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What is this part- where can I obtain it, or should I make one?

edpdx

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One of these is broken off behind the bracket. Probably why the power steer ing bracket tab broke off. I can't fing a part number in the engine TM or the 20P TM. The bolt seems to be spec's for the right ALT and there is a part number of 14067718, but I have not foud it in a GM parts search. Anybody know what I can use here?
 

Skinny

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No idea if you're can still make one bit a machine shop could whip one up for you. Try McMaster Carr, they do carry many types of double ended fasteners.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

Sharecropper

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View attachment 823461View attachment 823463
One of these is broken off behind the bracket. Probably why the power steer ing bracket tab broke off. I can't fing a part number in the engine TM or the 20P TM. The bolt seems to be spec's for the right ALT and there is a part number of 14067718, but I have not foud it in a GM parts search. Anybody know what I can use here?
John at Hillbilly Wizard probably has as many as you need. If not I may have an extra one in my spare parts bin you are welcome to. I’ll check when I get to my shop in the morning.
 

Keith_J

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The reason that part isn't in the-20P is it is a direct support part..look at the SMR code, if the third character is F, it is direct support. All organization level parts are O. Example, PAOZZ is organization while PAFZZ is direct support.

I had time to research..figure 31 in the -34P. 14071080 is the GM part, no NSN in the TM edition I have. As suspected, SMR is PAFZZ as it secures the coolant pump to timing cover which is a direct support service item on the maintenance allocation table..
I know not everyone had a TM reading class, just ask and us old folks can unmuddy the waters.

The reading isn't hard, it just is boring. Since I didn't have the smoking habit, I spent breaks reading in the TM library.
 
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Recovry4x4

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So, I went through the 34P figuring, I can find it. I didn't. Then I went through the 6.2 34P and didn't find it there. Then I ran to the basement to get out my GM CUCV parts and illustration catalog only to find that I don't have it. I then remembered giving it away years ago. New one will be here in a week .

Anyone else have this catalog in hand?
 

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Rutjes

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So, I went through the 34P figuring, I can find it. I didn't. Then I went through the 6.2 34P and didn't find it there. Then I ran to the basement to get out my GM CUCV parts and illustration catalog only to find that I don't have it. I then remembered giving it away years ago. New one will be here in a week .

Anyone else have this catalog in hand?
This one?
 

Keith_J

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14071080? Figure 31 in the -34P. You have to see what it first secures to the engine. That would be the coolant pump.

I was the unofficial CPL Joe Bowers..
 

edpdx

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Don't the coolant crossover manifold have the same stud/bolts? And the rear ones have them and they are not used. Let me know I can help here.
1610849911371.png
1610850221663.png So I pulled the other stud that holds the Alt bracket (in ORANGE) The #6 bolt is called for in the water pump as well.Top one looks homemade with the broken end possibly left in the cylinder head. The bottom one is chewed up- I don't know why since the bad end was firmly in the head! Measuring across the bolt end threads, I get 9mm. I have to find my thread gauge to be certain. Any way, these are what I am looking for. Thanks for all comments.

OOOPs. Missed the part about the back of the cylinder heads possibly being equipped with these- and not being used. I 'll check by the dawn's early light. I'd be surprised though.
 

cucvrus

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I went and looked at a CUCV 6.2 engine I have as a spare. I think you need these parts/studs/bolts. Easy fix. Go to the hardware store and get a short section of threaded M10 1.5 metric rod and a 4 M10 1.5 nuts. Flange nuts if they have them. Make your own studs and they will work fine. The power steering bracket will need welded and double plied at the break. Take your time. I don't think you will have any issues. Just make sure the bolts and nuts are tight. Good Luck.P1000734.JPGP1000735.JPG
 

edpdx

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From my original post, you can see that I am having trouble with the bolts that hold the driver-side alternation bracket to the cylinder head. The two bolts do double duty for the power steering bracket as well... yeah, that one.. Post #17 shows the two bolts. The one on the right is chewed up- it's a mystery to me how it would get that way inside the block?!?

The one on top left tumbled out as I removed the P/S bracket. There was about two threads left in the block where it had sheared off and worn against the piece that came out with the P/S bracket. I could barely nip the threads with pliers, but it would not turn out. I Dremeled a notch in the face, but a sturdy screwdriver could not move it either. Yesterday I hit it with a welder, but could not get the bolt end to meld with a nut. Had better luck welding a 3/16" washer to the broken stub, and was able to turn it out with a vise-grip only to find an unexpectedly short stub. I checked the depth of the hole and discovered another section left in the block?!? After some judicious drilling I was able to baby it out with a HFT extractor. ps bolts.jpg Here's a picture of the 3 piece disaster- the long threaded part held the P/S bracket. The middle piece was the stub sticking out of the block (now with welded-on washer- it's turned 180 degrees the wrong way in the picture), the final piece is still on the extractor. Endeavor to persevere.

Question: What should be used, if anything to keep the brand new bolts from ending up the way this last set looks? Anti-seize? Thread-loc?

I'm chasing the M10 bolt holes before I replace the Alt/brackets and P/S, but I'd like to know what treatment I might use to keep these bolts tight.
 

cucvrus

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If all else fails and I mean all else. You do have the option of changing the head gaskets and switching heads so you have a new hole to work with. That is after all else fails only. Depends if you know the history of the engine and how well it was maintained. Changing head gaskets in not that big of a deal. just make sure you have the heads checked and rebuilt at a reputable automotive machine shop. Also try your hardest to get the holes cleaned out as good as you can this a thread chaser and go the M10 x 1.5 threaded rod route. The bolt on the right was flipped from the top of the power steering main pivot point. It couldn't get that way in the block. I know the head gasket change is a long run for such but I have pulled entire engines because of starter bolts that had been messed with in the military and the trucks were code H for the starter bolts broke off and I had them at a machine shop and fixed properly and they never had issues again. Many things are simple just hard to get to the simple part. Take Care and Have a Great Day. Good Luck. You can easily make them studs with mid nuts. Make them stronger and faster. You know that saying? We can rebuild him.
 
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