Starter 12v or 24v ?

[Marty G]

I bought my m1008 at a used car lot. Thea could not get it to start for me to take a test drive so there parts replacer.(i wont call him a mechanic) Had taken the starter off and was trying some he picked up in there junkyard (no military vehicles there i checked) and a solenoid he had new in the box. I could not make him understand that it was a 24 volt system or that it was any different than any other diesel. long story shorter Thea failed to get it running and made me a good deal on it.

now my problem is i don't now what truck the starter on my truck came from i do know it has a 12v solenoid on it though from listening to videos posted on hear my starter spins way to fast any way to identify if it is 24 volt?

The truck is factory 24v with the battery's wired in series.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Marty

 

[Crash_AF]

If you don't know what the starter is, just drop the coin on a replacement to remove all doubt. That or go back to the dealership and try to get the starter that came off of it and have it rebuilt.

Later,
Joe

 

[Marty G]

If you don't know what the starter is, just drop the coin on a replacement to remove all doubt.

I'm hoping all i need is a solenoid don't wont to drop that much coin for no reason the starter works fine.

If it turns out to be a 12v i could do the 12v conversion.

That or go back to the dealership and try to get the starter that came off of it and have it rebuilt.

Later,
Joe

if i knew what starter was on it originally i would not have needed to make this post. the Parts replacer wasn't even sure.

 

[dmc-4359]

If it is spinning too fast, it seems that your guy did put a 12v starter in. You can do the conversion, which doesn't take that long. If you do I suspect you'll want to jumper your under dash relay so that it won't be one extra piece to give you problems. Also, I suggest running a 2 gauge ground wire directly to one of the starter mount bolts as the ground on top of the engine is questionable at best and for the extra current needs of a 12v starter on this engine, it seems inadequate.

If I were in your position, I'd consider ordering a 24v starter off ebay for $120-$150 and not fooling with any extra work or unknowns until you're familiar with the setup you have. It is a 25 year old truck, you'll get plenty of other opportunities to turn wrenches on it (grin).

 

[Marty G]

Thanks I turn wrenches on antiques and hot rods for a living so 25 years old doesn't bother me.

To me it does seem to be spinning fast but this is my first cucv Ive had several civy version in the last 24 years.

what I'm wanting to know is there any way to identify my starter?

 

[dmc-4359]

Assuming you have no part numbers on the device, post some pictures with a ruler positioned for reference. Assuming I can remember to this evening, I'll do the same. I still have two 24 volt direct drive units as well as a 12v gear reduction that had a shady rebuild that I can compare to on my work bench.

 

[airmech]

They most likely installed a 12v starter. The conversion is quite simple and I would go that route. For mine I left the system mostly intact and just rewired the alts in parallel to give a standbye system. Remove the red wire and condensor from the pass alt ground lug, insulate and secure the red wire. Add a heavy ground wire from the lug to engine. Cut the red wire from the 12v junction to front battery near the large terminal strip, add a ring connector and atatch to the upper strip. Remove the large glow plug resister from the firewall and atatch the power lead from the GP solenoid to the 12v junction. Rewire the batteries in parallel using #2 cable. To make the volt gauge read properly you will need to remove the drop resister or install a 12v gauge. The 2 alts will sort out which one will supply power, under light load the one with higher voltage will put out and the other will basically be just along for the ride, but if one fails the other will pick up the load.

 

[Marty G]

They most likely installed a 12v starter. The conversion is quite simple and I would go that route. For mine I left the system mostly intact and just rewired the alts in parallel .

I hadn't thought about parallel wiring the alts thats a good idea. Thanks

Assuming you have no part numbers on the device, post some pictures with a ruler positioned for reference. Assuming I can remember to this evening, I'll do the same. I still have two 24 volt direct drive units as well as a 12v gear reduction that had a shady rebuild that I can compare to on my work bench.

i went out and pulled the starter the part numbers on it are

1998367 5j 20 with delco Remy USA under it

then on the other side

hd 1227 49

the last digit 9 I'm assuming it was hard to make out

Thanks for the help

 

[Marty G]

pics of the starter

 

[Ken_86gt]

I just did an internet search on your part number, 1998367 delco Remy, and it comes up as a 12v starter.

 

[Milbikes]

$150 for the correct new 24 volt starter is not crazy money. It would be much easier to just install the correct part, with no need to start cutting, splicing, removing stock parts. In the end, the truck will be more original, and the value will be higher. Put two identical condition Military trucks next to each other for sale, one all stock, and one 'improved' with wiring/voltage modifications and conversions, and see which one buyers avoid, and which one they step up to the plate for. Stock is king. Most buyers see modifications, and they think "Mickey-moused, I better avoid this one". I am not saying that a well done modification is Mickey-mouse, I am just reflecting on buyer reactions I have seen over the years (And mine as a buyer).

 

[Marty G]

I just did an internet search on your part number, 1998367 delco Remy, and it comes up as a 12v starter.

Thanks i searched on delco remy web site but never thought to try a regular web search.

 

[Marty G]

$150 for the correct new 24 volt starter is not crazy money. It would be much easier to just install the correct part, with no need to start cutting, splicing, removing stock parts. In the end, the truck will be more original, and the value will be higher. Put two identical condition Military trucks next to each other for sale, one all stock, and one 'improved' with wiring/voltage modifications and conversions, and see which one buyers avoid, and which one they step up to the plate for. Stock is king. Most buyers see modifications, and they think "Mickey-moused, I better avoid this one". I am not saying that a well done modification is Mickey-mouse, I am just reflecting on buyer reactions I have seen over the years (And mine as a buyer).

I understand what you are saying my Friend but this truck is going to be a custom rig no concern at all for originality.

If the truck had been in better shape i would have keep it original but the only good panels on this truck was the passenger, fender door and bed side

I'm going to try and find a nice m1009 to keep original and drive later after this one is wear i want it.

this truck i am going to run off road.

 

[mtjbrown]

Marty, what size tires you got there??

 

[Marty G]

37 12.50 16.5 radial trxus Mt's 10 ply

 

[mtjbrown]

look good, man!!

 

[Marty G]

Thanks

 

[urik84]

stater part number

hey guys just picked up my first military rig m1008. i think i may have fried the starter or the relay today does any one have a part number were i can buy a new 24v starter?