Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Belts yet? Only brand I personally use is Gates. (Believe NAPA is gates, rebranded) Many years ago I had a problem with a different manufacturer.... You'd consistently have to tighten initial and twice more shortly after. Was on fleet work and it was the norm.....

Keep the old ones for back-up on the road trip! If you have them you'll never need them! Believe there's numerous posts as to the correct belts...
The generator belts were put on last year when I first got the truck, but the other belt hasn’t been changed. I’ll check all those when I’m done with the big stuff for sure.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,127
476
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Yeah and inconsistent sizing leaves you at the end of the adjustment after the belts break in. You end up going to a size shorter and rolling it on. I agree, Gates are probably the industry standard for automotive.

I have transitioned to now using a thin layer of rtv on both sides of a paper gasket. I think as stuff gets older the mating surfaces get imperfections that just dont seal with paper alone. Especially the aluminum thermostat housing which takes a beating from electrolysis.



Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Looks like the thermostat is available on Amazon.


Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
Well that duralast 42995 thermostat ended up being completely wrong. It’s too small to even fit in the tube. I went ahead and ordered the AC delco off Amazon. I will be returning the duraturd first thing tomorrow lol.

Thanks for the Amazon link.
 

Attachments

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Sometimes you have to take the old parts along for comparison. Computer wizards that never worked on vehicle are working at selling parts these days. Good Luck. I think you have this.
Yeah I should’ve done that. I saw that part number in the cucv wiki page and figured 42995 would be a standard size or something.. it is not. No big deal I’ll take it back and the correct one is on the way.

This page here : https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-wiki.27427/

“ Hockey Puck Thermostat - NAPA 381-190, Autozone 42995, Orielly 42995”
 
Last edited:

Skinny

Well-known member
2,127
476
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Yeah I don't know about you but a nicely reman'd injection pump makes me happy inside.

Congratulations on your parts store experience. In general, the parts you get amd the help you recieved is going to be a shiny turd when you go to a big box auto parts. I have found that Napa or similar is best where the dude behind the counter actually knows about car stuff where Autozone or similar is a high school kid.

Typically I just go on Rockauto and look up the parts for an 83 K30 6.2 diesel. Good chance if you stick to the OEM brands they will be the correct and best parts. Brands like AC Delco, Stanadyne, Delphi, Bosch (more newer stuff), etc.

You can also search by part number so in the parts TM, you can grab the part number Chevy gives you. Use that number on RockAuto to find what it crosses to the part manufacturer's number.

So the GM part number in their system also given to you in the parts TM is 14077122. AC Delco who makes the part for them has their own part number which crosses to 132-55. This number is easier to use with parts stores and online. The GM number is what you would use if you called the dealership. Now it also may supercede to something else if the part is revised.

Then you can search online to figure out where you want to buy it. Rockauto is a great place to buy, sometimes Amazon is cheaper or quicker for individual stuff. Or if I'm in a hurry 2 day prime when its actually 2 day prime and not 2 week prime. Thanks Covid...

But you can also take that number and call around parts stores and just bypass the phone monkey. That way thay arent asking you if your truck has AC and what color it is. Yeah I need a front axle joint for a 95 Jeep Cherokee. Monkey asks is it two or four wheel drive? Uh...front axle ujoint...Bueller...Bueller.......

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

M1009_SPAIN

Active member
45
130
33
Location
Spain
I just picked up the new IP and injectors from badger diesel. The pump looks great!
I love the work you are doing, I am in the same and thanks to cucvrus I am almost finished, here is that in Spain there are no parts and you have to buy them in Europe, especially Germany, England or Rockauto, Oregon Diesel, We are in stores in the USA, with the shipping time that entails that they send it to my country, congratulations good job I am eager to see the truck in life again
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
I love the work you are doing, I am in the same and thanks to cucvrus I am almost finished, here is that in Spain there are no parts and you have to buy them in Europe, especially Germany, England or Rockauto, Oregon Diesel, We are in stores in the USA, with the shipping time that entails that they send it to my country, congratulations good job I am eager to see the truck in life again
Thanks so much! I wish you luck in your project, too! :)

Yeah I don't know about you but a nicely reman'd injection pump makes me happy inside.
Here's some more pics of the IP. Man, is this thing beautiful! The injectors are using Denso nozzles. Badger said he recently started using them and they're cheaper than Bosch and in his opinion they perform better, too.

@cucvrus I was pleasantly surprised to see a fresh dowel installed on there, too!

I didn't work too much on the truck today. I'm a little sore from climbing in and out of the engine bay non-stop lol. Maybe I will get it all done by the end of the weekend. We will see!
 

Attachments

Hicks

New member
8
6
3
Location
Wisconsin
Awesome truck I'm also in Wisconsin in Milwaukee. I say I could help you but looks like you dont need it. I'm kinda on the same path of thinking as you except for the GVOD but I think I read if you want to do a 6 inch lift you need a longer drive shaft. I have settled on the 37s with a 4inch with 12 bolt humvee rims. I would love to see the truck if your near as I have some problems on my truck that I like to see and test voltage to see whats wrong. I also make it up to northern Wisconsin every now and again if your up that way too. I made the trip across country with my 94 chevy and I would opt to do that, I tried shipping it but the shipping companies were a nightmare for me. I think it cost me 350 bucks at 12 miles to the gallon when I did it and it was an awesome trip.
 
