Sandblasting with an Ingersol Rand diesel compressor?

[Chris_Walker]

I want to sandblast my deuce body and frame. I have access to a big tow behind IR diesel compressor. It's got an odd connector on it, probably for a jackhammer or construction equipment. If I unscrew it, theres a pipe with either 3/4" or 1" threads. Does anyone know what I would need to use this with air tools that have conventional connectors? I'm sure I'll need a high flow regulator of some sort. What about a water/oil separator? Do you use any kind of desiccant air dryer with sandblasters?

I was thinking about purchasing this unless anyone can recommend something better in the same price range:
Pressurized Sand Blaster

Should I buy anything else with it? Extra tips or hoses?

Thanks.

 

[zout]

Pressurized tank w/blasting material in it is the best as far as home use.

KEEP ALL WATER FROM ENTERING the tank

reduce down to your connecitons off the compressor and if using an 80# tank it only takes 70#'s pressure continuous in the tank to do a great job.

DO not use sand unless you have air respirator - trust me on this. If you use sand - SIFT SIFT SIFT SIFT SIFT SIFT SIFT.

Black beauty from Northern Equip or like material - you can sift this a couple times if you capture it and recyle it - SIFT IT EACH TIME.

Air pressure is the key to a great sand blasting job. As you use it it will come to you to regulate the output of material on the bottom side of the tank - just keep it where it sheds material without damage to the metal.

If your in the heat - hood on as it should be - keep plenty of liquid in you besides beer or alcohol - take proper breaks to relieve yourself.

most important - pictures pictures pictures

 

[gimpyrobb]

The different size fittings only allow so much volume of air to flow. That tow behind compressor will put out huge volumes(cfm) of air. These fittings are matched to supply that high volume. Buy an end and bush it down to use a "regular" fitting. Using that air comp. for small fittings is a waste of money though. You should find something that uses the same CFM as your compressor. blasting will go MUCH faster that way.

 

[Chris_Walker]

Thanks for the suggestions. The deuce is on a farm right now. The big compressor is always there. I'm not paying money to rent one or anything. I was thinking I could take them both out into a field and blast it where I wouldn't have to worry about making a mess. The only thing that worries me is the moisture. It only has a 10 gallon reserve tank, but a ton of water comes out when I open the valve. In addition to a water separator, will one of those disposable units work at the end of the hose? I have a bunch of those for my paint guns. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13986.jpg

I really wanted to use play sand due to it being so cheap. I'm aware of the risk with the silica, but with a respirator and high velocity fan I might be able to keep the dust away from me. I use it at home all the time, but my mini siphon feed blaster doesn't even have a high enough velocity to create dust.

 

[zout]

Get one of the top sandblaster feed tank sifters - I think Northern has them for like $6 - anything that will not pass through it will clog up your nozzles. Speaking of ceramic nozzles - with that awesome compressor get a couple packs of them.

Sift that sand really really good - total PIA if you don't.

If you have a pressurized tank blaster there should be a water capture system on the back of it - but also what you want to use is also a great addition.
Like a home compressor - see if there is a drain on the bottom of the tank - keep it slightly open to drain off condensant while operating.

Just law of physics getting the water.


BTW - for those unaware: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001191/

 

[Jzallan]

If your not experienced in blasting the sheet metal parts, such as the doors, the hood, or the fenders, keep in mind that it is very easy to warp these parts with the heat from the sand! I had a blasting company do my parts and they even had problems. If your going to use equipment your not familiar with, try it on something you don't care about so you don't make a mess outa the good stuff!

 

[135gmc]

He's right - ypu don't want to learn how to blast sheetmetal using your own truck for experiments. If you really really want to do it yourself, buy some junk doors from a scrap yard to learn on. Consider hiring someone, though - by the time you buy sand (Black Beauty foundry slag or similar) it starts to run into money. I had a local sandblaster do my M37 - I drove it there, did all the masking, and he could do on a rainy day in his shed when he couldn't work at the refinery. The cost, complete with primer, was $ 175 cash.

