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OMG! HELP!!

wyliek

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i got the m1009 jacked up to install lift kit...

steering arm is STUCK on! any ideas to get it off (i tried prying and hammering it [with out damaging it])

my 4x is not working due to hubs, i took the hubs off and noticed parts missing and lots of ground up metal. it doesnt look right at all, will post pics when i figure out how
 

marksgarage2

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Are you talking about the arm on the box? If so you will need a puller. Apply pressure with the puller, then strike the round part with a hammer stopping to crank more on the puller. Some are very stubborn but will come off. Mark
 

mangus580

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Wylie, there are 3 cones seated under the nuts on the pitman arm. Best solution, is patience and a big hammer.... Hammer up, hammer down, hammer all around. you will see them start to loosen, and once the cones come out, the arm will come right off (usually)

Pics can be posted, by clicking hte attach button below (on a full reply) see the FAQ's for help

As for the hubs.... buy a new set... not worth the headache of fixing a pile of ground metal.
 

clinto

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Yeah, I thought his issue was the tie rods?

For Pitman arm, you must have pitman arm puller, grasshopper
 

Armada

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A blue tip wrench is handy too. More than likely you'll need one for the leaf spring mounting bolts.
Keep a wet rag handy to throw on the dried out grommets that are around the bolts. How much lift are you putting on?
 

mangus580

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Yeah, a torch is the ONLY way to go for the u-bolts! it also makes sure nobody will re-use them too!

He is putting a 4" in Armada
 

ken

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I had the same problem. The guys at superlift told me to strike the arm at the very end. Not up or down. If you sit on the ground with the wheels straight and looking tward the front of the truck.Hit it where the drag link attaches. The idea is to twist he arm slightly on the steering knuckel so the 3 cones will rise on the studs. These cones have a slit in them so penetrating oil will be able to get inside. The split isn't for the oil. It's so the cones can grip the studs. After 3 wacks the cones popped up. And don't forget to make sure the truck won't fall before you get under it.
 

Armada

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I can just about garauntee the mouting bolts for the springs to the frame will need to be torched too.

You probably know all this already wyliek, but with a 4" lift, to do it right, you will want to drop the transfercase cradle to help decrease the severity of the drive shaft angle. A good idea would be to rebalance the drive shafts too. They are balanced from the factory with-in spec, but you've changed that spec/severity of angle by adding the lift. You may or may not have to modify the front exhaust crossover to get full articulation of the front driveshaft, it will be close, although you should have duals on a cucv.
Brake lines will not need to be extended with a 4" lift, although you will probably have to bend the bracket up a little where it attaches to the rear axle.
Since you're trying to get the pitman arm off, I'm assuming you're putting on a drop arm. One last thing to prevent bump steer is to add sway bar drop brackets. Big difference! The key is to keep the steering geometry the same.
Oh, you'll want extended shocks too, and a heavy duty steering dampener makes a difference, especially with larger tires.
Make sure all drag links, tie rod ends, axle u-joints are tight too. A set 33x12.5's will fit beautifully!
Good luck. You're going to have a sweet looking, and safe handling truck!!

The only bad part is that you won't have a pit crew to do it for you like mangus580!! ;)
 

mangus580

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Hey now.... my pit crew had NO part in my lift project!

My spring bolts came out btw... my Ubolts even came un done!!

I do notice some driveshaft vibrations at certain speeds.... i didnt drop the t-case as of yet. still deciding on that.
 

Armada

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You'll probably need to drop it in order to eliminate the drivetrain vibrations. I guess I would try the driveshaft balancing first, it will help, although the transfer drop is an easy one.
You will have to adust your shift indicator too.
That's the thing with the blazers compared to the pick ups, the shorter wheelbase is more sensitive to lifting.
 

Armada

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The slip yoke on the driveshafts will adjust them to the right length.
To drop the transfercase, a spacer is put between the cradle and the frame at the four mounting points.
The transfercase itself does not need to be touched. IIRC, the spacers are only about 1"-1.5" long. You'll need to increase the bolt length that much as well. The transfercase shifter will drop a bit but it won't be noticable. The angle of the engine will slightly change, but will not affect anything. The only adjustment will be to the shift indicator needle.
 

mangus580

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remember, on the 1009 the slip yoke is on the back of the tcase... its not built into the drive shaft. There is some concern that there is enough slip room. But if the tcase is lowered an inch, it will probably be fine
 
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