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Request M35A2 Retrieval info

Derpy

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alabama
I am aboutt to go and inspect a (what im told) m35a2 thats been sitting for 10 years and they are wishing to start it up and take it home by some means. My knowledge on repairing these vehicles is close to none and I haven't worked on a m35 thats been sitting that long nor do i know what parts would be needing replacement from sitting that long.
The truck is a 2 hour drive away sitting in a field weathering away and i need to know what all parts I might need to get her JUST to start. That would make me more than happy to hear her yell once more. I would love to know ANY tips or tricks to getting a old 68 up and running again.
If you have a link to a parts list or a check list to get a truck running would make more appreciated than i could say.
 

NDT

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The fuel system will be a disgusting mess and the brakes will be leaked out. Plan on flushing both and the cooling system as well.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Just take a pair of batteries and see if it will start. Make sure you check the fuel shut off rod moves freely before hitting the start button.
 

Derpy

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alabama
Im just out of huntsville and we are meeting in Athens to drive over there

And i knew it would be a mess in every corner to hades, but is there a way, like the texture of gas and oil, to tell if i need to flush the system before i start it and put all that gunk into the heart of the engine. by how they described it they drove it there and its sat there ever since. so the feul and oil that was in the engine was good and i dont want to risk choking her cause i didnt get a lil greasy and drain her dry and replace with good fuel and oil or what ever need to be replace.
 
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Derpy

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alabama
also the last time i was with a truck like this we used 6tl and agms, but is there a cheaper alternative battery that would have enough output to get her JUST started, no more no less. im looking at 6tls and there 250 300 usd. thats out ragious for a battery like that.they said its refurbished but we used to pay the mechanics 20 bucks to desulfar the plates, i dont have 400-600 dollars to waist like that. i might just be looking in all the wrong places, but if not thats way too much to spend on a truck that im just trying to see if she can breath.
Anyone know of refurbished 6tl batterys stores that will ship?
 
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SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Group 31 batteries. Around here blems in that size cost less than $60 each and they fit in the battery tray of most full sized pickup trucks, so they could have a use after you try to start a deuce.
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
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Trevorton / PA
Go to Wal-Mart and get the group 65's I think. Bottom line they sell a battery with a 1 year warranty for around $50. You can't beat that price anywhere.
 

texas30cal

Active member
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Location
Brenham Tx.
If worried about the fuel, take some buckets w/lids with you to drain the tank and filters, then put in 10 gal fresh diesel and some atf. The filters may be funky but as long as you have fuel flow to the secondary filters on the motor they won't keep it from running. I think the drain plug on the tank should be 1/2" square. DEFINITELY check the shutoff rod like gimpy said, it wouldn't hurt to remove the mushroom and have a chicken board handy too. I have some of the maxx wal mart batteries in mine from the previous owner and they work fine. If it won't start, check the hydraulic head plunger for up/down movement while cranking.
 

rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Before you even turn over the engine, I would recommend you take the center bolt off the Hydraulic Head and put some "PB Blaster" down that hole. I believe the leading cause of the plunger retaining clip coming off is that the plunger gets stuck due to gummy fuel. So lube down that plunger. Then after installing some good batteries open the fuel port off the secondary fuel filters and turn on the main power switch and see if any fuel is coming out. If you have fuel then tighten the port plug and try and start her up. You would be amazed at how "old" diesel fuel can be and still fire off.
 

Derpy

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alabama
im heading out this saturday to inspect the m35 and will give you guys plenty of pictures and updates of what we find. Gimpy Rob i owe you a phone call.
 

DavidWymore

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Location
El Centro, CA
Before you even turn over the engine, I would recommend you take the center bolt off the Hydraulic Head and put some "PB Blaster" down that hole. I believe the leading cause of the plunger retaining clip coming off is that the plunger gets stuck due to gummy fuel. So lube down that plunger. Then after installing some good batteries open the fuel port off the secondary fuel filters and turn on the main power switch and see if any fuel is coming out. If you have fuel then tighten the port plug and try and start her up. You would be amazed at how "old" diesel fuel can be and still fire off.
This and Gimpy

Subscribed

Never have gotten around to doing a deuce fuel sys video...maybe when the temps get back under 100...
 

Derpy

New member
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Location
alabama
sorry boys, but i am gonna have to pospone those pictures. it seems that no one is manying the gate and we cant get in. we are calling the lad to open it but no answer.
 

Floridianson

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Interlachen Fl.
Myself 10 years. Pay to have it moved by lowboy or step deck so you can take you time and service it correctly. You could flat tow it but you must check all axles and transfer case has oil. Getting in a hurry to drive it home will only cost you more in the long run.
Once home then the true service can happen.
Starting with all hubs being repacked and wheel cylinders replaced or rebuilt. All rubber brake lines checked or replaced. Master and air packed replaced /repaired and or checked for service . All fluids checked / changed. All three filter canisters taken off and inspected for rust and cleaned plus new filters. Fuel tank checked /cleaned. Intank fuel pump working and bleed of air by way of the bleeder between the secondary and final filter canisters. After a filter change/bleeding there is no problem with letting the in tank fuel pump run awhile before hitting the starter. This will remove any air and put fuel oil on the moving parts of the IP head. It won't hurt anything and the fuel should be returning to the tank that can be seen or heard.
As said by Gimpy the most important thing check for free movement of the fuel control under the shut off cover.
It was said to remove the center plug from the head. If this was ever to be done be very clean and care full as not to wash trash into the head. Myself I would not do this in the field but get it home and double clean the IP head area well.
 
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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
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Location
Cincy Ohio
Myself 10 years. Pay to have it moved by lowboy or step deck so you can take you time and service it correctly. You could flat tow it but you must check all axles and transfer case has oil. Getting in a hurry to drive it home will only cost you more in the long run.
Actually, you could pull the spline caps(front) and axles(rear) and it would only roll on the bearings, no need to check that other crap.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
Myself 10 years. Pay to have it moved by lowboy or step deck so you can take you time and service it correctly. You could flat tow it but you must check all axles and transfer case has oil. Getting in a hurry to drive it home will only cost you more in the long run.
Once home then the true service can happen.
Starting with all hubs being repacked and wheel cylinders replaced or rebuilt. All rubber brake lines checked or replaced. Master and air packed replaced /repaired and or checked for service . All fluids checked / changed. All three filter canisters taken off and inspected for rust and cleaned plus new filters. Fuel tank checked /cleaned. Intank fuel pump working and bleed of air by way of the bleeder between the secondary and final filter canisters. After a filter change/bleeding there is no problem with letting the in tank fuel pump run awhile before hitting the starter. This will remove any air and put fuel oil on the moving parts of the IP head. It won't hurt anything and the fuel should be returning to the tank that can be seen or heard.
As said by Gimpy the most important thing check for free movement of the fuel control under the shut off cover.
It was said to remove the center plug from the head. If this was ever to be done be very clean and care full as not to wash trash into the head. Myself I would not do this in the field but get it home and double clean the IP head area well.
I concur.

attachment-55.jpg

I'll roll the dice on full airbrake auction trucks with a minimal inspection , but not on a single circuit brake system.

Take it home on a trailer (or towbar) and go through it at your leisure in your driveway with a full complement of tools and support.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
I concur.

View attachment 686668

I'll roll the dice on full airbrake auction trucks with a minimal inspection , but not on a single circuit brake system.

Take it home on a trailer (or towbar) and go through it at your leisure in your driveway with a full complement of tools and support.
I agree. Take it home on a trailer or flat tow, and then do the rest at home.
 
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