Who other than delks sells used parts for an mep 005?

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Philratcliffe

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Florida
Delks had everything I need except the small current transformer. I am looking for another vendor that sells used parts for an mep 005. Thanks in advance for any info guys
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Delks doesn’t have the current transformer pn
30554-72-2230
Mine was melted and a tar like substance has melted into a pool around it. I removed it re molded the tar like substance and encapsulated it with JB weld to keep the tar from running out when it gets warm. I have four 005s I recently purchased all of them are now running well and making power. The unit with the iffy transformer only makes power when I hold the start switch in to start position. As soon as I release the switch it stops making power. What might I look for. When this would happen on my 002s i usually had a on open or corrsosion in the generator head. Thanks in advance for any help
 
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Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
the Current transformer seems to be working properly tho as it makes 220v and 60hz if I hold the start switch in the start position. Thanks again for any ideas on what to look for
 
Last edited:

flydude92

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Waterville, Ohio
Delks doesn’t have the current transformer pn
30554-72-2230
Mine was melted and a tar like substance has melted into a pool around it. I removed it re molded the tar like substance and encapsulated it with JB weld to keep the tar from running out when it gets warm. I have four 005s I recently purchased all of them are now running well and making power. The unit with the iffy transformer only makes power when I hold the start switch in to start position. As soon as I release the switch it stops making power. What might I look for. When this would happen on my 002s i usually had a on open or corrsosion in the generator head. Thanks in advance for any help

I can't find that number in my TM's.

Do you have a page number to a figure pointing to the transformer you need or
as Guy suggested an NSN number?

Brian
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
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Figure 21, item 40.
Have you checked this transformer IAW the TM? You will find it in all probability bad. If it is not functional, you set will not make power. If you read the TM, on how the gen set is suposed to work, you will see that the Main gen is excited on start up with 24 volts. Thats why your gen set produces voltage so long as you keep S2 in the start position. When you release S2, the Exciter is supposed to take over the function of excitation, and this transformer is a part of that function.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Sorry tool so long to reply.
Yes. It’s number 40 on page number 84
The number I posted is the number in the outside of the transformer itself
I just got my parts Manual and see the NSN part number system

Guyfang. I dont have much skill in electrical diagnostics and do not know how to read schematics.
My understanding is transformers step up or down electrical voltage. So if 24v dc excites the generator to start making power what does this transformer do. It has two large wires that make one loop of the hole in the center. Does the transformer increase the voltage in the wires that pass thru it? But isn’t that alternating current? Does the initial excitement happen with dc current and then switch to ac current to continue exciting it after it starts making electricity? Due to the transformer being all melted I assume the primary windings had their insulation burned off. What could have caused the transformer to melt down like this?
I will swap in a transformer from one of my other 095s to confirm it is the problem. Thanks so much for your help guyfang. I will let you know what happens after I swap transformers.
Thanks again for all your help gentlemen!
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Wow this is really weird. The other mep 005 that came with my rowpu only has a few hours on it since the engine was rebuilt and the rowpu was serviced. The genset makes stable power and all the gauges seems to work but not sure on percentage of load guage as I haven’t run a load on it.
I think tomorrow I will switch from my two 002s to one 005.
When I went to remove the current transformer from a generator that is making power to try it in the 005 that isn’t making electricity, I did find rodent damage on this unit!
One of the small wires (there are two that attach to imbedded nuts on the two sides of the current transformer) was eaten thru and is missing a few inches and two of the small wires that attach to the top of the next transformer (number 32 transformer and bracket) are eaten thru as well. Yet this generator makes electricity
The unit that isn’t making power it starts right up and runs well. When I push the switch to the start position it makes power but not full power. It makes between 63 and 135 ish the voltage is moving all over the place. One thing I did just discover is that the batteries have 25volts but I’m only getting 18 volts to the front panel, start switch, and gauges.
I have 25volts at the emergency shut off breaker and it looks like that wire goes into the special relay box.
What could cause me to not have battery voltage at the control panel. Should I swap the special relay boxes to see if that the trouble?
Any idea what I should look at next? Thanks for any suggestions.

