Recent content by rickf

Looking closer at that center pic it looks like there are wires and terminals down behind the one I mentioned and the screw I can barely see is rusted from heat, I will bet that was where the fire came from. You really need to go over all that wiring with a fine tooth comb. Now I am going to...

Mice pee and crap where they live (Think massive corrosion) so all of those connections will need to be taken apart, cleaned and reinstalled. Every one of them. And you need to check that one front and center in the middle pic and probably replace the terminal on the end.

You could have but the results in the end are the same. Anytime you are dealing with people in a commercial setting you need to have all your ducks in a row. AND all the required inspections. This way you are covered if something does happen. In this case your question for us has been answered...

Considering that you are using this in a commercial application with people touching the vehicles you really need to go by code. I would get in touch with the local code enforcement people and also refer the the NEC book. No matter what, Code Enforcement has the final say. Keep in mind that if...

The start on demand is usually a DC thing. Plow motors, tailgates and that type of thing. For industrial power equipment the pump will be running all the time. The pump will not deadhead due to open center valves. Think about a log splitter or a tractor and loader. Pump is always running as long...

Is that a capacitor start motor? If so the inrush will be a little lighter. I am guessing the baler is hydraulic so all the motor is running is a hydraulic pump. With all the controls in neutral at startup I would not think there would be a huge current draw to start.

Thanks Ray, I will look at it tomorrow. I ran it today for a 1/2 hour to get it up to temp to be sure the oil pressure stayed good and the vent louvres opened. All was good and I got the frequency set and voltage adjusted. Also got that monster switch set right on the Gen1/Gen2 control box.

Just went out to check the wiring and all is well, spotlessly clean in there also. I will check the voltage tomorrow, what kind of reading should I see on the DC side with it running? I am assuming that it would not show frequency on a handheld standard meter.

Thanks guys, for that price I guess it is worth a try. I am going to open up the control box first and make sure all the wires are connected and tight. But I believe you are right because the gauge does glitch over when I first start but then does nothing.

You created a monster Carnac! :ROFLMAO:

I will look it up tomorrow, I know I should look up in the manual where the transducer is but can you clue me in and save me some searching?

Are the transducers available at a reasonable price? If not I will simply go aftermarket and bypass the transducer.

I just picked up a 003 with 8 hours on the clock. This thing appears to have been mothballed after testing since the convenience outlets were taped over, fuel tank and filters were bone dry and clean besides some rust from condensation. Once I soaked the pump in acetone and changed all of the...

If you go to the top of the generator forum , on the right top you will see a button that says "post thread". This is where you start a new thread. If you go to the top of this thread you will see in small type about the thread title the list of the forums where this is located. Just click on...

That was a subtle hint from Guyfang about starting a new thread for this so I will wait for that thread to say anymore.