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To doghead relay mod or delete relay all together and other electrical issues

Rennat_2006

New member
20
16
3
Location
Idaho
86 m1009 that has been converted over to 12v following the rosscommon conversion PDF.

Been reading up a ton of some common electrical issues and the repairs to fix them. Doghead relay mod is gotta be the most popular and for good reason. I have read that rigs built after july 1985 "shouldnt" have the bad relay but there is no way to really know so just replace it. Ive also read that this relay was used for using the 12v side to trigger the 24v to the starter. Since mine is converted to 12v it seems to me that it would be best to just delete this all together for 1 less thing to possibly fail down the road versus replacing it with the napa or similar one. Whats everyone else opinion in this situation? If deleting it is the best way to go does anyone have the information on how to do so?

Been fighting inop headlights that had the lt green wires cut on the drivers side headlight connector. I got the wires reconnected but still have no power to the headlight plugs. All other lights including turn signals work now after getting the BO switches set correctly 30amp fuse on the FB isnt blown and has no damage in the FB itself like ive read about is common. If im understanding correctly having power at the fuse confirms that the fusible link in the circuit is good as with the rest of the "feed" side and next step is checking for power in and out of the headlight switch itself.

This m1009 spent its ex military life as part of a search and rescue setup for the local county. Odometer shows 44k which is believe is true from the military records and sale record that were in the glovebox but she has had a hard life the more and more i look into it. Frame repairs at the steering box that dont look to be up to my standards, broken upper shock mount on rear axle, balljoints are shot on the front axle, frame upper rear shackle hanger bushings are shot, stab wound on the front bumper, all of the BO light wiring has been cut at the lights, etc. Im sure its some stories to tell.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
581
666
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
86 m1009 that has been converted over to 12v following the rosscommon conversion PDF.

Been reading up a ton of some common electrical issues and the repairs to fix them. Doghead relay mod is gotta be the most popular and for good reason. I have read that rigs built after july 1985 "shouldnt" have the bad relay but there is no way to really know so just replace it. Ive also read that this relay was used for using the 12v side to trigger the 24v to the starter. Since mine is converted to 12v it seems to me that it would be best to just delete this all together for 1 less thing to possibly fail down the road versus replacing it with the napa or similar one. Whats everyone else opinion in this situation? If deleting it is the best way to go does anyone have the information on how to do so?

Been fighting inop headlights that had the lt green wires cut on the drivers side headlight connector. I got the wires reconnected but still have no power to the headlight plugs. All other lights including turn signals work now after getting the BO switches set correctly 30amp fuse on the FB isnt blown and has no damage in the FB itself like ive read about is common. If im understanding correctly having power at the fuse confirms that the fusible link in the circuit is good as with the rest of the "feed" side and next step is checking for power in and out of the headlight switch itself.

This m1009 spent its ex military life as part of a search and rescue setup for the local county. Odometer shows 44k which is believe is true from the military records and sale record that were in the glovebox but she has had a hard life the more and more i look into it. Frame repairs at the steering box that dont look to be up to my standards, broken upper shock mount on rear axle, balljoints are shot on the front axle, frame upper rear shackle hanger bushings are shot, stab wound on the front bumper, all of the BO light wiring has been cut at the lights, etc. Im sure its some stories to tell.
The AC Delco relay costs $28 on Amazon. I haven't had a problem on my M1008 since I repkaded the original with the $28 amazon AC Delco relay but then again I've only been driving it for about 8 years. Merry Christmas and good luck.
 

Rennat_2006

New member
20
16
3
Location
Idaho
Thanks for the information

Im almost thinking i might as well delete it since im 12 volts but need to figure out the wiring to do so.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
581
666
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Thanks for the information

Im almost thinking i might as well delete it since im 12 volts but need to figure out the wiring to do so.
Well, you could remove the relay and run a jumper wire from the ignition hot to starter but you gotta figure out which is which. One of those wires is hot all the time, one gets hot when you turn the key to start, one is ground and one feeds hot to the starter. You probably know that but that's all I can come up with for help. In case you don't have it I am attaching a screenshot of the starting wiring diagram from TM9-2320-289-34, page E1 (pdf 945).

Screenshot_20211220-184007_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
810
113
Location
Virginia
It would be a lot simpler to just replace it with a modern automotive relay. The doghead mod is not a sure cure for that problem, as we have had people suffer the runaway starter even after doing the doghead mod. Just replace it with the AC Delco unit mentioned above, or with a standard 5 pin automotive relay, and you will be good to go. That circuit only draws 9 amps, so any 20 or 20 amp relay will be plenty.

That way, if you ever decide to go back to 24v, you haven't hacked up the wiring.
 

Rennat_2006

New member
20
16
3
Location
Idaho
Figured out my headlight issues after getting the green wires reconected at the drivers side headlight and doing some testing. The hi/lo selector switch on the column was not passing anything through it. Gave it a good tap and it has worked perfect ever since.

Starter relay stuck on me a few days ago after a 0* start attempt that was very hard on the batteries. Batteries were pulled down pretty low when it stuck and a quick hit on the dash below the relay reset it and hasnt happened again since ive charged the batteries. The county i bought this blazer had installed a company radio in the dash where the civvy stereo would have been so with that taken out ive got direct access to those 3 relays mounted back there on the top side of that panel if it acts up again.
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
819
548
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Figured out my headlight issues after getting the green wires reconected at the drivers side headlight and doing some testing. The hi/lo selector switch on the column was not passing anything through it. Gave it a good tap and it has worked perfect ever since.

Starter relay stuck on me a few days ago after a 0* start attempt that was very hard on the batteries. Batteries were pulled down pretty low when it stuck and a quick hit on the dash below the relay reset it and hasnt happened again since ive charged the batteries. The county i bought this blazer had installed a company radio in the dash where the civvy stereo would have been so with that taken out ive got direct access to those 3 relays mounted back there on the top side of that panel if it acts up again.
Replace that relay and never crank the truck for so long as to kill the batteries. That's one of the reasons why the relays fail.
 

Rennat_2006

New member
20
16
3
Location
Idaho
Replace that relay and never crank the truck for so long as to kill the batteries. That's one of the reasons why the relays fail.
Yeah i wasnt too surprised when it stuck that time. Did it again today though on a warm startup so that relay is definetely going to be replaced.
 
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