Recent developments with the 1009.

[rsh4364]

Everything worked well at morning starting, then when I went to start after work
No GP light, no GP activation with manual push button no fuel gauge and no cold start advance activation, when I got it to start it was at low idle and injector timing not advanced. Any ideas? I'm working 2 hrs from home and don't have much time for extensive testing.

 

[cucvrus]

Not sure if i can diagnose with all the bypass of the glow plug system. But the fast idle sensor is at the rear of the right passengers side head below the heater hoses. Check it out. And get that thing back to normal so it is not guess work every time something happens. It is really hard to help when everyone has their own design to the glow plugs. I know shut up Rick.This is my 1984 M1009 Mule under the hood. I found after working on hundreds of these CUCV's it was easier to fix the unmolested ones then it was to decipher the molested ones. Everyone had a different idea. It is just more cost effective to repair the original design then it is to start changing it. Very dependable and reliable. Even a Caveman can drive it. Some just like it. Even with 99 K on the odometer and 32 years under its belt it starts and goes in all weather. Like a Rock.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks Rick, my sensor is on drivers side.rear of head.I will be doing some testing tomorrow,

 

[cucvrus]

I always thought. Correct me if I'm wrong. that was the glow plug sensor. The sensor that controls the fast idle solenoid is on the bottom rear of the passengers side head. I never had any problems with them either so how would I be sure? But I always hear people saying the switch/sensor is over a hundred dollars US. Come on someone else bail me out here. So technically you can block off that useless sensor on the drivers side and let them wires dangle in the breeze if you have a push button glow plug system. Snip snip and tape up the wire ends. No need for that wasted plug.

 

[rsh4364]

Well I over complicated this problem! This am replaced #17 20 amp fuse.Now all works again.fuel gauge,GP solenoid, cold start solenoid and wait light

 

[cucvrus]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YmMNpbFjp0

 

[rsh4364]

Yes nice and easy,I was gonna pull every fuse til I found a bad one ,found it on first try. So if your fuel gauge drops to below zero,and you don't have 12v to small wire on GP solenoid and cold start solenoid when key is on and no wait light check #17 fuse.Now to figure out why the fuse blew.

 

[tim292stro]

I always thought. Correct me if I'm wrong. that was the glow plug sensor. The sensor that controls the fast idle solenoid is on the bottom rear of the passengers side head. I never had any problems with them either so how would I be sure? But I always hear people saying the switch/sensor is over a hundred dollars US. Come on someone else bail me out here. So technically you can block off that useless sensor on the drivers side and let them wires dangle in the breeze if you have a push button glow plug system. Snip snip and tape up the wire ends. No need for that wasted plug.

The sensor on the driver's side is the GP temperature sensor, the Sensor on the Passenger side is the cold advance switch. Difference between the switch and sensor is about $90 - the sensor is cheaper than the switch.

Cold Advance switch controls the IP timing advance and high-idle solenoid, GP temp sensor just tells the GP controller what program to run for pre-start-glow and after-start-glow.

So many things going dark suddenly, the first thing I would have looked at is fuses and fusible links. Not surprising to find that's what it was

 

[Assel]

nice to hear your rig is running fine again, but be aware of 1 golden rule: Whenever Problems occur, make sure Batteries & Fuses are all good ! When repairing my gf´s Audi 80 Quattro (former mine xD) I had no wipers, no electric cooler fan when all work was done, checked Fuses , replaced one and all worked fine. was done in about a minute (repairing the whole front end after she hit a tree with ~10mph was much more work than replacing a fuse )

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks guys when it happened I was in a ghetto neighborhood and alone, I just wanted out of there. I never connected all the symptoms together.I did check batteries and volts to gp solenoid ,was 13.1. I keep a multimeter in truck.When I saw I had good batterieries,good charging from both alts and good fuel pressure I hit it with a 2 second shot of ether and away I went.

 

[bryfor]

My 85 m1009 would start fine cold after 13 sec glowplug warmup. But after say 20 min or so when starting the wait light wouldnt come on and it would have to crank about 10 secs to start. I got the temp switch from napa...ts4032 which mounts on rear if driver side head and has the original stlye single plug in connection. Now on a hot restart if say 20 min it makes the wait light come on for about 6 secs where it didnt do that before...and it fires right up. They tried to sell me a two prong one with a conversion pigtail harness first but then I found that part num listed above off this site! Worked for me...good luck! Real easy to replace....support the fitting that it screws into...and I dint use thread tape to be sure it grounded

 

[tim292stro]

With the glow plug controller, you should have a variable resistance temperature sensor on the driver's side that goes to the GP controller. The civilian version of the 6.2 had a GP Inhibit Switch rather than a sensor - my M1009 came with a switch, not a sensor so it was replaced with the incorrect part between the factory and my hands (GP controller doesn't work right if you put a switch in).

There are supposed to be two wires coming out of the sensor that goes to the GP controller, one of them is a ground, but it's important to understand that the ground return wire is there so that the GP controller card can make the most accurate measurement. Potential ground wire issues from block to frame to body to GP controller will be introduced otherwise.

 

[cucvrus]

This could still be dropping fuel. I seen this start easy cold and not start warm lead to injection pump problems. It seems to be the epidemic this year. That and driveshaft sickness hit me this year. In 2001 all 4 transmissions went out after a big storm. Just an idea. Not a diagnosis. Peace man. Chase? Your 2 cents?

 

[bryfor]

Tim 292...are you saying I might have the civvy unit ts 4032? My yellow and black wire to it hasnt been buggered with and still has the orig one pin connector in it. And it operates correctly now in our Michigan winter

 

[tim292stro]

Okay I see what it is - the sensor you have is the one-pin+one-ring type (old/original style, it's not actually one-pin). It's still a two conductor sensor (which is should be). This sensor type is going out of production in favor of the rectangular sensors, which are more common these days, which is why the newer sensors come with the plug to adapt your harness.

This is different from a "true" one conductor (case ground) sensor.


Sorry for any pucker, I've seen so much stuff butchered in CUCVs that I can get tripped up on terminology.

 

[bryfor]

Guess im gonna buy 2 for insurance! I snagged a remanufactured wiper motor with the pump assy in original gm box with nsn....gold!

 

[tim292stro]

The new rectangular part is more common in parts houses now, so yeah - if you absolutely want a sensor that some classic car collector is going to nit-pick over get the old style, or get the new style and change the plug and have the convenience of not having to build your own parts house to get a replacement... your call

Inside the brass shell it's the same components.

 

[Drock]

I just went through all of this with my M1028. I replaced all the little sensors and posted there part numbers on here...http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?150291-Glow-plug-inhibitor-switch-temp-sensor-question and here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?149688-High-idle-solenoid-acting-up