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white d298er engine timing

rexwinter

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I am new here so I hope this in the right place
I have a mep 005a generator set with a white d298er engine , build date 10/4/83, spec mil-e-11276.
It would not run and I found that the STANADYNE DBMFC 633-1LK FUEL INJ. PUMP was seized. I hd it rebuilt.
Standing in front looking at the radiator the pump is on the left side of the engine. my question is about the timing
should it be 20 degrees before top dead center no 1 cylinder
thanks
 

Ray70

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Yes, that sounds right. If you look in the TM it explains how to install the pump. The motor needs to be at 20 BTDC using the hole in the bell housing ( if I recall correctly ) then you line up the marks under the timing cover plate on the side of the pump body before installing the pump.
Look around here on the forum for more tips on lubricating and installing the unbrella seals on the pump shaft to successfully get them in without damaging them.
Depending on how you removed the pump ( with or without shaft attached ) will determine what you have to do to get it back in correctly.
 

Guyfang

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Yes, that sounds right. If you look in the TM it explains how to install the pump. The motor needs to be at 20 BTDC using the hole in the bell housing ( if I recall correctly ) then you line up the marks under the timing cover plate on the side of the pump body before installing the pump.
Look around here on the forum for more tips on lubricating and installing the unbrella seals on the pump shaft to successfully get them in without damaging them.
Depending on how you removed the pump ( with or without shaft attached ) will determine what you have to do to get it back in correctly.
Like Ray said, read the -34 TM. This is not too hard to get right, but reading before, (maybe even 2-3 times) will ensure you get it right.

Also like Ray told you, getting the seals on the shaft lubed up GOOD before trying to stick the pump back in the engine, will keep you from having to remove the pump again, when your crank case fills up with diesel. So get it right. I always used some good grease, to insure the seals slide in right, and that the first seal will not flip over, allowing fuel to leak into the crank case.

How did you pull the IP? Time the engine first? Or just pull it out?
 

rexwinter

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thanks much info in the -34
got the engine to run, the original exciter system is gone and in its place is a burned out aftermarket regulator, there is only 1.25 ohms resistance between the f- wire and common ground, .05 volts residual maybe something wrong there, wondering if i should put a ohms resistor on the f- lead, does make power if i attach the f+ and f- to a 12 volt battery
 

Guyfang

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got the engine to run, the original exciter system is gone and in its place is a burned out aftermarket regulator, there is only 1.25 ohms resistance between the f- wire and common ground, .05 volts residual maybe something wrong there, wondering if i should put a ohms resistor on the f- lead, does make power if i attach the f+ and f- to a 12 volt battery
Thats the good news. If you can excite it with 12 volts, that means the main gen is in order. If the wire harnes is not all hacked up, get an exciter. I saw one in the epay a while back.
 

Guyfang

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Well, I looked and it is gone. They do not come up often, and are gone fast. Also, do not forget to seurch under MEP-005A also. about 90% of the 15 kw parts fit the 30 kw gen sets also.

Did you look at the oshkosh web page?
 
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