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yes, the adaptor validator points to a problem between the PC and the DPA.
did you download and install the “legacy” drivers from the Dearborn website?
https://www.dgtech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/DPAInstall.exe
The steering wheel issue is common as the military locks them up with a chain. If it’s driving straight then simply pop the center cap to reveal the nut and remove the steering wheel with a common puller and clock it correctly. You can also take that time to inspect the turn signal canceling...
oh darn, I could test the whole alt for you but the shipping would be pretty spendy..
Have you tried wiring up a small set of batteries directly to the alternator? If you do this carefully it will completely rule out any faulty wiring or other issues in the truck.
I usually give a little tap to my pivot pin after the cab is at the balance point and it rests on that strap. I feel this is pretty safe as gravity isn’t going to give out any time soon.
OK I understand now, thanks. I usually keep my bench test batteries topped off so my alternator doesn't stall out my test motor. I will drag them down a little bit and then re-test with a clamp meter and see if my older regulator outputs consistent current. I want to make sure I can catch a...
This is where you lose me a bit. If the batteries are at 28.8V and they aren't taking a charge, doesn't that point to a problem within the batteries? If the batteries were drawing current and the alternator wasn't producing, wouldn't the voltage drop?
I've watched this video like 5 times now, looks perfectly normal. what exactly is the problem?
I tested a never used NOS '07 regulator yesterday on the bench with an identical setup to yours, and it behaves the same.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l_WHBP6oS8lKzLiPA75US29vJWc_PIAD/view