Proper working 4-way ignition switch, doable or stupid?

[TehTDK]

Hey fellow steel soldiers,


I know this subject has been asked and discussed a number of times but I haven't been able to find any single thread that actually dealt with keyed ignition starting in the manner that I would be looking to achieve.... if possible.


When I land myself an M35 I plan on purchasing a proper ignition (4 position )switch etc from a parts dealer. I will try to outline what I have in mind below and then you can tell me if its even remotely feasible or not.


0 - All off, Engine shutdown etc. Plan to disable the engine kill switch handle with a electronic solenoid in the engine compartment to shut the engine down that way.
1 - ACC, means all the electronics comes on that I have selected to be on; Ie lights, etc. I would also expect the air buzzer to come at that point
2 - Running, The setting the ignition would be in when the engine is started on and running.
3 - Cranking, ie the moment where the starter would be activated and kept activated until I let go of the key ie when the engine starts.


I figure Setting 0 would be possible if I somehow wire the actual master switch to that "point" on the terminals. Ie so that if master switch is turned off, then obviously nothing will come on. But with a working Setting 0, I could leave the master power switch on at all times, because the ignition "disables" the flow as well. Ie so you need to have master switch on, ASWELL as the key turned to setting 1 before any electrics/electronics actually powers on.


Im debating just entirely disabling the functioning of the master switch, but retaining the 3 switches for the engine heater etc.


The moment the key is turned to Position 1, then the Engine shutdown solenoid would retract and allow me to start the engine without issue, as well as power on the various electronics as flipping the master switch would normally do.


Position 2, I figure is more or less the same as position 1 as I don't think a particular running switch would have any impact on the running of the engine as such


Position 3, which is the spring-loaded one would engage the starter motor and hopefully crank the engine and allow the engine to start at which point I would simply let go of the key which would then default to position 2.


But is this plan and outline far fetched and simply shooting over the target, or is this a doable and somewhat sensible plan?.


I obviously also plan on installing locking doorhandles etc in it. I am however debating the battery kill switch since I would think that "might" be a bit overkill in my present setup, but that is still up for debate.

But would this work at all?

 

[welldigger]

Your system is doable. Just look up the wiring schematic in the stickies. The one thing I would change is leave the manual kill cable. If you removed it and replaced it with a solenoid and it failed you would either have a dead truck or a running truck with no good way to kill it. If it were me I would replace the master power switch with a barrel keyed on/off switch. But if you did manage a 4 way switch it would be neat.

 

[wb9btz]

If you have an M35A3 or M109A4 you can wire a barrel key switch in series with the neutral safety switch in the shifter pedestal. This way, turning on the master switch will only give you the accessories... you will be unable to crank the engine over without the key (try cranking the engine with the transmission in any position except neutral to see what I mean ...BEING CERTAIN THE PARKNG BRAKE IS SET AND THE THROTTLE AT IDLE, OF COURSE!). If the engine is already running, just use the kill switch to stop it if desired. If you have an older M35 or M109, you might look at the A3/A4 wiring diagram to see how Uncle Sam implemented the neutral safety switch into the starter circuit.

Actually, the more I think about it, if you got the "right" key switch, you can do what you want to on an M35A3 or M109A4 by using the existing wires from the Master Switch, the Start Switch and the Engine Kill Switch.

Finding the "right" key switch means finding one that has the right combination of electrical contacts in each of the 4 positions to make it work.

Wow... now I'm thinking I should start searching for the "right" key switch . I like the idea and will see if I can make it happen on my A3 . I'll post here when & if I succeed.

 

[Recovry4x4]

There is a member that put a GM Tilt column in his deuce. The factory switch functions just as it would on any GM vehicle but it's on a deuce. Follow "Diablo Build" thread

 

[TehTDK]

There is a member that put a GM Tilt column in his deuce. The factory switch functions just as it would on any GM vehicle but it's on a deuce. Follow "Diablo Build" thread

I will search for it and subscribe to it, because that angle sounds interesting

wb9btz:

Ideally I would be going for a 35A2 since I would like to get an multifuel engine, as well as appreciating the aesthetics of the dual boogies, over super singles. I did consider the camber/shelter idea but sorta takes away some of the flexibility of the truck in general. So if I should consider that avenue at a later time it would most likely be something I can add/remove from the bed as needs be etc. At present my shopping list is for a A2, With Winch and dropsides. Hopefully with troop seats and the cover bows etc.

Simply because I don't really want to lock down the truck for 1 specific purpose, but would rather prefer that I would be able to set it up from time to time, as i need it.