If you really want to do it yourself, the trick is to drop the air pressure to about 65-80 PSIG, and sweep the sand over the metal at a shallow angle. If you hit it straight on, you will stretch the sheetmetal, and bulge the steel out of shape very very fast. Mask anything that you don't want to blast with duct tape - the rubber adhesive in the tape absorbs the sand's impact. A bundle of rags or an old cloth tarp also can be used to protect the engine. Sand gets absolutely every place, so plan on cleaning it up for a very long time. You need a very good respirator and blasting helmet, especially if you are using silica sand. The respirator can be supplied from your compressor, but you also need a special filter to handle the oil and water that's in he compressed air. Clothing is as simple as coveralls, but use duct tape to close the pockets, or you're going to find each is full of sand. Leather welding gloves work fine. Wear leather boots so your socks don't fill with sand. As soon as you are done, you need to blow off any sand and prime the truck immediately or it will rust within hours. You will need a good moisture separator if you want to use the portable compressor for painting.

Like I said, it's a whole lot easier, and maybe even cheaper, to let a pro do it.

 

[Jzallan]

Depending on the abrasive you choose, some sanding may be necessary before priming. I always use 180grit on a DA sander. Don't go cheap on the primer either! PPG has one of the best etch primers, DP40 works excellent! I look at the paint like I look at quality tools, you pay a good price for good tools/paint. Your only mad one time when you buy good paint/tools, your happy from then on! Buy cheap paint/tools, your happy one time, your mad from then on when it fails!

 

[Rambling Wreck]

Thanks for the suggestions. The deuce is on a farm right now. The big compressor is always there. I'm not paying money to rent one or anything. I was thinking I could take them both out into a field and blast it where I wouldn't have to worry about making a mess. The only thing that worries me is the moisture. It only has a 10 gallon reserve tank, but a ton of water comes out when I open the valve. In addition to a water separator, will one of those disposable units work at the end of the hose? I have a bunch of those for my paint guns. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13986.jpg

I really wanted to use play sand due to it being so cheap. I'm aware of the risk with the silica, but with a respirator and high velocity fan I might be able to keep the dust away from me. I use it at home all the time, but my mini siphon feed blaster doesn't even have a high enough velocity to create dust.

I bought one of those with the same idea in mind but when I removed it from the package I realized it wasn't meant to work at anything but low pressures. I now use a Milton dryer that I picked up at Northern Tool.

As the other poster said, use a respirator if using silica based blast material. The dust that it is pulverized into can cause serious health problems if inhaled.

 

[135gmc]

Avoid play sand like the plague - it's straight silica sand, and if it's beach sand, it won't blast worth a hoot since the waves have tumbled it around and dulled the corners. You need to buy sandblasting sand - most blasters around here use Black Beauty - it's made from foundry slag, so it's sharp and cuts fast. Its probably as low silica as there is as well. Don't try to scoop your used sand up and reuse it - it's dull, and won't blast. Remember that the paint used on MIL trucks probably has lots of things in it that you don't want to breathe, so wear a respirator when you do any sanding on a painted surface. Doing it yourself can work out OK, but remember, sometimes you can't afford to save any more money.....

 

[wdbtchr]

Another point to consider: when blowing sand and dust off yourself while cleaning up use lower pressure air gun because you can actually blow contaminents through your skin. I've seen the effects of guys blowing fly ash from a boiler off themselves and blowing the sulfuric acid it contains into their skin. Makes a really bad rash that takes a long time to heal.

 

[930dreamer]

The diesel compressor won't work on a home type blasting set up. Your compressor puts out at least 100 cfm. I'd look at renting a blasting set up to use with your compressor.

 

[supermechanic]

GET A SUPPLIED-AIR RESPIRATOR.
That advice needs all caps, yes, I'm yelling.
This was said in the body of many of the previous posts, but it needs to stand by itself.
If you were close to me I'd let you use mine, and my 300 pound blast tank as well.

 

[Beerslayer]

Great info given ^^^

For sure Play Sand is for Playing in by Children. Not for blasting. Any sand out of the river has been rounded off and is a waste of time and resources to try and blast with it. Use sandblasting grit, it is sharp and cleans things up quick.