On my 002s when they would not make power I had corrosion in the generator head and had to have it rewound should I remove the generator head and check it for corrosion or an open or short? Thanks again for any insight.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Hi guyfang, I read the Tm. The current transformer number 40 with the single hole in it only comes into play during parallel operation evidently. I repaired the three mouse chewed cables in the unit I took the transformer out of to put in the unit not making power.
Still not making power.
My mechanic said he doesn’t think the exciter circuit should be 24 volts but 18 to 20 volts.
I don’t appear to be getting voltage to the exciter circuit. I removed the special relay box everything inside looks good with the exception of a fusable link that is made into a pair of brass mounting block. The link is blown but instead of replacing the assembly it appears a new fusable link is now bolted across the top of the brass block completing the circuit.
I was thinking of going right off the battery to excite the generator to see if I can get it to produce 208volts
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Hi guyfang, I read the Tm. The current transformer number 40 with the single hole in it only comes into play during parallel operation evidently. I repaired the three mouse chewed cables in the unit I took the transformer out of to put in the unit not making power.
Still not making power.
My mechanic said he doesn’t think the exciter circuit should be 24 volts but 18 to 20 volts.
I don’t appear to be getting voltage to the exciter circuit. I removed the special relay box everything inside looks good with the exception of a fusable link that is made into a pair of brass mounting block. The link is blown but instead of replacing the assembly it appears a new fusable link is now bolted across the top of the brass block completing the circuit.
I was thinking of going right off the battery to excite the generator to see if I can get it to produce 208volts

The "Fuseable link" is the Ammeter shunt.

For the excitor to work, 24 volts are sent to S9-1 contacts. One set of S9-1 allows the starter to turn the emgine over. At a certin RPM, the S9-1 reverses. That allows the other part of S9-1 to energize K5, the field Flash relay. And yes, it takes 24 volts. Try taking the S/P relay box out of the gen set that works, and put it in the one that dosnt work. Then try it. Also make sure all C-plugs on the S/P relay box are tight, as well as the S9 switch, as well as the A11, static excitor.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
We put 24 volts to the exciter circuit today and the generator made 220volts. So the generator is good we aren’t getting 24 volts to the exciter where the two exciter wires go into the two wire bulkhead connector just above the generator head we have the box out and have inspected it. Everything looks good. We were looking for the A11 relay. BUt haven’t located it yet. To be honest due to the one transformer being fried I’m worried if I swap in the box from the other genset I might damage it. I am afraid to take the risk. I have three good running working units. One to power my hotel and a back up and one to power the rowpu system.
Let me try to trace the current through the system. I’m looking for a spare for all the boxes and there is a guy in enay selling a non running unit. I trying to work a deal for him
To remove the parts I want and ship only those items to me.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Here is what we did, we put the s/p exciter box into another genset and now it won’t make power-nor excite the generator. We swapped them back and it is making electricity. So the problem is definitely in the s/p relay box. Any idea what in the Box might be the culprit? Thanks so much for your help. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate it!
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
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The A5 card in the S/P relay box, has several relays on it. One is the K5. Take the A5 card off the wall of the box and look at the back side for wire traces burnt off. Look at the front side for burn marks.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
Hi guy. My error. I thought the status exciter and voltage regulator assm box was the s/p box. The exciter box is the box we installed in another generator that was working properly. When we installed it that unit would not make electricity. We we reinstalled the units exciter box it made electricity again so the problem appears to be in this box as the problem follows this box. The original box makes a clicking sound. We installed the working exciter box in the unit that isn’t making electricity and it works perfect. So the problem is Definitely the exciter box.
We are going to perform the test outlined in the Tm now. I will let you know what we find. We visually inspected the circuit board and it appears to be in good shape with no burned spots or any cooked components. Thanks again.
 

Guyfang

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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
That's why its always a good idea to refer to parts by there real name. The Special Relay box is the A27.

Normaly I would say to look at the Voltage Regulator.

The Static Exciter is the A11. When you take the cover off, you will see a circuit card inside. That's the the volt regulator. The components for the A11 are getting very hard to find. There is someone in the forum, PEAPVP is his name here. Send him a PM and ask what he might want to test/repair the A11. Or find someone who is good at repairing such things. The -34 TM tells you how to test everything, and its not all that hard. BUT, and this is the big BUT, test equipment. You need more then a multimeter.
 

Philratcliffe

Member
132
1
18
Location
Florida
We after closer examination found that the CR 16 & 17 are damaged. The outer body is cracked an missing almost half of the outer painted area. Do you think that might be the problem? Are they part of the exciter circuitry?
What additional testing equipment would I need to test all aspects of the units performance?
I only see the entire voltage regulator part number not the individual current rectifiers listed in the parts manual. Where can I buy them?
Thanks again for your help
I will reach out to PEAPVP and. See if he has the CRs. I will check with my partner and see when he is headed to the states to possible take this with him.
They are very weak on electrical repairs in Colombia as they just don’t have the parts available and when they can find them they are poorly made china imports
 
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