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Thanks for the tips. I thought I had it close enough but turns out you really do have to get it right on the teeth for a good signal. Makes a big difference in the shifting.

I'm using the same method. Alternator is fixed. Still don't have a good rpm signal. Also I did install an auxiliary cooler and trans temp still likes to creep up to 210. I've noticed that since the transmission likes to cruise in overdrive out of tcc lock up (because it's hilly here and m1010 is...

i believe you are correct on the alternator, seems like ive heard that that is the one that always goes out. Im not sure on my rpms yet. my dakota digital isnt sending a very good signal to the TCI. I was gonna try and use the high output side of the DSL and see if the TCI would pick it up...

ok so finally got the tci situation resolved and was able to drive my m1010 today. needless to say i got the big smile on my face when the torque converter locked up and i was cruising at 75 lol. i did discover that i have a bad alternator voltage regulator to the front battery which i will have...

I always recommend going with the factory fill.

I knew it would be a close fit and wondered if they had different thickness gaskets. Where did you find the .060

Hey finally something you and I can agree on :)

OP, did you wire the dsl-2 directly to the TCI or did you have to run it through the rpm module first?

2000$ is way high. And I should hope that every rebuild you do gets new bushings, "every transmission builder knows that" :P

This unit doesn't even power up. The module that is, the interface just says no comm.

so i got my tci unit in this morning and got it all hooked up and guess what, it doesnt work. so what do i do, i call the tci tech assist phone number. but all i get is some guy with an attitude and no assistance. I was told to send the unit back to whom i bought it from and thats all. well...

Too late for me on the TCI info lol. Question for the OP, how much did you have to lengthen/shorten your drive shafts? It looks like 2.5 inchs, does that sound right? I'm taking mine in to be reworked in the am. Thanks

I went the tci route. If you haven't youtubed how the tci unit works I would suggest doing so. I really enjoyed seeing it.

Thanks for the info. I tried to welding two of the small brackets together that the shifter rod goes through on the transmission, it works on some gears but won't return to park. Looks like the rod still needs a little bit of length added.

Looking through the pictures I'm not seeing the exact mods made to the shifter linkage. I've gotten my 4l80 bolted up and getting the controller in tomorrow. Now just gotta tie up all the loose ends.

Awesome info for the thread thanks! I ended up using a 0.530 freeze plug from Oreillys for 58 cents. I also retained it with retaining compound into the case. Again having not looked up what kind of pressure is one the other side of the plug (shouldn't be very much) this should work good. Again...

Yup first child and next steel soldiers gear head.

Like I said "birth of my son" won't be at my shop for over a week to be able to get you pics of my seal installers. So have patience and thanks for the congrats :)

Found this while awaiting the birth of my son... A bit pricey but would make a clean install. Any thoughts? http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-215-97-Original-Equipment-Driveshaft/dp/compatibility-chart/B000EQRSVY

Yes seems like I just read a similar thread last night. Not sure how true it is but it's definitely plausible depending on the oil passage that it's tied to, so I am gonna try and do the same and find a freeze plug.