Last edited:

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Awesome truck I'm also in Wisconsin in Milwaukee. I say I could help you but looks like you dont need it. I'm kinda on the same path of thinking as you except for the GVOD but I think I read if you want to do a 6 inch lift you need a longer drive shaft. I have settled on the 37s with a 4inch with 12 bolt humvee rims. I would love to see the truck if your near as I have some problems on my truck that I like to see and test voltage to see whats wrong. I also make it up to northern Wisconsin every now and again if your up that way too. I made the trip across country with my 94 chevy and I would opt to do that, I tried shipping it but the shipping companies were a nightmare for me. I think it cost me 350 bucks at 12 miles to the gallon when I did it and it was an awesome trip.
Awesome! I will reach out to you with a PM once I’m done with all this stuff. Is your truck running?
 

Hicks

New member
8
6
3
Location
Wisconsin
Awesome! I will reach out to you with a PM once I’m done with all this stuff. Is your truck running?
no its not it didnt have the dimmer switch, park neutral switch, and ignition switch, battery wires, and no keys. also the glow plug solinoid wasnt hooked up so I looked on youtube videos and think I hooked it up right. so last time I was home I put all those on except the park neutral switch and tried to start it like a goof but I think that was my problem. The park neutral switch has 3 connector points and the plug for it only has 2 so idk if thats ok.
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
no its not it didnt have the dimmer switch, park neutral switch, and ignition switch, battery wires, and no keys. also the glow plug solinoid wasnt hooked up so I looked on youtube videos and think I hooked it up right. so last time I was home I put all those on except the park neutral switch and tried to start it like a goof but I think that was my problem. The park neutral switch has 3 connector points and the plug for it only has 2 so idk if thats ok.
Alright well you can check out my truck and see how things are connected later on. As far as the keys go, the cucvs are all keyed alike. You can buy keys on eBay or from hillbilly wizard.

@cucvrus I just got the fuel lift pump!
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,504
6,710
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
no its not it didnt have the dimmer switch, park neutral switch, and ignition switch, battery wires, and no keys. also the glow plug solinoid wasnt hooked up so I looked on youtube videos and think I hooked it up right. so last time I was home I put all those on except the park neutral switch and tried to start it like a goof but I think that was my problem. The park neutral switch has 3 connector points and the plug for it only has 2 so idk if thats ok.
I think that the neutral safety switch at the bottom of the steering column on the CUCV operates the B/U lamps only. The key only works in the neutral and park position. I think that is controlled by the rod on the steering column itself. I know that the only wires that run to the switch are B/U lamp wires. You can click that right or left for adjustment. If you don't have starter engagement check the relay at the panel where a stock radio would go and make sure the wire on the starter is hooked to the correct side. Inner screw towards the block gets the small wire. Good Luck. I hope that helps.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,127
476
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Awesome truck I'm also in Wisconsin in Milwaukee. I say I could help you but looks like you dont need it. I'm kinda on the same path of thinking as you except for the GVOD but I think I read if you want to do a 6 inch lift you need a longer drive shaft. I have settled on the 37s with a 4inch with 12 bolt humvee rims. I would love to see the truck if your near as I have some problems on my truck that I like to see and test voltage to see whats wrong. I also make it up to northern Wisconsin every now and again if your up that way too. I made the trip across country with my 94 chevy and I would opt to do that, I tried shipping it but the shipping companies were a nightmare for me. I think it cost me 350 bucks at 12 miles to the gallon when I did it and it was an awesome trip.
The 16.5 is really no longer supported. I would think a lot before committing to them. There are only a handful of treads offered and they are $$$.

If you plan on military takeoffs be prepared for cracks and them running square.

Dont get me wrong I loved my MT look but they suck in every other regard. Then once you decide to replace them with new you are like cool, 4 different tires are offered.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

Hicks

New member
8
6
3
Location
Wisconsin
I think that the neutral safety switch at the bottom of the steering column on the CUCV operates the B/U lamps only. The key only works in the neutral and park position. I think that is controlled by the rod on the steering column itself. I know that the only wires that run to the switch are B/U lamp wires. You can click that right or left for adjustment. If you don't have starter engagement check the relay at the panel where a stock radio would go and make sure the wire on the starter is hooked to the correct side. Inner screw towards the block gets the small wire. Good Luck. I hope that helps.
Ok, Ill check that relay. I did take off the starter and cleaned it up but didnt bench test it. I did make sure it was in park and tested that I have 24v to the starter and also checked the blocks but idk what readings I should get and where. When I was trying to start it I did hear the glow plug relay make a click but idk what reading Im suppose to get off each of the 4 connecting points

also Skinny I already bought 3 on an auction cause I also want to get a m1102 trailer that way I would run all the same tires and have a spare or 2 on the truck and another one for the trailer
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,127
476
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Good luck with them. I hate to say it but the 17" rim is really where its at for tire selection without looking too big in rim diameter.

I was 16.5 for almost a decade. Then just called it quits and had a ton of Ford 16s from the 90's which I like the utility look. Plus both the CUCV and Burb have same everything.

Now if you want anything bigger then a 35" it seems like 17 is the new normal.

Just something to share after I sunk a few grand in 10 rims and tires for both rigs.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Just a little progress report. I've been working on getting everything cleaned up for re-installation. Luckily my brother had a pneumatic tool with the gasket remover discs from his mechanic days, so I was able to get all my surfaces really nice and clean.

While cleaning I noticed dried up silicone hanging from the valve covers, so I decided to go ahead and pull them and re-seal them. I'd really hate to do all this work and then have a leaky valve cover. I also stripped them and will repaint them since they weren't looking too sharp.

More work, but will be worth it in the end!

Also, the new thermostat arrived. It's one of those gold ones, but fits perfectly.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Finished painting the valve covers. Going to let them cure a couple days before putting them back on. I’ve got the motor covered very well with plastic until then.
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks