready to pull the heads off now.

I ordered 7 gallons of Zerex Extended Life Red Heavy Duty (HD) Concentrate Antifreeze/Coolant 1 GA https://a.co/d/2oNvLzW.

And 6 gallons of Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend 10W-30 Diesel Engine Oil (1-Gallon, Case of 3) https://a.co/d/dEK5Pnm,

And the full engine gasket set with the new style headgaskets from Boyce equipment, a new thermostat from eastern surplus.

I'm debating on buying ARP head studs. Not sure if the current studs are torque to yeild or not. I bought a crowfoot 12 pt snapon socket for the nuts below the injectors.

The engine was rebuilt in GA and the heads look nearly new with the valve covers off. The turbo has absolutely 0 shaft play.

I want to repaint the truck to a woodland scheme since I will have it up in the pines most of the time, and I've grown to hate the desert having done 3 tours in the sandbox and lived the last 20 years in phoenix.

With all that said, I have a few questions I'm hoping the community can answer.

  • Are the head studs torque to yield?
  • Is there any real benefit to repainting with carc paint?
  • If so, whats the best supplier for carc paint?
  • How is it applied? Spray gun?
  • Are electric winches even worth it?
  • What tire sizes can I run if I want to keep the 10 wheel configuration but get a bit more speed out of the truck. Would like to be able to go about 55-60.
  • If I dump the 10 wheel and go super single what wheels do I need? MRAP work? How fast will that allow?
  • What are the part #'s for the oil and fuel filters that can be found at Napa, Autozone, or O'reillys?
 

MyothersanM1

19K M1 Armor Crewman
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,954
402
68
Location
Culver City, CA
CARC substitute from RAPCO. They have it in rattle can and by the gallon.
http://rapcoparts.com/manuals.html

Not much bigger than 11.00-20's, but I converted to 12R22.5 tires, Firestone T831, on 22.5 X 8.25 tubeless rims. The rears are still duals. I recently switched to 385/65R22.5's, Bridgestone L315, on 22.5 x 12.25 rims for the steers.

IMG_1855.jpg IMG_1858.jpg
 

RenegadeActual

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27
39
13
Location
Az

M813rc

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,056
2,716
113
Location
Near Austin, Texas
I second the Rapco paint, I've used it for over 20 years on my vehicles, wouldn't switch to anything else.

395s (currently used on LMTV/MTV and several other vehicles) are easily available and will fit on 5-ton wheels (from M809 or M939 series trucks) with no modifications, someone else will have to advise on HEMTT wheels. 14.00s will work too, but they are getting less common.

Nice truck, despite the issues getting it home.

Cheers
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
1,312
4,464
113
Location
Sparta, MI
You can reuse the head studs as long as none of them appear to have any cracks, coolant leaks, or bad threads. Usually it's a good idea to change the head bolts when you do a head gasket on any vehicle, but you can reuse them and be fine, many have done it myself included and did not have issues. Usually the issues stem from setting the valve sash after a hg change. If I recall, I believe the new style hg is a little thicker than the old style. An easy way to tell is that the old style has tabs on the sides of the block that allow for oil seepage. The new style does not. Plus the new style has the fire rings integrated into the gasket while the old style does not. I don't remember the specifications on the valve sash, but it is in threads on here as well as in the TM's, which the TM's will be very specific as to what the measurements are or what feeler gauge to use.
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
1,312
4,464
113
Location
Sparta, MI
Here is a link to another thread that has the quick reference spreadsheet for the M35 model trucks, obviously you're only going to use it for filters, belts, things like that. If you need references for wheel studs or parts like such, look up 5 ton quick reference spread sheet here on the site and by the same member, he made a spread sheet for the 5 tons, M54 will be towards the bottom of the sheet. For you on the M35 spreadsheet, you want to make sure you cross reference with the M35A2 parts, not the A3 or any of the gassers, your belts and filters will be different. The easiest thing to do is save the spreadsheet to your phone/computer, but I would definitely make sure there's an easily accessible list for the filters and belts available in the truck on a paper or card just in case. Everytime my belts went, it was very unexpected and caught me off guard. I carry two extra alternator/water pump belts and one air compressor belt. As long as you have that reference sheet, any auto parts store can find it, especially if you have the NAPA part number, a quick Google search can bring up all auto store parts that reference a manufacturer part too that NAPA part number.
 
Last edited:

RenegadeActual

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27
39
13
Location
Az
Thanks for all the replies. I have the intake, exhaust manifolds, rocker arms, injectors, valve covers, and all misc stuff off at the moment but I bought a 7/8" Snapon crowfoot socket but it's too thick to get on the injector side head nuts. Thinking I'll have to either destroy the socket or I'll have to buy an original tool.
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
1,312
4,464
113
Location
Sparta, MI
Thanks for all the replies. I have the intake, exhaust manifolds, rocker arms, injectors, valve covers, and all misc stuff off at the moment but I bought a 7/8" Snapon crowfoot socket but it's too thick to get on the injector side head nuts. Thinking I'll have to either destroy the socket or I'll have to buy an original tool.
I bought one of these style wrenches from Sears back when I did mine. It fits but I also had my oil filters out, all my injectors and lines were pulled, so I didn't have much of anything in the way and I just put a pipe on it for leverage. You could go this route or you can bend/cut/weld your own to work with a ratchet/torque/breaker bar.
Capri Tools 13/16 x 7/8 in. 75-Degree Deep Offset Double Box End Wrench https://a.co/d/gw5v8HF
 

msgjd

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
893
2,792
93
Location
upstate ny
What tire sizes can I run if I want to keep the 10 wheel configuration but get a bit more speed out of the truck. Would like to be able to go about 55-60.
Nice truck but sorry to hear it's a multifuel.. Your top speed will be limited compared to other engines that came in those trucks , and the taller the tires, the more HP it's gonna take to turn them and maintain speed.. Does it have the overdrive 5th? (push forward on the shifter) .. Direct 5th you pull back on shifter .. Which tranny you have is a big deal for all of us to know before anyone can accurately help you .. And even though the tag or paperwork may say "A2" , sometimes (rare) you can find a Mack under the hood.. You have a multifuel if the turbo is sitting below the manifold
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks