Recent content by Ray70

Can you elaborate on the DC power conditions. Sounds like you have the set running but have no DC power at F1 or F2 but there is power at the DC circuit breaker, and the fault indicator panel isn't working? I assume you started it normally from S1 ??

Regarding the coolant recovery tank, you can look around on this site for details but the best solution is to go on Ebay and buy a coolant recovery tank for a late 80's Suzuki Samurai. It will fit right in place of the original, all you have to do is modify the hose slightly because the...

If you're in need of accessory parts for your trailered generator, send me a PM with what you are looking for. I have brand new ground rod sets, fuel hoses ( still coiled up) , pullers and drivers, ground clamps. and you wouldn't believe how many sledge hammers and rod pullers I've sent to the...

I don't think the 2x2 would suffice. Your fuel pumps and Fuel solenoid will probably draw more than that and slowly deplete the batteries, not to mention the need to recharge the batteries from the start up draw. I'm sure someone had done a load test on the DC system and can post the typical...

The shims don't adjust the amount of fuel being delivered, they adjust the pump timing. Rotating the pumps within the block adjusts the amount of fuel being supplied by altering the position of that slash cut notch in the plunger.

Also, don't rely on the accuracy of the machine's temp gage. Typically they have a 180* thermostat but the gage tends to read 20+* hotter than the machine really is.

Precisely why everyone should keep a "Spare" generator on hand! It is soooo... much easier to diagnose issues and swap parts to verify! Green Machine Fever at it's finest!

That's your problem! That is the fuse holder for the alternator, supposed to be a 30A glass tube fuse in there, your typical 1 1/4" automotive style. I bet @Light in the Dark or @kloppk have a source available for a new holder, unless you see a gray cap with 2 little metal tabs sticking out...

Pull the top cover and get the injector(s) out. Reattach the hard line by moving the line off to the side. You should have 4 finely atomized mists of fuel spraying radially out from the tip of each injector as you crank it over. You will probably need to bleed out any air in the lines if you...

Seeing that he mentions needing to figure out how to get the injectors out I'd say he has not tested them. I think he removed the lines and just verified fuel flow through the lines.

That's the % Power meter, his issue is with the current meter. The TM is available right here on this site, go to the top, click on TM then get to the Generator section and then find your machine.

Do you have the TM's for your machine? I may be mistaken, but I think ( like the 004-007, it may only function when paralleling 2 units together. % power works in standalone and % Current in parallel.... perhaps, but the TM will tell you for sure.

:shrugs:I went back and re read like 4 times trying to figure out if I had missed something.....

Yes, the pin in the metering pump shuts off the fuel completely when the rack rotates it fully, that is how the machine shuts down. You will need to pull the cover off to remove the injector. If you have trouble getting the injector out, the thread on the top is metric, same as some lug nuts. I...